Overtaken by a Duck

Our first night aboard passed very comfortably courtesy of the two fixed-bed “staterooms”. [Boating people, at least American boating people, seem to refer to bedrooms on a boat as staterooms. Who am I to argue?]

Having learned our lesson that the galley [boating speak for kitchen] can really accommodate only one person at a time, we were underway at 8:02 AM, our first goal being to fight our way out of Milton Keynes.

We had not yet achieved our first goal when we came across a water point at Gifford Park. The water point in question was a very slow water point, we were told, and was already being used by the person who told us, so we were delayed waiting before we could even start to fill up our own fresh water tank. Taking on water is a daily requirement, especially with four folks using showers. After about 15 minutes, we got connected to the water ourselves and were filled up in about another 20 minutes.

With almost constant moored boats along the length of the canal, leaving MK had to be done at tick-over speed, which is about 2 mph. As we did achieve our first goal, we were overtaken by a Mallard swimming serenely along. 😀

Our main goal for the day was to get through the 3000+ yards of Blisworth Tunnel, which lies just a spit above Stoke Bruerne (home of the canal museum) and most particularly after the 7 locks that raise boats up to Stoke Bruerne. We joined up with one of Juniper’s sister vessels to go through the locks two by two. The extra pair of hands was welcome and our new friend seemed to appreciate the help and guidance, too.

J14_2153 the girls teamthe boys teamAt the Stoke Bruerne top lock, our activities generated lots of interest amongst the swarms of day-trippers; a lock gate competition developed between a group of girls on one gate and a group of boys on the other. The girls, however, did seem to recruit a little male support. Children, yikes, not Franco’s natural habitat at all.

Juniper and Capt Virginia

Blisworth tunnel entrancelight at the endAfter a brief pause in Stoke Bruerne to purchase a River Thames guide book, Captain Virginia negotiated Blisworth Tunnel very well, the darkness lasting about 35 minutes. An oncoming boat entertained us with some moderately loud music from Gladiator as it passed, which is an interesting experience in a 3000-yard, pitch black tunnel. It felt good eventually to break out into sunlight again after more than half an hour of disorientating darkness. Prior to internal combustion engines, I believe bargees used to traverse the tunnel by “walking” along the tunnel walls whilst lying on planks protruding from the sides of the boats. Just how ridiculously difficult and tiring that was, I can’t imagine.

Main goal achieved, we moored for our second night after 10 hours and 21 miles, about 5 miles short of Weedon Bec, for some well deserved pre-prandial drinks.

Day 2 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

And They’re Off!

Provisioning Part 2 was done by yours truly and Francine in a dawn raid on our local Waitrose supermarket. Thank Darwin for civilized shopping. Realizing that our boat’s refrigerator would have a limited capacity, we bought food for two days … and another 6-bottle case of wine, just in case 20 bottles was not enough. 😯

As midday approached, the time at which we could take possession of/board our boat, “Juniper”, we swiftly spotted that we were not going to get 4 fully grown adults, their luggage, food and most particularly 26 bottles of wine into our car all in one go. Two trips would be required. How fortunate that we live just a mile or so from the Wyvern Shipping boat yard. We loaded the car with four adults, together with the food and booze and headed boatwards for the first time. Leaving two adults to pack the food and booze, the remaining two adults returned for the luggage and trip two.

Kick-offOnce fully loaded, a little instruction on the daily boat maintenance routine saw us cut loose onto the water, Captain Virginia manning the helm, and heading north towards Milton Keynes. Ah, so that’s the way we’re going round then, anticlockwise. This seems to me to be the sensible option, going downstream with the flow of the River Thames rather than upstream against it.

Dealing with a few single locks warmed us up, us being the lock team of Francine and Franco. dealing with the linked set of three locks at The Three Locks pub just north of Leighton Buzzard cause a little head-scratching but we got it figured out thanks to some on-board instructions: as you drain one lock you have to open the top gate paddles into the next lock down to stop the relatively small intervening pound overflowing. Tricksy!

