Moraira Reed Bed

Our valley was mostly grey and rather uninspiring again today. We’d spent our best spell of sunshine waiting in various queues inside Dénia hospital. Once again, however, the skies looked as though they might be brighter towards the coast so, having used Calpe as an escape route already, today we elected to try our luck at Moraira. A large patch of blue sky grew larger in our windscreen as we approached along the twisting Spanish local roads, which seem to be a collection of hairpin bends strung together by, well, less severe bends.

Sure enough, Moraira was bathed in sunshine and basking in a temperature close to 20°C. I think it’s a bit of a Brit stronghold. We sat outside a bar with a cup of coffee and another pair of Brits at the table next to ours were enjoying a bottle of rosado between them. Soon, they were enjoying a second bottle of rosado. 😉

Moraira has a very different feel to Calpe. Off season, Moraira is very quiet. I’d characterize it as a typical seaside town, typical for this part of the world, that is, busy in summer but quiet at other times. Many of the shops and other trading establishments are closed and shuttered, presumably because there isn’t enough trade to give them all a viable business at this time of year. Calpe, on the other hand, seems more like a town that happens to be on the coast, if you see my distinction. Yes, a lot of Calpe’s business may be in the form of summer sun-worshippers toasting on its beaches but there is a also a reasonably vibrant community living and shopping there off season. that’s just my impression, for what it’s worth.

J14_2727 Sympetrum striolatum MorairaThere’s a small pond/lake spilling out across the beach into the sea at Moraira. It is a much smaller water body than Las Salinas, the lagoon at Calpe, and, other than birds, I am yet to find any critters of my kind there. I think it’s fresh water, though, so it had to be worth a quick look. We started wandering around the perimeter. About half way around, I spotted movement as something appeared to rise from the top rail of the surrounding fence. Sure enough a dragonfly settled a little further along the rail behind me. As coastal as this location is, if I was expecting to find anything, it would have been a Red-veined Darter (Sympetrum fonscolombii) but this character was quite clearly a Common Darter (Sympetrum striolatum). As far as I could see, it was all alone, too.

J14_2723 Bath WhiteThere was one other critter worthy of note. We’ve seen quite a few butterflies since arriving – there are still flowers around for nectar feeders – and I spotted a white butterfly flitting about. Normally, white butterflies cause a bit of a yawn but this character was a bit different, showing an interesting pattern on the underside of its hind-wings. I’d seen something like this before in France and suspected I recognized it as a Bath White (Pontia daplidice). I can’t really confirm that until I get back to by books, though.

When grey, escape to the coast. 🙂

Posted in 2014 Spain

A Novel Experience

Francine had a disturbing night; she was complaining of lights or streaks in the right periphery of her vision, most noticeable in the dark. The effect was still there this morning.

We were supposed to be going for a walk with neighbours but, with an amazing attack of sense, decided to try to consult a local optician beforehand. After all, at home, we’d be straight onto our friendly optician. There’s a suitable establishment in the village/small town (whatever it  is), so we drove down and sat outside in the car waiting for 10:00 AM, the appointed opening time. That, of course, was 10:00 AM Spanish time. At 10:10 AM there were still no signs of life. At 10:15 AM, we were about to give up when, almost magically, the electrically controlled shutters began to rise. A young lady approached and began unlocking. We gave her a couple more minutes to get organized and then went in.

Fortunately, she had a few words of English. Francine explained her symptoms and asked if anyone could check her out. “Yes, I can”, replied the young lady. She could’ve stared into my eyes anytime she wanted – maybe I could develop some flashing lights. She sat Francine down, looked into her right eye and said, “you must go to hospital”, muttering something about her retina, along with a word which sounded horribly like “down”. There’s a 24-hour medical centre in Benissa just a few miles away but, no, we needed to go to Dénia hospital a few stops up the autopista. She also muttered something about laser. Gulp! “Come back and tell me what they do”, she said.

Off we set. The hospital was easy to find, which is just as well since we had no idea where we were going. At first, it looked much like an English hospital in that there seemed to be completely inadequate parking; cars were littered all over the place on the approach roads, round bends, on grass verges, almost anywhere they could be. Wondering where I’d be able to abandon ship, I dropped Francine off outside the urgencias door and went looking. I found an underground car park and followed another car down. I took a ticket, the barrier raised and I soon found several available parking spots. Maybe the Spanish who’d abandoned their cars all around the roads simply didn’t want to pay the €1.10 hourly charge. I went in search of Francine.

