Toowoomba to Bingara

Today was to be a trek of about 360 kms. We hit the road at 09:30 after hitting Coles  a little before 09:00to stock the fridge and drinks cabinet.

I suddenly realized that Bingara is in NSW which is an hour ahead of Queensland, so we actually had an hour less than we originally thought we’d have to get there. Bloody Australian time zones can be tricky.

There’s a lookout in Toowoomba but the clouds were on the deck last night and this morning so the lookout was pointless. We just headed out.

FloodwaysWe drove through some annoying rain en route, which was pleasantly rural, albeit a little jiggly, but with little in the way of traffic. You never drive a road with this little traffic at home. At frequent intervals we crossed “floodways” which are low points across the road accompanied by depth markers. Happily, though we’d had some rain, we had no floods.

We crossed into NSW at Texas [go figure]. The changed time zone will give us lighter evenings which have been a little odd.

GoreSoaking up a little Ozzie rural culture en route, we stopped at a fuel station/rest stop at Gore [blink and you miss it]. The culture involved was a home made steak and kidney pie, which we shared for lunch. ‘T was very good. I’d asked for short black coffees but we got long black coffees. No matter.

At a hardware store in Warialda we tried to buy a sink plug but this proved to be too small. Still no functioning sink.

Arriving in Bingara, the office at the campsite appeared closed so Francine rang the number. The lady was in the office – she’d forgotten to change the sign. It’s a pleasantly rural campsite.

Busby II has an outside BBQ (actually two gas rings) on which we cooked Roo Burgers. They were excellent, accompanied by some salad.

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Posted in 2024-01 Australia

Teething Troubles

It was pouring with rain overnight and during the morning at our hosts’. I had trouble reversing up a wet, gravel-covered hump of a slope in a 3500kg Busby II. I apologized for gouging up the drive. On the next attempt I broke a branch off a shrub. I apologized for that, too. Busby II has no reversing camera and my mirror usage clearly lacked something. Maybe if the ground would just open up and swallow me …

I’d tried turning on the gas but discovered that the fridge doesn’t seem to work on gas and that the hot water system ONLY works on gas, not electricity. Bloody brilliant! Hot water not on electricity is OK ‘cos there’s always gas but if you go off grid without an Electric Hook Up I presume you have no fridge. How is this sensible in Australia? I tried phoning the on-road helpline but that just rings waiting for an operative. Why am I not surprised?

With wi-fi “at home” we investigated setting up a toll tag account but that was going to grab A$25 which we probably would not use so discounted that. There’s a number to call within 3 days to pay if you DO hit a toll so we’ll go with that but programmed the satnav to avoid tolls. There shouldn’t be many on our route through outback New South Wales and Victoria.

After my two embarrassments we eventually loaded the van, bad fond farewells, and set sail for Toowoomba some 90-minutes distant. There is a Toowoomba bypass which IS a toll road but we clambered off before the toll section.

Francine had booked the campsite and had a confirmation email but did they have any record of our booking? No! Brilliant again.Happily they weren’t full and we got a pitch. The campsite is best described as utilitarian – it’s not one you’d sit on for the fun of it.

We plugged in and the aircon came on. Great, we had power. We started flipping switches on for other facilities: water pump, hot water, lights, reading lights. Nothing came on – no water flowed, the toilet didn’t flush.

Clearly we had 240V ‘cos the aircon was working. Either a master fuse/circuit breaker was broken or a master switch wasn’t on. A helpful video showed it to be the latter; there was a master switch which we managed to locate and which proved to be off. Wouldn’t it have been nice if we’d been told or, better, if we’d been given the van with it on? We turned it to “on” and life became bmuch better.

