Left In Charge

There are many good reasons not to fly Ryan Air. First among these reasons, of course, is that the plonker in charge has no respect for customers and doesn’t deserve to have any. The reason uppermost in my mind this very early morning, though, was that the Mr Plonker’s plane that would be taking our hosts back to their Xmas celebrations in the UK was due to leave Alicante airport soon after 6:00 AM. It’s an hour down to Alicante from Jalón and our friends had a bag to check-in (15kg limit, hardly anything – thanks Mr Plonker) so the alarm roused us at 3:00 AM. In fact, I’d been awake since 12:30 AM waiting for the alarm so it had hardly been worth getting undressed and going to bed at all.

Even when the autopista running between Jalón and Alicante is busy, it’s quieter than our M1 at midnight. In the early hours of a Spanish morning, the road is all but completely deserted. Who else but those poor unfortunates with a seat on Mr Plonker’s early morning flight would want to be on the road at 3:30 AM, anyway?

I’ve never seen an airport so quiet, either. I dropped off my passengers and concentrated on finding my way back home. At 5:50 AM and after having only 80 minutes of sleep, I collapsed again.

_MG_2095 Net maintenanceThe day proper began at 10:00 AM. We shot into Calpe to enjoy the sunshine and see what might be lurking around the lagoon. The sun, however, was accompanied by something more than a stiff breeze, so much so that the normally calm Mediterranean sounded like a proper sea with breakers hitting the sandy shore. Such wildlife as there was, a distant group of Flamingos and the odd seagull, was hunkered down. Most interesting was a small group of fishermen mending nets in the uncannily quiet fishing harbour.

With the wind spoiling plan A, we headed for the Consum supermercado to implement plan B, which turned out to be a lunch of  wondeful bara rustica (bread similar to the best of the French baguettes) and prawns accompanied by allioli, on the naya back at home. Why is it that we Brits pay through the nose for pathetically small prawns when the Spanish can buy 500g of good sized cooked prawns for a mere €3.00? It makes you want to spit!

ScampA bright afternoon gave us the chance to settle lunch by walking el perrito through the vineyards to Lliber where there is a small bar overlooking the square. A matching pair of cafe solos [espressos] together with a digestivo of generous measures of Soberano [Spanish brandy] finished things off admirably.

¡Feliz Navidad!

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Posted in 2013 Spanish Xmas

Sun at last

2013-12-22 12.13.01 Jalon vineyardAfter a few days of damp weather that peaked towards indifferent, today dawned with crystal clear blue skies. We’d used the rubbish weather to seek out a half piglet for our freezer ready for the festivities but now we were looking forward to getting out into the surrounding countryside à pied. After a few necessary chores, I slung my camera and monopod over my shoulder and headed out into the vineyards lying between Jalón and Lliber [pronounced “Yee-bear”].

_MG_2061It really is amazing what difference a blue sky makes to ones demeanour. It makes a difference to the demeanour of the wildlife, too. I spotted a few Small White butterflies flitting around the hedgerows and lines of vines but I was toting my camera largely for the birds which are always there. Regrettably, the birds proved to be very skittish and always too far away, even with a 300mm lens plus 1.4 extender on a 1.6 crop factor camera body; I began to wonder why I’d bothered. The old vines still held a few small unwanted bunches of grapes. I don’t know if these were what the birds were after or whether their target were insects. Had I been able to identify them, maybe I’d have known their diet.

_MG_2070We continued back along the river towards Jalón, always keeping eyes open for dragonflies. Normally at this time in late December I wouldn’t have been concerned about dragonflies but host Chris claimed to have seen one fly through his garden not too long before we arrived. Other than a few more Small Whites in the surrounding fields, though, the river appeared deserted.

