Assault on Andorra

… on foot, that is.

Having spent a v. hot day a few days ago discovering the relative cool (24°C/75°F) of the Soulcem barrage (dam) in the Vicdessos valley, we fell in love with the place. It’s a stunningly picturesque dead-end valley that bumps into the borders of Spain and Andorra which, typically, are on the high points, rising to around 2900m/9500ft, that surround the valley. Dead-end, that is, except for a few footpaths including a GR, a Grande Randonnée (long distance footpath), into Andorra. The col (pass) is at about 2500m/8200ft.

Another stinky-hot day was in prospect chez nous so we thought we’d return to Soulcem for some more soul-cleansing scenery and more cooling altitude to investigate the GR. I couldn’t go without a camera though because we’re getting into Apollo butterfly season and I’ve never seen one. I lightened the load by taking one wildlife lens, and Francine did likewise by taking just the scenery lens. We then promptly put our loads back up with 750ml water each. Following a leisurely start and 1½hrs driving, we didn’t arrive at Soulcem and begin walking until midday.

Streams criss-crossed the high valley Franco jumps a stream GRs in France are marked with red and white rectangle markers. We had no trouble following the lower sections ‘cos we’d done it before on our first visit. Thereafter, though, the GR fooled us by having us walk on the west of the valley rather than along the eastern track we had half expected. This was a beautiful walk, we even found a pool acting as home to a population of red damselflies, but I couldn’t help but wonder what the GR’s plan was for having us cross the various streams of snow melt water to get back to the east side where Andorra lay. Turns out there was no plan; the GR simply crossed streams and, not being correctly equipped for fording such things, we scratched our heads. After much searching further upstream, we eventually managed our way across using a combination of jumping and stepping on strategically placed stones.

Andorra is to the leftPart way up on the trackWe’d made it back to the track on the eastern side of the valley but, with our upstream detours of about ½km, had completely lost the GR markers. The track, however, zigzagged its way up the mountain in the correct general direction. We couldn’t see anything resembling a footpath behind us so we so we set off along the track. After about 1½kms/1ml of reasonably gentle hairpin bends we spied a red and white GR marker cutting off the track and going, effectively, straight up. On the opposite side of the track we spotted a couple clambering up the path we had been unable to see – the way we should have come. “Bother (or words to that effect), that’s where the GR is!” It came very steeply up the side of the valley where we had failed to see a footpath.

GR way markers Time was marching on considerably faster than we were. The GR continued to insist that we ford streams. Just to rub it in, one marker was painted atop a rock right in the centre of a stream. Nice! By 3:30PM, the gradient was steep, the going heavy and the end, Andorra,  was still not in sight. Though the temperature was only about 25°C/77°F, we were getting uncomfortably low on precious water. The mountain streams were probably safe to drink but there were horses even up here so who knows. Discretion being the better part of valour, we decided to call it a day and just enjoy our remaining water on the downhill walk back. This time we stuck to the GR and it certainly was steep.

I’d go back for another shot but:

  1. with an earlier start;
  2. with 2 litres of water each;
  3. with walking poles;
  4. without the extra 2 kms detour;
  5. without the camera.

I still haven’t seen an Apollo. 🙁

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In for a Good Cause

IMG_6540Salomon_TAs_ Last year while travelling in France I was developing my usual cracked heels problem from sun and sandals (without socks!). Francine, having somehow managed to drag me into a sports shop, spotted some helpful looking shoes called Techamphibians by Salomon. They looked useful because they were a complete shoe, offering heel protection, but were made of a fine mesh which should be quite cool. Actually they were relatively high tech shoes supposedly designed for river guides, or some such: they contained no material that would absorb water; they had a Kevlar cable instead of laces; they allowed water to drain out of them. They were on sale. I bought a pair. My heals improved.

Another hot day was in the offing today – that is, after all, why we are here. Having sheltered once already in the Pyrenees, this time we decided to shelter in Les Montagnes Noires (the Black Mountains) a little north of Carcassonne. Les Montagnes Noires are the source of the water used to top up the Canal du Midi. The water is fed down via La Rigole, a purpose built small canal, which offers a shaded and very pleasant walking/cycling environment. We set off intending to visit La Prise d’Alzeau north of Saissac. This is where La Rigole begins its journey to the Canal du Midi.