The starter’s pistol had gone off at 1:30 PM. With our locking skills from 15 years ago being refreshed – that was the last time we did this narrow boat caper – in 5½ hours we’d negotiated 7 locks to race 10½ miles north up the Grand Union and to moor for night #1 in a strangely quiet part of Milton Keynes (it’s very difficult to get away from the drone of traffic anywhere in MK). What progress! A shopping trip in the car to Central Milton Keynes takes about 15 minutes. Had we been walking along the canal towpath, we’d have been about 4 miles further on. One begins to see why this mode of transport became outmoded.

I’m pretty sure this constitutes noticeably slower progress than our merry crew made 15 years ago. The main reason, I think, is that there now seem to be many more residential boats moored at irregular intervals along the canal causing a slowing of progress, from almost 4 mph to about 2 mph, as one passes moored craft.

I’m not sure that the published typical timings for cruising between certain points are actually any longer typical. We’ll have to keep our eye on them and see.

Day 1 map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Provisioning, Part One

Do you remember galoshes? No, neither, it seems, does anyone else – except Capt. and Mrs Virginia who were in search of a pair of waterproof overshoes for the Captain on his boating activities. We spent a good portion of Friday scouring various country supply stores, huntin’, shootin’ and fishin’ stores, and the like. Some came close but had nothing large enough whilst others simply raised a questioning eyebrow. Wellington boots are apparently a bad idea because, if one does have the misfortune to fall in, they tend to fill with water and drag one under. This is not a particular issue where a 3-feet deep canal is concerned but it can be a very dangerous solution on the River Thames, which is where we are hoping to head. Capt. Virginia finished up with some (supposedly waterproof) Gortex walking boots.

The rest of the day was spent buying wine, food, gin, food, wine, food and wine. We wandered out of a well known local supermarket with a shopping cart rattling about 20 bottles of wine against each other and muttering, “that should get us through the first few locks”. 🙂

“Doing the Thames Ring”, a circular route involving the Grand Union Canal, Oxford Canal and River Thames, is less than straightforward. The canal sections should be simple enough, apart from trying to find a mooring in the crowded stretches of Oxford and London, but the Thames is tidal at London which makes re-entering/leaving (depending upon direction) the Grand Union Canal time dependent. Since there is no quick way back once aboard a canal boat, timing is critical – one needs to get through the lock on a specific day or risk delivering the boat back late. How to win friends and influence people! One is advised to contact the Thames lock lock-keeper at Brentford 24 hours beforehand.

Our Captain found the tide tables and some lock times but not all was clear so he tried calling the lock-keeper’s number. A maintenance man answered claiming ignorance. We double checked the number, found it to be correct and were left hoping that the lack of enlightenment was due to our being a little late in the day and that the man in the know had left.

I hope someone is in the know. We’ll try again tomorrow.

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Meeting the Queen

Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, that is.

Getting on the road at 5:30 AM is not a new experience, though the older I get the less appealing such starts seem to get. Meeting a ship in port instead of an aircraft arrival at an airport would, however, be a new experience.

Given the the early hour, we plumped for the M25/M3 route down to Southampton. All went well, apart from a particularly odd Garmin routing decision which took us off a perfectly fine M3 onto the Winchester bypass (also fine), only to dump us back on the M3 at the junction with the A34. Odd. Also, for some weird reason, Sally Satnav chose to completely ignore the motorway which heads for the Southampton docks and pile us straight through the built up area. Odd again. Nonetheless, we arrived on the road beside Dock Gates 4 and 5 at about 8:00 AM.

Driving into the port was much calmer than arriving at a busy airport. There were several security guards directing us to the correct area and the short term car park where we could stare up at the Queen Mary 2 in all her regal glory.

QM2

Nothing felt busy, nothing felt rushed; all was very calm and peaceful. The curved roof in between the ship and the cars (above) is the terminal. We paid for our parking (£3 for up to 2 hours) and wandered in.

QM-TerminalThere’s not much to the inside of the terminal, really. The most critical piece of equipment was a Douwe Egberts coffee machine which produced a decent and very necessary espresso. Passengers, all 2650 of ‘em, seem to sort of drift off the ship at irregular intervals and at their leisure, as opposed to the frenetic, massed rush for the door, luggage conveyor belts and arrivals exit adopted by airline travellers. Much more civilized!