Back in Jalón, we headed for Casa Aleluya in search of a coffee. We wandered past a small pool in the river that seemed to be something of a sun trap and our eyes caught some movement. Lo and behold, not only dragonflies but ovipositing dragonflies. The path was too far away but a lengthy diversion and scramble over some of the river rocks got me to within shooting distance – Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum), unsurprisingly, they are late season specialists, after all. Given that fellow Odo-nutters had been spotting Common Darters in Hampshire in the earlier days of December, I supposed I shouldn’t have been surprised that there was still activity this much further south in Spain. Curiously, I had not found this species here in August.

J01_4574 Common Darters ovipJ01_4587 Common Darter

Toting my camera was a wise decision after all.

Posted in 2013 Spanish Xmas

In Search of Piglet

One of the enjoyable things about a Christmas away from home, other than the actual being away from home itself, of course, is that different celebratory food items become available. Francine and I did spend Xmas 2008 in Spain and we stumbled, quite by chance, upon a suckling pig in a supermarket. Well, to be perfectly accurate, what Francine stumbled upon was a vacuum-packed half suckling pig – the left half, if memory serves. ‘T was Francine who had to do the stumbling ‘cos I was temporarily back in the UK on a classic family emergency, returning just in time for our Xmas together on Xmas Eve. It seems that suckling pig is quite popular in Spain over Christmas. I’d been salivating at the prospect of a repeat gastronomic experience this time since leaving Luton airport.

I had not been looking forward to the rather rainy conditions that we’ve experienced since arriving but at least wet weather makes scouring the supermarkets an enjoyable experience. First, we checked out the Masymas supermercado in Jalon. Nada, nichts, nothing. Darn, I hope the Spanish haven’t gone off suckling pig. The following day found us in the local Masymas again and lo, cutely curled up on the meat counter, its little trotters curled appealingly beneath it, was a whole suckling pig. Francine thought of two reasons not to buy it:

  1. it was too big for two;
  2. it looked too much like Scamp (our charge for the season).

Well, Scamp does curl his paws under him in much the same fashion but really, some people have no sense of fun.

Finally, today on Saturday morning prior to an evening dinner party Francine and I hit the Mercadona supermercado in Benissa for some supplies. Ever alert, though our personal needs weren’t our prime requirement, we wandered past a chiller cabinet filled with halves of suckling pigs. The expiry date was 25th December and, having been invited out on Christmas Day, we’d have to freeze our booty but it was too good an opportunity to miss so we bagged €25 worth.

This year’s acquisition is the right hand side of the piglet so we’ll be able to do a taste comparison. 🙂

When was the last time you saw a suckling pig in a British supermarket?

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Bound for a Spanish Christmas

After much agonizing over deserting an elderly parent for the so-called festivities, Francine and I finally bit the bullet and accepted a Christmas and New Year house-and-dog-sitting assignment in Spain. I booked the flights, departing on 19th December and returning on 9th January, and ‘fessed up to my mother. The flights were more expensive than usual being around Christmas but, hey, life is for living. Mother was thrilled. [Ahem :)]

Just to add insult to injury, having decided upon a 3:30 AM alarm and arranged with our neighbour for a 4:15 AM departure for Luton airport to get our 6:50 AM easyJet flight to Alicante, easyJet sent out a text message saying,

Owing to high passenger volumes travelling through Luton airport over the Christmas period, we recommend allowing extra time for your journey. We are opening check-in desks three hours before departure rather than the usual two hours.

Screw that! Friendly though our neighbourly reciprocal arrangement for transport is, I wasn’t keen on dragging anyone out of bed any earlier, so 4:15 AM it remained.

Good decision! We arrived at Luton in good time and walked straight up to a bag drop desk (having checked in online some weeks earlier). Maybe extra staff in readiness for the Christmas rush was helping? Our luck continued as we encountered no horrendous queues at security; we got through the scanners quicker than ever before. Great stuff!