We found a shaded picnic spot near a cute stone bridge about 3kms from La Prise and started a picnic before our wander. Pretty soon my baguette was interrupted when Francine spotted several splendidly colourful Beautiful Demoiselles flitting about near the bridge; sandwich instantly dropped in favour of camera.

IMG_7308Franco_paddles_ I soon noticed that these delightful damselflies always sat directly facing the sun. That meant they were facing the opposite bank and showing me their backs. Despite a chunky lens, the opposite bank was too far away to afford a good shot. But wait, I was wearing these weird Salomon Techamphibians. They may not yet have been used by me for their intended purpose but these guys’ natural habitat is supposedly wading about in water and La Rigole isn’t very deep. I’ll go to reasonable extremes for nature and soon hitched up my shorts to take the plunge in search of better pictures. (Please excuse the rather ancient and garish shirt, it’s very fine silk and the coolest thing I own – temperature-wise, that is.)

IMG_6401_Beautiful_demoiselle_female IMG_6399_Beautiful_Demoiselle_male I may have received a few strange looks from passing locals wondering what I was up to paddling around in their beloved La Rigole but it was great fun, cooling and very worthwhile. Their name undoubtedly sounds a little trite but what stunning insects Beautiful Demoiselles are.

I never dreamt I’d put Salomon’s Techamphibians to such good use. 🙂

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Frog Alert!

Decision time: we are on a pitch that has been booked by others beginning on Sunday so we have to move. The question was whether to move pitches and stay here or to try somewhere new. To cut a long and very indecisive story short, we decided to move to a new pitch here.

Enter, once again, our old friends the tree frogs. We are basically surrounded by hundreds of tiny, perfectly formed bundles of cuteness. As we began preparing to move – disconnecting cables, water supplies, etc. – it became quite startling where the little fellows chose to sit. In the following collection of pictures, which should mainly speak for themselves, the orange thing is our electricity cable reel. Also featured are the caravan corner steadies, wheels (dangerous) and wheel chocks, a portable Weber barbecue (particularly dangerous) and, the pièce de résistance and my personal favourite, a watering can spout.

IMG_7037_where's_that_frog IMG_7043_where's_that_frog IMG_7049_where's_that_frog IMG_7053_where's_that_frog IMG_7069_where's_that_frog IMG_7070_where's_that_frog IMG_7081_where's_that_frog IMG_7078_where's_that_frog IMG_7079_where's_that_frog

No frogs were hurt in the making of this blog entry (we think).

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Respite in the Pyrenees

Not that we’re complaining at all but we’ve been having a run of wonderfully sunny weather and the temperatures have been climbing. Today, senior host Marcel was talking about temperatures being forecast to hit 35°C/95°F around Fanjeaux. With a clear day in prospect over the Pyrenees and with our being only about 50kms/30mls away, it seemed like a perfect opportunity to go higher into the mountains where life would be a little cooler.

The French are great ones for water management. On the rare occasions that we get a few dry weeks in England, we soon start hearing the word drought. Not so in France, where the summers are generally hotter and longer. The French are keen on building barrages (damns) and storing plenty of water, both for irrigation and hydroelectric schemes. (About 15% of French electricity is generated by water.) Some Dutch friends had pointed us to a high reservoir, Soulcem, sitting between Pyrenean peeks reaching ~2700m/8200ft but to which there is road access. It nestles close to the borders with Spain and Andorra and, for the more adventurous walkers, offers footpaths across the borders into both countries. We set off to explore.

IMG_6959_Soulcem Driving up the valley on what is best described as a 1½ track road was fun. After a pleasant picnic lunch complete with new butterfly for the photo collection, we began driving straight towards a solid wall of rocks; the barrage. There appeared to be no way to get beyond it on the approach but the road went round a few tight hairpin bends and up a few steep climbs and suddenly we were beyond the barrage and beside the lake it created. Here there was a fence across the road but with a single-track cattle grid which was open. No sign proclaimed interdit  or defense d’entrer so we continued until we came to the absolute end of the road where dozens of cars were parked. These belonged to a mixture of walkers and fisher-folk intent on plundering the mountain streams.