Pseudagrion aureofrons, ToowoombaThis campsite was probably my best chance of odos on the road, being next to a series of ponds linked by a stream. We wandered off on an odo hunt. There had been heavy rain a day or two before and a bridge was strewn with aquatic vegetation. Happily the waters had now receded and the bridge waw usable again. I’d looked on iNaturalist before arriving and had a target species, the utterly delightful Gold-fronted Riverdamsel (Pseudagrion aureofrons). I could not believe my luck when I spotted one perching on a stick close to the bridge. I’d seen this species once before but not with such good access. I was a very happy camper.

We were having a pre-prandial when swarms of parrakeets began roosting in the trees on the campsite, chattering constantly. It was like a parrot murmuration. It that wasn’t enough, a stream of Fruit Bats began flying by the campsite. An unbroken stream of them passed for maybe 15 minutes. The numbers were incredible, there must have been 10s of thousands. A few broke away from the stream to fly over us, A lady on another pitch saw us staring up and asked if we were worried. “Not at all”, we said, “just in awe of the spectacle”. How friendly of her.

We debated doing dinner on the campsite communal area but it looked a bit busy so, being our usual unsociable selves we chose to do steak and salad in Busby II. Our rump steak was very good, tasty and tender.

Time to clear up. The bloody sink plug doesn’t fit. How v=can they g=ve us a van with a sink plug that doesn’t fit? Now we can’t wash up in Busby II. We’re saving the washing up to use the camp facilities in the morning.

Someone will not be getting a very favourable review.

Posted in 2024-01 Australia

Collecting Busby II

In 2017 we had visited Australia for three weeks before flying over to New Zealand for the classic 4-week camper van tour. Our vehicle was a Mercedes Sprinter van conversion rented from Maui in Aukland. It was a shock to get used to but we came to love it. Since it looked a bit alike a bus, we nicknamed it Busby.

For this road trip in Australia we have again gone with Maui and rented Busby’s sister ship, though this one has the luxury of air-conditioning. Naturally, we’ve tagged it Busby II.

After a morning with our hosts hitting the shops for some supplies to get us started, we headed to the airport to drop off our Avis rental car. From there it was a A$32 cab ride to the Maui rental depot to collect Busby II.

The flat-roofed collection shack was steamingly hot: the main aircon had broken and the substitute aircon was hardly working; switching on extra units blew the fuses.. Collection at Aukland 2017 had been a nightmare of a wait and here we had a similar wait though not quite as bad. Actually, it’s three waits, first to get booked in, then to have a what is and is not covered conversation with electronic forms to sign, then to be “shown” the van. Quite what the purpose of the online check-in is, I don’t know. Well, I suppose some of the details on the iPad form were already completed.

I asked about tolls. This was not as easy as with the Avis rental car. We could open an account with Linkt, or just pay retrospectively if we bumped into a toll – I didn’t really expect to –  by calling a number; you have three days to pay. What we couldn’t do was open an account right now and we had to drive back “home” which would normally be through tolls.

We’d made the mistake of saying we were somewhat familiar with the vans, having something similar at home and having rented Busby I in NZ. This was a mistake. The handover guy proceeded to tell us next to nothing, other than pointing us to an in-flight information card including the electric cable, gas cylinder and brace position.

He did show us how to make up the bed, after I asked, though most of the time he didn’t seem that familiar with the van. The trouble is, these vans all vary slightly according to vintage and specifics can get confused.

Mr. Handover asked if we wanted toilet chemical. “Duh! Err, yes”.

He asked if we wanted outside table and chairs. “Yes please”. He went to fetch the extras.

I asked about the fridge which he said switched over automatically.

“Do we have satnav?” “Yes.” Excellent.

Eventually we were let loose. Since we had no toll account, we programmed the satnav to avoid tolls and took the scenic, traffic-light-strewn route back through Brisbane to Camira. It really wasn’t that bad … on a Saturday and it was more interesting than a motorway.

We made it back to our hosts without any problems and turned into the drive so they could have a look round and a poke and prod.

The electric hook-up looked like a domestic Australian plug and David offered to connect us to get the fridge cold for our morning departure. BUT … the mains connector was actually a bit larger, 15 Amp as opposed to 10 Amp. So, we couldn’t precool the fridge. No biggie.