Our flight left on time – actually a couple of minutes early – and went smoothly save for a little turbulence approaching the Pyrenees. Alicante’s baggage handers were their usual slow selves getting bags from plane to conveyor belt but our luggage did arrive eventually and we sauntered out past some strangely alert Spanish who actually wanted to see our passports. We were reunited with our hosts, Chris and Yvonne, for the 1-hour ride north to Jalón.

The only fly in today’s very smooth ointment was that we’d left a sunny forecast in England in favour of a rainy forecast in Spain. Nonetheless, since making the almost impossible decision to come, we’ve really been looking forward to a different Christmas and it felt very good to be back.

First job, an early evening beer or five with a few more Vall de Pop friends at the Casa Aleluja in Jalón. 😉

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An Early Bath

Having arrived in sunshine last Friday lunchtime and having spent the following four days in sunny, if slightly windy conditions, today dawned with a grey overcast. The noticeable easterly wind was still with us and and has seemed to be something of a feature here. I consulted the weather forecast for the following few days: grey with the risk of some showers. I’d had a very pleasant, probably better than could reasonably be expected at the beginning of October, 5-night stay. I’d pretty much done the things on my to-do list.

For the remainder of the week, the grey skies weren’t going to suit any landscape photography. More cycling around the lanes would have been enjoyable but less so in the prevailing stiff breeze. I checked the forecast at home: worse, if anything, but by leaving today, I should be able to get Guillaume parked in his home field without getting soaked.

Decision made. Guillaume and I packed up and returned home for a slightly early bath, carefully avoiding the current travel nightmare that is the A11 around Thetford.

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Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Changed Expectations

The Norfolk Broads is a network of waterways based upon three main rivers: the Yare flowing mainly east-west between Norwich and Great Yarmouth, the Bure to the north and the Waveney to the south. I’m somewhat familiar with the first two but have never investigated the Waveney. The forecast today was average, dry with cloud and sunny intervals, so I thought I’d try somewhere on the Waveney.

On my newly acquired OS map, I spotted a parking area in something called Waveney Forest, just outside the village of Fritton on a bend in the river Waveney. I found it, parked and went off on foot. Dull! That’s “Dull” with a capital “D”. I think it had capital “U”, “L” and “L” as well. This was a managed conifer plantation with a muddy bog for access to teh river upon which there seemed to be nothing happening. The most interesting thing I spotted was a Tesco Extra on the way there but it was too early in the day to go shopping for perishables. Time for plan-B.

On our June trip here, we’d missed out on one of the main dragonfly attraction spots, the RSPB’s Strumpshaw Fen reserve. [Being a sick puppy, I can’t help but turn that title into The Strumpshaw Redemption. Great movie!] The weather turned out to be considerably better than forecast, clear and bright, though still a little windy; Strumpshaw would do. I left DULL with a capital D-U-L-L as swiftly as I legally could.

J01_4313 Strumpshaw HeronOriginally, I had been looking forward to some walking up here but the OS map for this neck of the woods shows few footpaths, certainly few that can be linked together into a circular walk. Strumpshaw Fen, however, provided just what was missing. I paused at the hide near the reception to snap a Grey Heron indulging in some fishing, then went off on the 5 kms or so circuit. To be honest, I saw little else of interest, other than the usual dragonflies of the late season, but it was a very pleasant saunter in some peaceful countryside.

J01_4320 Railway linesThe last part of the circuit takes the walker across a used railway line with, of course, dire warnings about, “stop, look, listen” before you attemp to cross lest you get ploughed down by the 3:15 to Norwich. I couldn’t help risking life and limb by standing in the tracks and snapping a shot along the lines, just because it was a rare opportunity in our over-protected society.

J01_4325 Wroxham river frontI needed food supplies and wasn’t far from Tesco at Sprowston so that was my next port of call. A day off cooking appealed but all I could reasonably find were some coked king prawn, just the ticket with some aioli. I fancied something more exciting with it, though. Ah, I’d be returning through Wroxham where the famous Roys sells dressed crab. Plan-C, dressed crab with king prawns and aioli, swung into action. After securing my dressed crab, with the waterfront bathed in late afternoon sunlight, I thought I’d better snap it for posterity.