IMG_6994_Pyrenees IMG_7005_Pyrenees IMG_6223_Pyrenees We were not disappointed – what scenery! With the temperature at a very pleasant 23°C/73°F we set off on one of the tracks, not as far as Spain or Andorra given that we were lugging camera kit, but in that direction. ‘T was a perfect day to be in the mountains and it was just a great place to soak up the majesty of an imposing range of mountains.

If we get another suitable day, we’ll be back.

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Pretty Destructive

Being a farm site with a reasonably sized lake, our camp site and Fanjeaux is home to a diverse collection of wildlife. The lake currently has a family of mallards, a family of coots and some frustrating little grebes that insist on diving beneath the surface whenever a camera appears. The lake is also teeming with dragonflies and damselflies of various colours.

IMG_5981_Green_beetleIMG_6039_Green_beetle Every now and then non-resident wildlife drops in for a while or passes through very briefly. A couple of days ago we were invaded by a plague of metallic-looking, iridescent beetles. Depending upon the light, they appeared either bronze or green but in any case were very attractive. As yet we’ve been unable to identify the beetles in our insect book so I can’t put a name to them. Their size seemed to vary tremendously, with some being about twice the size of others.

IMG_5984_Green_beetleThe main trees on this site are formerly very large poplars, now having been seriously pollarded by farmer Luc. In between the poplars are what we think are small ash trees, 6-10 feet (2-3 mtrs) tall. It was the ash trees that were attracting the attention of the iridescent beetles. The beetles were merrily munching the edges of the leaves, very much as caterpillars do. Some of the beetles began copulating back to back though they appeared to keep eating while they were engaged in sex – very rude, even for a beetle, I’d have thought.

IMG_6683_Green_beetleBeetles aren’t great fliers, often, and these seemed to be flying tail down forming a kind of crucifix shape in the air as they buzzed about a small tree next to us. Always interested in pretty new wildlife, we snapped away happily and Francine managed a action shot of one flying.

IMG_5994_Green_beetle  A day or so after the invasion I glanced up at one of the taller ash trees, the first to be targeted by the beetles, and was horrified to notice how completely they had stripped its top branches.  There wasn’t a leaf left in site. Mercifully, the beetles didn’t seem to destroy the lower branches’ leaves so we hope the tree will recover but it looks in a pretty sad state now.

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Purpose of Cols

We have become fans of Le Tour, the Tour de France. Staying a week longer in France this year, we are going to miss the first week on television and will have to try and catch up during the second two weeks when we are back home. ITV4 puts on some very fair coverage of this premier cycling event.

Anyone with a passing interest in Le Tour will know that two of the areas featuring in every year’s event are the mountain ranges of the Alps and the Pyrenees. Anyone having spent more than a passing moment in France will not only realize that cycling is a national obsession, but that the French really aren’t that happy cycling unless they are cycling uphill. Show Frenchman a col and he is apt to leap astride a bicycle and begin slogging his way up it.

In our much long-for continued good weather, we popped about 50 miles down the road today into the Pyrenees. We’d taken lunch (some leftover paella) with us but couldn’t resist the look of a small bar/restaurant in one valley heading over a pass for Ax-les-Thermes. While we were enjoying a splendid, though too large, lunch for €8.50, in clopped a cyclist wearing cleated shoes – the kind that clip onto pedals like ski bindings. Clearly this was a cyclist who knew what he was doing. We were at about 1200 metres. To another interested French diner, he mentioned something about “doing the major cols”.