It was our hosts birthday so G&Ts were calling loudly. We surrendered to the call for our last night in Brisbane.

Posted in 2024-01 Australia

Queens Park, Ipswich

To clarify, that is Ipswich, Queensland, Australia as opposed to Ipswich, Suffolk, UK. Right, that’s cleared that up.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur hosts’ house is flown over every evening by Fruit Bats leaving their roost to go foraging. These are spectacular creatures, so he decided to take us to Queens Park where there is an enormous roost. In and around Nerima Gardens the trees are completely filled with roosting Fruit Bats. An information board implied that there might be three different species co-existing here.  There are many thousands of them. The picture struggles to convey the scale but each of the dark drops beneath the branches in this shot [go on, squint] is a Fruit Bat.

Pteropus scapulatus-247887With a bright blue sky [my favourite colour] behind a dark bat with its face in shadow, trying to get a detailed image requires picking the right subject in the right situation. Here’s an attempt. This is one of the Little Red Flying Foxes (Pteropus scapulatus). Cuddle, anyone?

Royal Spoonbill-247904There is a small wildlife area with caged subjects, some of which were quite interesting. I was particularly taken by these very haughty looking spoonbills, appropriately, perhaps, called Royal Spoonbills (Platalea regia). Sadly, it’s captive but I simply couldn’t resist it.

JX247897-Enhanced-NRThere was some water, too, where there were dragonflies which were decidedly not captive. The temperature was up in the 30s so they were very active. There weren’t any unusual species that I could see but I did manage to snag an Australian Emerald (Hemicordulia australiae) when it hovered in front of me.

In the afternoon, I was anxious to introduce Francine to the Mount Coot-tha Botanic Gardens, which I’d visited and loved on my first Australian dragonfly trip back in 2019. We got there in time for lunch in their very good café before seeing what we could find.

Rhyothemis graphiptera, Botanic gardens-Rhyothemis phyllis-247911There was plenty of activity but of the same clutch of about 10 suspects. All my previous visits to Australia have been in late November/early December. This is my first experience of late January so the species mix may well be different and more restricted. A couple of Flutterers posed reasonably, though: Yellow-striped Flutterer (Rhyothemis phyllis) and the Graphic Flutterer (Rhyothemis graphiptera).

Posted in 2024-01 Australia

Nature Begins at Home

We are staying with Francine’s first cousin once removed. Ya just gotta love this genealogy stuff. These are the lovely people who used to live in Singapore and played host to us in 2013 when we visited there with a side trip to Cambodia. They now live on a 1-acre lot in a suburb of Brisbane, Queensland.

Our rental car, incidentally, is a Renault Koleos. Whilst I was very grateful to have a satnav – given Brisbane roads life would’ve been much more uncertain without it – this cracked me up. Francine and I have been seeing Renault Koleos cars in France for several years and they sounded, to us, like a digestive tract problem. “Oh doctor, I’ve got a severe attack of koleos.” So, we refer to them as Renault Intestinal Complaints. At last I’ve got one, temporarily. It’s OK but rolls a bit round corners. It is yet to make me belch.

We beat the bounds of our hosts plot to see what we could find, largely to get some fresh air after being trapped in flying cigar tubes and terminal lounges for 30 hours. We were not disappointed.

Our hosts have five hens that live in an overnight hen house wittily labelled “Chicken Run”. The Chicken Run was playing host to a couple of interesting spiders.

St Andrew's Cross Spider-247874One spider was large and the abdominal pattern reminded me of our own Wasp Spider (Argiope bruennichi). Sure enough, a search showed this Ozzie cousin to be a St Andrew’s Cross Spider (Argiope keyserlingi). The zigzag weaving on the web, BTW, typical of Argiope species, is called a stabilimentum. The function of this is open to debate but one theory is that it helps stabilize their large web.