J01_4326 Butchers signI was also forced to snap this sign outside a local butchers shop. I realize that butchers usually have a highly developed sense of humour/cheek but I guess this could be serious. If it is serious, it begs the question, “how do they know, though?”

Dinner beckons: dressed crab and prawns with aioli, all washed down with a cold bottle of Viognier – just the ticket!

Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Cold Vegetables

Lazy for me, that is. It was somewhat less lazy for my friend of many years, recently retired [congratulations], who rode his motorcycle up from Suffolk to visit me during my stay in Norfolk. I spent a casual morning on camp duties preparing Guillaume for a visitor and carefully avoiding breakfast since we planned to have lunch together.

J01_4307 from Ludham BridgeWe were reunited at 11:00 AM and, after the obligatory catch-up natter, sauntered down to Ludham Bridge to enjoy the local scenery. [This is an evening shot rather than midday, to get better light quality, but it gives you the idea.]

Then the worms were biting so we drove the five miles or so into Horning in search of a favourable hostelry. Bingo! Not only was there one with tables beside the river but it also sold both Adnams Bitter (for the motorcyclist) and Adnams Broadside, which is one of my personal great favourites. The curly kale accompanying my fish pie was decidedly cool but, hey, I was eating out in the sun on the last day of September and it was one of my five-a-day. 😀

Our afternoon entertainment was a return (for me) to Thurne to see the classic Norfolk scenery of boats and windmills/pumps. We also were entertained by a pair of tourists attempting to dock one of the many rental bath tubs pleasure boats.

Mr Tourist was at the helm (is that the correct term?) while Mrs Tourist sat on the bow armed with the bow line. Mrs Tourist was, shall we say, a little lumpy and seemed incapable of jumping onto shore in order to tie off the bow line. Ever the gentleman, I offered to take the bow line for her, for which she seemed very grateful, as she proceeded literally to crawl off the bow of the boat and onto shore on her hands and knees. She struggled to her feet and eventually wrapped the line around a mooring post but, I think, didn’t allow enough slack. Assisted by the wind which was blowing off-shore, with Mrs Tourist pulling the rounded bow into shore, the stern made its way back out into the middle of the river despite Mr Tourist fighting gamely to correct the situation employing copious quantities of  throttle and rudder.

J01_4301 Wind pump at ThurneGreat fun! I’m not sure how Mr & Mrs Tourist will survive the week. I stopped watching for while. Eventually they did get docked ‘cos I did spot Mr Tourist clambering ashore with the stern line. And [artistic license – beginning a sentence with a conjunction] I certainly couldn’t embarrass Mr & Mrs Tourist further by taking a photograph. Instead, here’s another take of one of the two wind thingies at Thurne.

The temperature must have dropped; the fridge had frozen my spring onions and mushrooms intended for my evening meal of Coq au Caravan. Drat! I made do.

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Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Who Needs Nature Reserves?

Another beautiful day dawned and, after Guillaume and I arose in an unhurried fashion, I pedalled off into Ludham to the local shop to secure a few more cans of beer and some nibbles during their Sunday morning opening hours. Three of Guillaume’s immediate neighbours packed up and left but unfortunately not the two small, irritatingly yappy dogs two pitches to his right. Pity. One of the wardens wandered around collecting pitch marker pegs. 🙁

J01_4290 male Migrant HawkerJ01_4296 female Migrant HawkerBy the time I’d made myself a sandwich for lunch on my day’s travels, it was darn nearly midday so I thought I might as well just eat it in situ and keep Guillaume company in the sun. I spotted one of the resident Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta) flitting about near the hedge beside Guillaume. It hung-up. I grabbed camera, monopod and caravan step for added elevation and snapped away, temporarily ignoring my half eaten sandwich. This was a male. Then, just two feet to its right, I spotted a female Migrant Hawker also hung-up. I shifted the caravan step two feet right and snapped away again. Back in June, Guillaume had a Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isosceles) hung-up in the bushes of his pitch, now he had a pair of Migrant Hawkers. Lucky Guillaume!