IMG_6639_Col-de-Chioula IMG_6644_Col-de-Chioula Eventually we all finished our lunch and continued on our respective ways. We continued, with the help of a tireless internal combustion engine, up to the top of the pass, the Col du Chioula (1431 metres/~4400 feet). Not only were we greeted by some magnificent Pyrenean views, but we were also greeted by a group of three more cyclists having their engineless hill-climbing achievement recorded on pixels/film by a very interested lady of “advanced years”. Having taken their photo, she was quizzing the three riders about their journey. It seems as though the whole of France takes an interest in cycling. Having sated the curiosity of their appreciative audience, the three cyclists continued with the rewarding descent down into Ax-les-Thermes.

Our farm site is atop a modest hill near Fanjeaux. I’ve foolishly cycled up it once and it hurts. I have nothing but admiration for those who can gleefully cycle up cols higher that any peek existing in the UK. Bravo!

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Night Farming

Francine and I are very familiar with this campsite. It has become one of our firm favourites, both from a quality of site and basic interest points of view. Our hosts are dairy sheep farmers, Luc and Nadine, and, besides the wildlife that lives in and around their lake (used for watering crops in the dry season),  they have a herd of 320-ish ewes whose milk is collected for the production of Roquefort cheese. Luc and Nadine are great hosts who hold aperitif evenings for their camping guests. In turn, we are fascinated watching the day-to-day business of their farming.

IMG_6561_Piquenique IMG_6560_Barbecued_sardinesToday was market day in nearby Bram. Bram is a fascinating town whose shape cannot be fully appreciated other than from the air. It is circular radiating out from a central square but we land-lubbers cannot really do it justice. You have to buy a postcard. Some markets in France seem to target tourists in particular but the market at Bram seems to be targeted more at locals. Tourists aside, French markets are always very well attended and it is quite surprising how much of their weekly produce some folks actually buy at them. Having been starved of good barbecue weather of late, Francine and I couldn’t resist buying some sardines to grill for lunch. We have, after all, got one of France’s finest sites for a pique-nique right on our doorstep.

The land that Luc and Nadine farm, together with one of their sons, Cedric, is mainly used to grow fodder for their sheep herd. In the summer the sheep are allowed out into the fields to graze but in the winter they are kept in a barn, the bergerie, where they are fed on a mixture of hay, barley, and luzerne (alphalpha). Luc and Cedric had been busy cutting some of the fields of luzerne and turning it to dry a little. At today’s evening aperitif session, Luc told us that he was going to be making a noise tonight, to compete with the frog cacophony, baling one of the fields of cut luzerne. Baling work would start at 10:00 PM.

IMG_6599_Night_farmingThis was a new experience for us and we were keen to stay sober enough (very difficult) to try and take photos of their night farming activity. Francine used the tripod and time approach while I tried with my flash gun. Not wishing to be run down by a baler (and Luc was anxious not to run us down with a baler), we stood at a safe distance – so safe that my flash really wasn’t powerful enough. After a few trial shots, however, Francine had much better success with the timed tripod approach. Luc likes to have copies of our pictures and I’m sure he’ll be happy with this addition to his collection.

Never believe anyone who says that farmers do not work hard, even French ones.

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Minerve & Moules

Luc, our host and local farmer, has put considerable effort into documenting several day trips based around his wonderful farm campsite. As committed fans of the viticulturists’ art, one trip that we have always been interested in but have never actually taken is to Minerve, about 50 mls/80 kms away. Minerve is the town that gives it’s name to the Minervois wine region and so, would seem like something of a natural habitat for us.

IMG_5584_Minerve Minerve is a classic French hilltop town with a very impressive approach down an unexpected (by me) gorge. In fact, the town is curiously positioned between the two gorges of the Brian and Cesse rivers. There’s nothing curious about the position from a defence point of view, of course, since the place must have been something of a stronghold. In practice, though, it was a not-quite-strong-enough-hold because, having turned Cathar at the beginning of the 13th century, it became a target for Simon de Montfort’s crusade and was taken after a seven week siege. The poor souls were “purified” by burning. That should do it!

IMG_5578_Pont_naturelFrancine and I followed signs to a pont naturel (natural bridge) which turned out to be an enormous tunnel carved through much of the surrounding rocks by the Cesse river. By enormous, I mean about 30 metres high and a hundred or so metres long – huge! The river goes underground in the dry season and the tunnel was, indeed, dry. I found that a little surprising given all the rains of late in the south of France; “dry season” was not a phrase springing readily to mind until today.