Having taken 8 days to cross the northern Atlantic, with a brief stop in Nova Scotia en route, our two passengers sort of drifted off at about 8:30 AM looking very calm and fresh and showing no signs of fatigue or ship lag. We sauntered back the short distance to our waiting car, loaded both our passengers and their luggage, and were back on the road just before 9:00 AM for our return journey.

Just before 9:00 AM constitutes rush hour. Once again, the blasted Garmin logic chose to ignore the purpose built motorway (wherever it is – I’ve never been to Southampton before) and stuffed us back on the very congested commuter roads of Southampton. Odd once again. These stupid devices are supposed to pick up traffic jam details but not for all traffic jams, it seems.

All was well and, following our new experience, we were back just before midday. This ship lark looks like a very pleasant way to travel – if you got the time and the money. 😉

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Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

An Adventure Approaches

On Saturday we begin a journey on the canals together with two American friends, let’s call them Captain and Mrs Virginia. Since connectivity on a canal boat is most likely to be sporadic, to say the least, I thought I’d try posting using email. So, here goes …

15 years ago, the four of us did a 1-week “there and back” canal trip – up the Grand Union Canal from Leighton Buzzard to Braunston Junction and back. Capt. Virginia heard about the possibility of doing “The Thames Ring”, a circular route consisting of the Grand Union Canal, the Oxford Canal and the River Thames. The trip is supposedly possible in two weeks but the Wyvern Shipping Company Ltd in Leighton Buzzard recommended a 2½-week rental to allow for more than just travelling full time. 15 years on, his trip has become reality.

Our first challenge begins tomorrow (Thursday) morning when we attempt to meet our fellow travellers disembarking the Queen Mary 2 at Ocean Terminal in the port of Southampton after their 8-day North Atlantic crossing – posh gits! Apparently, there is a short term car park near the terminal, all we have to do is find it.

Well, not quite all, perhaps. Assuming that goes well, the next thing we have to do is find two particular Americans amidst the other 3,000 folks also spilling off the renowned ship.

Oh, and we need to leave by about 5:30 AM to be there ready and waiting. 🙂

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Another Visitor for Guillaume

When we rediscovered Norfolk last June, our primary goal being to search for the Norfolk Hawker/Green-eyed Hawker (Aeshna isosceles), we made our first visit to what we now refer to as Guillaume’s petit coin [Guillaume’s little corner]. We’d hardly installed ourselves before an immature example of our quarry came and hung-up in the hedge bordering Guillaume’s petit coin.

Guillaume’s petit coin has gone and done it again. This time, as we were staring wistfully out of a side window, a Migrant Hawker (Aeshna mixta) sniffed about the hedge, chose a spot and hung-up in it about three feet off the ground. It stayed while I extracted the camera.

J14_2058 Framed MigrantIn what has turned out to be a somewhat disturbed year from an Odo-watching point of view, this constitutes my first Hawker at rest. It was a female and access wasn’t great so I initially snagged a shot through a gap in the obscuring foliage. I quite like the framing effect of the out of focus leaves.

J14_2080 Flashed MigrantThen I tried to squirm round to get a clearer line up. As usual, I struggled with the lack of light before remembering to use my built-in flash. One day, I’ll think of using flash straight away!

Unlike last year’s Norfolk Hawker, this Migrant had been round the block. Her abdomen was slightly out of true and her left eye was very dented. I’m not sure what causes this but I did read somewhere that the pressure of the male’s anal appendages during copulation might be to blame.

Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Cloudy Skies

We started our day with a cycle ride to the nearby ruins of St Benet’s Abbey on the banks of the River Ant. Actually, the major ruins are part of the gate house to the abbey rather than of the abbey itself, of which just one small section of stone wall remains. There is, however, a fanciful drawing showing what the abbey “might have looked like”.

When we were up here last year, the gatehouse remains had been surrounded by particularly unsightly fencing and scaffolding, making a photograph of it a rather pointless exercise. Even Photoshop couldn’t have fixed that. We set off to look, despite expecting to see more of the same. Joy of joys, the scaffolding and fencing was all gone so Francine could finally get to grips with the ruins and developing disturbed sky.