In June, Francine and I had made an unsuccessful attempt at finding Odos in the Winterton Dunes Nature Reserve. Acting on sketchy information, we had made our assault through the sands from the north, eventually retiring fed-up. Today, armed with more accurate information from a fellow fan, I thought I try again by attacking through the sands from the south. I trudged two miles north and found what I thought must have been the pool of main interest. I say “have been” because there wasn’t a great deal of water left. Neither could I discern any signs of  Odonata life. I’d scared up Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum) en route but that was it. Wrong time of the season, I guess. I retired fed-up and trudged two miles back south scaring up the self same Common Darters again. Not too bad a walk, I suppose, the sand was a little firmer from the south.

The time was now 2:30 PM so I didn’t want to go too far afield. However, the Upton Fen and Marshes Norfolk Wildlife Trust nature reserve was just 20 minutes away so I gave that  try. As luck would have it, clouds decided to roll in at about 3:00 PM suppressing much in the way of activity. All I did was scare up a few of the usual seasonal suspects with no photo opportunities.

J01_4297 Norfolk SceneHeading back intent on one of my newly acquired beers with Guillaume, I acted on a whim and diverted to Thurne. Good decision; here I found a small marina and not one but two iconic Norfolk windmills – actually, I think they are wind pumps for managing water levels in the marshes, but windmill always seem to sound more natural. – one of which was in the company of an attractive sailing boat. [I’ve given this a rudimentary monochrome treatment to try and get over the rather dull sky.]

So, with two more blanks at nature reserves today, I’ve done rather better on the campsite beside Guillaume. Fear not, I remain a great fan of nature reserves. Here in Norfolk, the combined forces of the RSPB and the Norfolk Wildlife Trust are doing a wonderful job preserving wildlife habitat which, of course, is the very reason there are Odos beside Guillaume in his campsite. 😉

Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Back to Aldferfen

My favourite spot from our first trip to Norfolk, back in June this year, was undoubtedly Alderfen. I had hoped that I would arrive and be installed in time to revisit it yesterday afternoon but that was not to be. However, as forecast, today dawned with clear, sunny weather, so I got a second chance.

First, though, I needed to visit a couple of local Ludham shops, including the jovial butcher (why are butchers normally jovial?), to supplement my larder to see me through the weekend. I went green and jumped on my bike, since I could actually get it out out of the bike carrier this time. 😀

I thought I’d try something a bit different for dinner on Saturday. Half a pound of pig’s liver together with half a pound of tuppeny rice smoked streaky bacon cost me less than £3. Deal! Some curly Kale from the mini supermarket and some potatoes from my store cupboard, and today’s dinner was set. The trick was padding three bottles of vino with my softer purchases so they didn’t rattle and give the game away as I cycled back to Guillaume.

J01_4272 male and female Common DartersI’d had a late breakfast (10:30 AM) of sausages, eggs and mushrooms so I didn’t need any lunch. I shot straight out to Alderfen. As I arrived, a couple of walkers left but, other than that, I was the only person there. Brilliant! There are precious few Odos remaining at this time of year in the UK but, as expected, the place was swarming with Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum), largely on the ground, and Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta), largely in the air. I did see one hawker settle but not close enough for a shot. I was a little surprised not to find any trace of any Emerald Damselflies but it was a very agreeable diversion nonetheless.

2013-09-28 16.12.20 Hickling staitheI was back by 3:00 PM so I decided on a second bike ride, this time unencumbered by rucksack full of food. I did a 15-mile round trip beyond Ludham and across the A149 main road to Hickling, beside the broad of the same name.