IMG_6525_Moules_caravaniereBeing a wine centre, we just had to get some of the precious local product to help dinner go down. What did we fancy, not too heavy in the welcome higher temperatures, to accompany chilled white wine? Our “local” supermarket came up with a splendid package of fresh mussels, ready to cook. Some butter, half an onion, fresh spring garlic and moules caravanière was soon served up and washed down with some white Minervois. Excellent – and not a single mussel failed to open!

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Godot Arrives!

Well, wha’ d’ ya know? Godot is actually here in the form of some sunnier, drier weather. The wind is still with us but we beggars won’t be choosers and we’re very relieved. All our fellow campers look much relieved, too. I’m sure, also, that the locals are feeling a little relieved that their uncharacteristically long run of unsettled meteo seems to be changing.

IMG_5564_Dragonfly_exuvia Nature is also much relieved. This site is one of the richest Francine and I know for wildlife and the business of eating and mating has been on hold for the last few days in the wind and rain. Now that Godot is here again, not only are all the campers emerging but so is nature. Once again dragonflies and damselflies are buzzing about over the lake beside which we are camped. A quick walk along the margins of the lake revealed several dragonfly exuviae, the husks remaining after their transformation into adults.

IMG_5706_Frog The lake is swarming with frogs which are once again basking in the shallows soaking up some sun. The lake is actually pretty much overrun with frogs and, throughout the entire night time, there is a ceaseless cacophony of their croaking. Francine and I love it. The raucous noise is so constant that we can push it into the background and sleep, listening only when we want to. Not everyone is quite so keen on it, though. We have known campers be driven to distraction by the frogs’ noise, shutting down all ventilation in an attempt to deaden the din. With the cooler weather, the frogs have actually been noisy during the day, as well. Their calling is apparently heat related, the daytime racket lessening as the temperatures increase.

IMG_5613_Tree_frog The more observant campers rightly become slightly curious when noticing that some croaking is not actually emanating from the lake. Some of the noises seem to be coming from the trees. The culprits are painfully cute, bright green tree frogs which, with a little patience, keen pairs of ears and eyes might track down. I’m used to tree frogs featuring in wildlife programs based in a jungle but here they are enjoying a spot of southern France.

Marcel (local farmer senior) tells us that the weather should be good until at least the weekend. Let’s hope he’s right. If so, the wildlife situation can only improve.

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Cricket Season

There are usually just a couple of months of the year that offer sane people some respite from the tribal fanaticism of the erstwhile sport of soccer. Cricket should take over and, whilst not as gentlemanly as it used to be, still beats soccer hands down. Regrettably, once every four years, what would normally be the halcyon days of a football-free summer are ruined by the World Cup. Such is the case this year though, because we are in France where the national team seams to be doing as poorly as our own, it is not being rammed down our throats to the extent that I might expect.

Up until this trip, I’d have said that the French knew nothing of the existence of cricket. However, Francine did spot a reference in our campsite book to a site that is “close to a cricket pitch”. She can’t remember where but I assume it has to be in a region with a substantial number of ex-pats. The weather back at home in England is consistently beating our French weather so there, cricket may be continuing relatively unhindered. Were there a cricket season here, by now it would surely have been cancelled due to weather if not to soccer.

IMG_6486_Field_Cricket The halcyon days of summer are on hold in France, at least. Once again, yesterday we suffered a 15-hour deluge. Today was technically an improvement with the rain being light and very intermittent, though we were still being battered by very high winds. However, the ground is now so waterlogged that caravan Guillaume was surrounded by pools of standing water. The water wasn’t draining anywhere very quickly so we decided to move Guillaume up the slope of our pitch to what might hopefully be drier ground. In doing so we uncovered another poor critter that also seemed to have the impression that cricket season had been cancelled this year. I’ve never seen one before but it’s a Field Cricket. I was surprised by its size; it’s about 2cms long. It should be chirping away in the sunny fields but couldn’t seem to find anything to sing about.

We know how it feels.

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