_MG_5911

In the afternoon with a patch of brightness appearing, we made a return visit to the Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s reserve at Alderfen. The first thing we came across in the narrow country lanes leading towards the site was a “Road Closed – Access Only” sign. Fortunately, the road closed barriers were immediately after the track leading down to Alderfen so we made it. Less happily, the bright spell was very short lived and the overcast soon conquered the Norfolk skies again.

J14_2040 Ruddy DarterUndaunted, we made a circuit of the reserve seeing good numbers of Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta) and Ruddy Darters (Sympetrum sanguineum), with a handful of other species in much lower numbers. Only the Ruddy Darters produced anything like a decent photo opportunity.

J14_2049 Swallowtail caterpillarOur most interesting find was a very colourful, thumping great big caterpillar. We first of all thought that this might be a caterpillar of the Emperor Moth (Saturnia pavonia), an example of which can be seen here. Our specimen seemed essentially similar in colour and pattern but our only diagram showed that Emperor Moth caterpillars have tufts of short bristles which our specimen lacked. Once we got to grips with our caterpillar reference volume, it turned out that this magnificent character was a Swallowtail Butterfly caterpillar (Papilio machaon). In the UK, the Swallowtail is one of Norfolk’s better known celebrities. Excellent!

Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Power Mad

So, here we are back in the land of windmills, though the old ones that dot the landscape of the Norfolk Broads are more correctly referred to as wind pumps, their primary purpose being to drain land of water. Norfolk being essentially flat, there is little to hinder any wind so there are, of course, some more modern wind turbines, designed to generate electricity, dotting the land- and seascapes.

Coincidentally, there was an interesting and relevant piece of writing by Christopher Booker in last Sunday’s Telegraph concerning the demolition of Didcot power station and the UK’s power policy. Since I cannot find an on-line reference, I’ll repeat the salient points here.

At the time when the plant’s German owners closed down Didcot A last year – having decided that it was not worth paying hundreds of millions of pounds to modify it to comply with an EU pollution directive – the 2,000 megawatts of electricity it was capable of supplying to the National Grid were only slightly less than the average total of 2,200 megawatts then being unreliably generated by all of Britain’s thousands of subsidised wind turbines put together.

Assuming the figures are true – staggering!

The first thing that made my jaw drop was the “German owners” bit. What on earth have we come to if we let our power generation systems be controlled by foreign interests, for Darwin’s sake? It’s one to address our lamentable shortfall by buying power from the French who, being much more sensible folks than us, invested in nuclear power stations which now create 80% of their output, an output which actually produces a surplus enabling them to sell it abroad. We, by contrast, generate too little to begin with and surrender control of what we do have to foreign interests. The UK has completely lost it!

In the blink of an eye, the foreign interests have lost us the entire output from all the wind turbines, most of them now blighting what used to be various tracts of our so-called “green and pleasant land”. I know Didcot and its cooling towers was never an attractive sight but a power station is a very localized eyesore and there aren’t that many of them. Wind generation risks becoming a national eyesore which will never kick out enough power. I actually think that an individual wind turbine is a reasonably attractive piece of engineering but that opinion changes when dozens of them are scattered across rolling green hills and pasture.

Not all our wind turbines blight the land, it has to be said. A strategy I find less offensive is the placing of wind turbines off the coast, out at sea. There is an example here just off Great Yarmouth. The delightfully named Scroby Sands is home to a wind farm of 20 turbines.

Francine has been training her camera on a few of them. The first is a straight shot, the second is a composite of five shots to get a bit more interest in the rotating turbine blades. The second also seems to do reasonable well in monochrome.

_MG_5806Merged

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Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Searching for a Subject

Norfolk shares much in common with the Netherlands; it’s flat, there’s a lot of water and there are quite a few old wind pumps (what most folks probably refer to as windmills) that were built to manage the water. The old wind pumps make a very atmospheric photographic subject which Francine is keen to try and exploit. Today being decidedly windy, too windy to make cycling an attractive proposition, we elected to drive around scouting out suitable subjects.

Finding a good subject is less easy than one might imagine. An OS map makes a good starting point ‘cos the wind pumps are marked. The first filtering process is one of access – can you get near enough, either by road or on foot? If you can get there by road, is there somewhere legal to park without causing an accident? The answer to either of these questions is disturbingly frequently, no.