Uid Ozzie Spider-247875Close by was a much smaller spider, as yet unidentified by me. It looks as though it’s been taking lessons from it’s larger relative in that it, too, is holding its legs out in a St. Andrew’s Cross arrangement of pairs. I must seek help.

Harlequin Stinkbug-247828Continuing our way around the bounds, my eyes were suddenly drawn to the most colourfully marked Shield bug that I’ve ever seen. This character shone a brilliant metallic blue colour punctuated with bright red markings. It was utterly captivating. I can’t stand the American term for Shield bug, which is Stinkbug, but sadly that’s what the Aussies use. This is a Harlequin Stinkbug (Tectocoris diophthalmus). Well, a splendid creature deserves a splendid name (so let’s avoid the Stinkbug bit).

Posted in 2024-01 Australia

… to Kirrily

Boarding our second leg flight overnight to Adelaide went smoothly. I was anxious to check for row 4, curiously missing from the previous flight from London and, lo, there it was. Our ex-London aircraft was an Airbus A350 with no row 4 but the Adelaide bound aircraft was an Airbus A330 complete with row 4. Superstitions go only so far it seems.

KL to Adelaide is a 7-hour flight, mas o menos, but after our initial in-flight meal, this time I failed to get any sleep. “Bother”, said Pooh, irritatedly. We touched down at 08:25 Adelaide time.

QANTA Lounge AdelaideImmigration was a breeze – being amongst the first off the plane there were no long queues for the machines – and our bags, though they made us wait and wonder, did turn up. They were re-checked for  the next leg and we made our way to lounge #3, the QANTAS lounge. Sadly the bar doesn’t open until midday, after we board the next plane. They do, however, have a good barista.

For those who don’t know (including to some extent ourselves), Australia has some weird time zoning. Adelaide is now 30 minutes behind Sydney but 30 minutes ahead of Brisbane, whose clocks do not change. Brisbane, Queensland [QLD], is where we are heading to begin our visit.

We are not the only ones heading for Queensland; Queensland is also where tropical hurricane Kirrily is heading. We’ve flown away from storm Isha in the UK and are heading for hurricane Kirrily. Brilliant. You couldn’t write it, could you? Current predictions expect Kirrily to make landfall at Townsville in Far North Queensland [FNQ]. That’s some way north of Brisbane but, even if predictions are accurate, we’re almost bound to get some overspill.

Our QANTASLink flight took off on time [midday] and we touched down safely under cloudy skies in Brisbane. There seemed to be few bags checked on the internal flight and ours turned up promptly in the domestic terminal. I wondered if we’d have to go to international to find an Avis desk but happiness reigned when I found one very near the baggage carousel. Happiness soared even higher when the helpful agent found us a car with a built-in satnav, taking the stress out of finding our hosts.

There are toll roads (quite expensive ones) in Brisbane and it’s controlled by ANPR. The agent set our credit card up to make the process automatic [and less painful – we won’t have a clue how much it’s costing].

30-minutes through some heavy Brisbane traffic got us “home” to a reviving cup of tea.

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Posted in 2024-01 Australia

From Isha …

Today we fly, or are supposed to fly, from Heathrow terminal 4 to Kuala Lumpur. It will be our first taste of Malaysia Airlines. I say “supposed to” because, though the threat of snow may have receded, storm Isha is threatening havoc across most of the country. There are times when attempting to travel in winter in our climate seems a little like a gamble.

I’d agonized about how to get to the airport. Normally I’d drive and park but leaving the car out in an English winter for a month may flatten the battery,

The train option was quite appealing except for the struggling with baggage on the underground.

Our favourite local, and erstwhile reliable taxi company had been taken over but eventually I bit the bullet and booked with them. They did, at least, send a confirmation of the booking.

Our taxi driver did turn up right on the button at 16:00. He did not have a card machine, as was intended, but fortunately we scraped together the £95 fare. They’ll need a machine on the return trip – I’ve been cleaned out.