I was back in plenty of time for a shower before cooking my liver and bacon Saturday dinner. I deviated from Hannibal’s well publicized menu and drank a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon instead of a fine Chianti. 🙂

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Back to Norfolk

For a few years following my father’s retirement, my parents lived in Norfolk. They moved to the strangely named village, historically two villages, of Repps with Bastwick, as seen on the modern road sign, or, as can still be seen on the village sign using the much more intriguing Latin, Repps cum Bastwick. Until this year, when we popped up in June mainly in search of a localized dragonfly, the Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isosceles), I hadn’t visited Norfolk for over 20 years. In addition to finding the specialized wildlife, renewing our acquaintance with the picturesque Norfolk Broads was great. I suspected we’d be back.

We have recently returned from a 2-week walking trip in Tuscany, which was also our first visit to Italy in more than 20 years. Having been back at home for just five days, Francine turned right around and went straight back to Italy in the company of her mother to give the 91-year-old a treat. Actually, I think Francine really wanted to continue gelato comparisons in a newly begun effort to find the best Italian ice cream maker.

So, yours truly was to be left home on his Jack Jones. With the year now dying, the offer of redecorating the kitchen was unappealing and, interesting though 2013 has been in regards to pastures new (Singapore/Cambodia, Spain in summer, Tuscany), I had a couple of withdrawal symptoms brewing (France, New Forest). The idea of a solo trip in Guillaume formed; Guillaume would keep me company; we’d have a sort of male bonding trip. 🙂 I checked the weather forecasts and it seemed set to collapse both in the New Forest and in France. Curses! However, the poor weather looked to be arriving a little later in points further north and east, Norfolk looked good. I booked back into the Caravan Club site near Ludham.

This morning the alarm went at 4:30 AM. Franco-no-mates was booked to take Francine over to the aforementioned 91-year-old mother to board their 6:40 AM coach back to Italy. This time, they were to visit Lake Maggiore. Duty done, I returned home, loaded the car with a few essentials including my bicycle and, this time, a key to unlock it from the carrier :D, and prepared to set off. Norfolk should be about 2½ hours away but I also needed a fuel stop before collecting Guillaume. With a check-in time of 12:00 noon, I hit the road at 9:00 AM.

Sometimes, the simplest of things seem difficult. I headed for Asda about 10 miles away ‘cos it usually has the cheapest fuel around. Making a special journey there is a false economy ‘cos you use all the saving getting there and back. However, in this case, it was en route so made sense. The queues however, did not. Half the pumps were out of action and the remaining few had the diesel nozzles covered. I went on to a couple of nearby Shell stations where I found more covered-up diesel nozzles. Yikes! What gives? Back to Tesco near to my original Asda port of call. Phew! Not only was diesel available but, unusually, it was a little cheaper than Asda. However, at this point I really didn’t care what I paid for it. Much relieved with a brim full tank, I went to get Guillaume and we hit the road at 10:00 AM.

J01_4276 happy Guillaume We sailed along nicely until we hit road works widening the A11 around Thetford when we began to crawl along nicely and very slowly, in between complete stops, that is. I’m sure the end result will be worth it but it’s causing complete havoc in both directions. Guillaume and I finally checked-in at Ludham at 1:00 PM. The good news is that the weather was great and our favourite pitch, on grass tucked away in a corner, was free so I snagged it and we got installed. Guillaume was absolutely delighted.

J01_4246 female Common DarterA late afternoon/early evening saunter along the River Ant from Ludham Bridge proved a very pleasant way to unwind from the frustrations of the journey. I took the wildlife lens along. There were lots of uncooperative Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta) and slightly more cooperative female Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum) but nothing else with a heartbeat.

J01_4248 RBWThe evening light was wonderful. I even took a shine to a plant’s seed pods in it. If my botanist were here, I might know what the plant is. 🙂 I would have been better taking a landscape lens so let’s hope I get a repeat opportunity to correct my error.

[Francine and mater are spending night #1 at Saarbrücken in Germany. I hope they are comfortable.]

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