The second filtering process involves condition; largely, are there sails attached? A sail-less wind pump does not make the most interesting picture. Unfortunately, they all look the same on an OS map, so we found ourselves approaching some of the wind pumps that made it through our first filter, only to find that they fell at the second hurdle because they had no sails.

Once you get through the above checks, you’re into checking situation, direction compared to the light, background and foreground, etc., to see if a good wind pump can make a good picture. Photographers are very difficult to please but we ended up thinking that Thurne wind pump might provide Francine’s best chance.

Since the wind pumps are beside waterways – they were positioned to pump water off the land and into a suitable water course – what you really need to gain good access to these things is a boat. We haven’t got one but there are thousands of pleasure boats plugging up and down the rivers linking the Norfolk Broads. Of course, that being the case, even once you’ve found a good wind pump to photograph, the likelihood is that some grockel will park an ugly fibreglass bath tub of a boat beside it and ruin your shot. One of the few traditional Norfolk wherries, such as the one below seen on the river Ant, would actually enhance the shot. A regular sailing boat would be perfectly acceptable. A fibreglass bath tub would be little short of a disaster.

Norfolk wherry

We did check out Little Ormesby Broad as a location and rejected it. We did, however bump into quite a few Odos flitting about the vegetation surrounding the car park and lining the path towards the broad. Here’s a not-quite-fully-red Ruddy Darter (Sympetrum sanguineum) and a Blue-tailed Damselfly (Ischnura elegans), just to brighten things a little more.

J14_2030 Ruddy DarterJ14_2034 Blue-tailed Damselfly

OK, we think we’ve got a photographic target. Now what we need is for us to remain sober enough to get out on an evening when the westering sun puts in an appearance. We wait with bated breath.

Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Guillaume’s Petit Coin

We’re back in Norfolk again, having rediscovered it last year. This is not our normal camping time of year, it being the height of Satan’s Little Disciple season. We should have been here just before the schools broke up and released the little darlings but family bereavement caused a delay. So, here we are trembling with fear but in search of some R&R.

The first time Guillaume pitched up in Norfolk, we lucked out and found a grass pitch in the far corner of the campsite. From our point of view, this seemed to be the most desirable pitch here, largely because:

  1. it was a grass pitch (as opposed to gravely hard-standing);
  2. it has only two neighbours, one of which is quite a distance away (great for we antisocial types);
  3. it is bordered by a very tall hedge on two sides offering a secluded seating area.

When Guillaume and I returned, sans Francine, for our male bonding trip in late September, I was both a little surprised and delighted that we lucked out again and found our favourite pitch empty once more. Guillaume immediately snagged it and was very comfortable.

On our way up today, I couldn’t believe that Guillaume’s petit coin [little corner] would be free in the height of the season but we crossed our fingers, hoped and set off. With dreadfully disruptive road works on the A11 causing chaos on the main route into Norfolk, I over-rode Sally Satnav and changed our route to skirt that area. We hit had a good journey and hit the A47 round Norwich a little further east. Not far enough further east as it turned out – we got stuck for 25 minutes in works designed to cause even more chaos at a junction on that road. More works that are going on for 72 weeks! Anyone stuck in both sets of road works, a quite likely occurrence, would have been spitting feathers.

Eventually we got through, arrived, albeit 30 minutes later than expected, and checked in. We learned that there is even worse traffic disruption approaching through Kings Lynn – a closed bridge. The planners seem to be determined to cut Norfolk off. However, joy of joys, Guillaume’s petit coin was once again free. We instantly got over our traffic frustration but I was decidedly bemused. Why, on three occasions, have we managed to find what we think of as the best pitch on site free? Hmm, here are a few potential contributing factors:

  1. this pitch is about as far away from les sanitaires as it’s possible to get (doesn’t bother us ‘cos we tend to use Guillaume’s facilities anyway);
  2. it is grass but a lot of folks seem, oddly, to prefer gravel these days;
  3. the tallest hedge. which this pitch is very close to, is to the south and a satellite dish has about as much chance of picking up a signal as there is of finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.

Whatever the reason, Guillaume is very happy once again.

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Posted in 2014 Norfolk