QATAR loungeWe arrived at T4 before 17:30, four hours ahead of our flight. Time to go and enjoy one of the posh lounges. Our check-in agent advised that the QATAR lounge might be better than the other option, Gulf Air.

We drank and nibbled the time away and eventually boarded. Fortunately the London area seemed less severely Isha’d than everywhere else and, after a 30 minute taxi and hold operation waiting for gusts to drop, we lifted off.

Row 5We settled into our seats: row 5. Curiously the seats in front of us were row 3. There was no row 4. Odd. I asked a steward about the missing row 4 but no explanation was forthcoming. Our streets often do not have house number 13 for superstitious twaddle and we wondered if something similar applied to 4 in the Malaysian culture. Curious; I must investigate. [Yep, just checked: the number 4 is not liked in Malaysia.]

After an Asian meal, we hit the lie-flat beds which are a boon – we both managed to sleep, though I had to remove the blanket ‘cos I was too hot. Oddly, on this Airbus A350, the centre aisle seats have no bins above them, which means that there is no air nozzle to open up above you either. I wonder why?

I came round with three hours to run and had some of an Asian breakfast but, in honesty, there’s a bit too much food when you’re inactive.

Golden LoungeIt’s now Monday evening (22nd) and we’re relaxing in the Malaysia Golden Lounge. I even had a wonderfully reviving shower in between G&Ts. How civilized.

Posted in 2024-01 Australia

A Winter Break

[This is a sort of test post to check out the new travel laptop, Francine’s old one having blown its red channel. This is Windows 11 – YIKES!]

I miss our long winter breaks in Spain tremendously since we sold Casa. Our original plan this year was to try a winter trip travelling around Spain in our new motor home – the ferry to northern Spain was booked – but we changed our minds.

It’s been a long time since Francine saw her brother, who very sensibly lives in Australia, and, as a winter destination, that wouldn’t eat into our “90 days out of 180 days” Schengen limit imposed by bastard Brexit. So, the Spanish ferry has been shifted to September and we’re doing a month in Oz instead. I love Australia and its 347 species of odonata.

Here’s the plan.

Francine has a cousin (actually a 1st cousin once removed) in Brisbane so we begin with 5 days with them. I should get some dragonfly action there. Phase two is a Maui motor home trip taking 12 days to drive an inland route through the outback down to Melbourne; insect action here will probably be scant. The motor home will be a sister ship to good ol’ Busby in our 2017 New Zealand trip, so this one is bound to inherit the name. In Melbourne we swap to a car to make nuisances of ourselves with Francine’s brother for two weeks in Victoria, close to the New South Wales border.

We fly with Malaysian Airlines to Kuala Lumpur on Sunday 21st, on to Adelaide on Monday 22nd, then take an internal flight up to Brisbane on Tuesday 23rd.. We have four hours between each leg so I’m hoping we might actually make our connections. [On my 2022 trip to Oz, QANTAS contrived to get me to Sydney two hours late and I missed my Cairns connecting flight.]

We have a taxi booked for 16:00 tomorrow destined for Terminal 4.

Fingers crossed.

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Posted in 2024-01 Australia

The Last Supper

We spent our very leisurely last morning at the Amboise camping municipal, including a last wander across the bridge over La Loire to pick up a baguette and some paté for lunch. Some form of historical event was happening in the adjacent field but we didn’t distract ourselves with that.

We hit the road at about midday for an unhurried drive up to Falaise, stopping for our lunch en route, where there is a camper van friendly parking area beneath the walls of William the Conqueror’s castle. From Falaise it would be about 45 minutes to the ferry port at Ouistreham.

Arriving at Falaise we found that the parking area was quite busy and some barriers had been put in place to cordon a small area off. We did find a parking spot, though. The cordoned off area held a small assembly of old tractors.

PXL_20230930_135141024-01The event that was going on was an autumn street fair. We’d been looking forward to a relaxing beer or two at a quiet little local bar in one square but the population of Falaise was milling about the squares and half the population of Falaise seemed to be in our quiet little bar. A band of jolly minstrels entertained them.

We wandered further and passed a couple of other bars – same story, no room at the inn. Curiously, with all this potential custom about, there were a number of would-be suitable establishments closed. Why miss out on this bonanza?

Back at the first square we found a street stall which had some trestle tables and beer. Excellent. We sat down to refresh. Francine had noticed something I’d missed, a sign offering “Andouillete et frites”. I’m a sucker for andouillete. Francine hates it. I resisted for a while but, as time marched on towards leaving for the ferry, I would be faced with a boring menu in the port or eating too late on the ferry. That did it, gimme some.

AndouilleteSo, what is an andouillette? Well, in simple terms it’s a chitterling/chitlin sausage. What this means is that, in essence, you mince up some pig’s guts [small intestines] and stuff it into … some pigs guts [a.k.a. a sausage skin]. So, pigs guts in pigs guts, then? Yes, absolutely, and in my opinion it’s very tasty and something that you simply don’t get in the UK. At a restaurant near the Dordogne, many years ago, I ordered andouillette and the waitress really didn’t want to serve it to me – “ze English do not like andouillette”. “Pas de problem”, I assured her, “je connais l’andouillette”.

So, this was my last supper in France for 2023 before boarding our ferry home and very good it was too. I usually buy an andouillette and cook it myself but, because Francine doesn’t like it, it gets a bit difficult. This was probably the last of my French “must haves” for this year. I really need to make a list for next time and not leave it to the last minute. I have a new item to add to my list: crepinette, a kind of sausage meat wrapped in caul fat. The closest I could get in terms of translation was a faggot but how many Brits eat faggots these days? I did used to buy something in Spain called figatelle (sp?) which seemed faggot-like. “Pass me the snails, would you, please?”

Why are the British such wimps when it comes to food? I am constantly amazed at the stark change in availability of typical food stuffs that is occasioned by a national border. I half get it with a border like the English Channel but not the change over the Spanish-French border. Our typical shopping trolley in Spain contained very different items from that in France. Similarly, ‘t was different in Holland compared to France. Still, that’s the interest of travel, isn’t it?

So, that’s it for another year. Back on your heads.

Posted in 2023-09 France

Back to the Beginning

Devotees of the Scandi-drama, The Bridge, may remember the haunting theme tune, Hollow Talk, which finishes on the line, “goes back to the beginning”. If you aren’t a devotee, then I recommend that you become one and watch it.

Going back to the beginning is what we’re doing. We spent the first night of this trip at Amboise and we have returned to it now for our final two nights. The reasoning is fairly simple: we needed a campsite that is still open at the end of September, within striking distance of the ferry at Ouistreham. Since Friday is one of two market days in Amboise, we could get one last dose of French market fun on Friday before completing our journey home which, courtesy of the idyll of Hérisson, I now don’t want to do. Night #1 at Le-Puy-en-Velay was a blip.

PXL_20230902_130538569-01The site at Amboise is also a camping municipal but it’s a very big one with over 400 pitches. It is perfectly situated to walk into town and to the market. This time we went for an open, sunny pitch instead of a shaded one. We most likely won’t be seeing the sun very much after this.

The evening was exceptionally still with hardly a breath of wind. Whilst sitting and making sure that I could still get my swallowing coordination wrong choking on another can of beer, I heard a mechanical noise. The noise was pretty constant and unmoving. It sounded like a fan. “Ah ah”, I thought, “I think I know what that is.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASure enough, after a few minutes the envelope of a hot air balloon appeared behind the trees to the rear of the campsite. The fan is used to inflate the balloon before the gas burners are ignited to create lift. Soon, the gas burner roared and the balloon lifted off. There were actually three other balloons much higher floating silently above us.

OK, sort of ready for the journey home.

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Posted in 2023-09 France