Any similarity with an English hospital started and stopped with the vehicles abandoned everywhere. Here was a shiny, clean, well decorated modern building that looked appropriate to its tasks. It took me about 10 minutes for find urgencias again but, when I did, there sat Francine, in a small waiting room, complete with a somewhat familiar plastic hospital admission band on her wrist. This one bore a QR code, though, which I doubt that ours have. She’d flashed her EHIC card and had been welcomed.  A TV played high up in the corner of the room. The seats were pretty hard, though. We were waiting for triage.

After 15 minutes or so, a lady popped in and called “Francine”. We were shepherded into a room where, after a brief discussion with a lady with a little English and quick “light flicked over the eyes” test, something about opthalmology was mentioned. Back to the waiting room.

After 5 or 10 more minutes, another young lady turned up and led us through more doors on a much longer journey through the maze of bright, well decorated corridors, to another waiting room. This journey was more interesting since we have no Spanish and our escort had no English. We picked up a few sounds like “SIP” (we’d seen signs mentioning SIP – seemed to be a Spanish patient id, or some such) and tarjeta [card]. Francine produced her EHIC card  again which promptly went for a walk, the word “later” trailing in its wake. Someone knew what they were doing, just not us.

We were in the consultas externas area, which sounds awfully like outpatients. A longer wait this time. We amused ourselves watching the electronic video screen which appeared to be summoning waiting patients, signified by “AAnnnn” numbers – maybe these were the SIPs – into various consultation rooms numbered 33-42. 38-42 were beside a sign saying oftalmologia.

Eventually Francine was called again, this time to have some dilating eye drops administered. Magically, her EHIC card had reappeared in the pocket of the eye drop lady and it was now accompanied by a proper Spanish patient number scribbled on a piece of paper. Her note also said she would be heading for room 40.

Spanish PrescriptionRoom 40 was running late; we had watched as its occupant had been called in order to assist a more complex case elsewhere, or that’s what we thought. We waited about 45 minutes while room 40 stood empty with its door wide open.  Finally, room 40 swung back into action as the electronic board began summoning AAnnnn patients into it. A backlog had naturally built up but each patient was taking only 5 minutes or so. Francine’s AAnnnn appeared on the electronic board. We went in whereupon the doctor, sharp as a scalpel, swiftly realized Spanish wasn’t going to cut it. He switched to English to give both Francine’s eyes a minute examination, after which we were relieved to hear that, “your retina is OK now”. Read into that phrase what you will; we had to. Francine was “prescribed” some “vitamins to strengthen her eye”. I say prescribed but the prescription consisted of a note scribbled on a piece of A4 paper with a hospital stamp to make it look official. Excellent! Who needs more? Any pharmacist, we were told, would supply the pills. Vitamins for two months – far preferable to any laser treatment that might have been necessary. We didn’t care how much the pills would cost given the alternatives we had been fearing.

Other than to worry about Francine’s condition, three hours in a Spanish hospital had been a very favourable experience and, frankly, had put our hospital experiences at home to shame. Don’t get me wrong, the care at home is good, when you eventually get it, but the environment and establishments themselves suck, in general. Just try a trip to A&E and see how you get on , what it looks and feels like, and how long it takes.

I didn’t feel too bright myself in the late afternoon/evening. I think, with the distraction of being busy now removed, nerves had finally kicked in and were making themselves known. An early night was in order.

Oh, the pills were about €35.

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Posted in 2014 Spain

Got the Bug

After a lazy Sunday recovering from our day travelling to get here – lazy apart from an early morning run back to Alicante airport to drop our hosts off for their flight back to Blighty, that is –  our valley wasn’t looking too cheery this morning. The valley was dry but grey, so, after a gentle start designed to wake us up and warm the day up somewhat, we made for Calpe to investigate Las Salinas. Calpe is coastal, so it often has brighter weather and, being lower, i.e. at sea level instead of 300m up, it is usually warmer, too.

We’ve seen dragonflies, Red-veined Darters (Sympetrum fonscolombii), around Las Salinas, a coastal lagoon, before, out of what we would regard as season, so I was interested to see if we could find any more. We parked and began wandering but it was a little breezy and nothing was in evidence. There were Flamingos out in the middle of the lagoon. There are usually Black Stilts around, too, but I couldn’t see any sign of those. A cormorant was drying its wings.

J14_2701 Painted LadyJ14_2688 Clouded YellowWe made our way towards a board walk with overlooks the landward side of the lagoon. There were butterflies flitting about, most of which were Painted Ladies, though there were a few bright Clouded yellows, too. There are several different species of Clouded Yellow but I’ve never seen any closely enough to begin trying to spot the differences. Irritatingly, they always sit with their wings closed.

All looked quiet at the end of the boardwalk until Francine finally spotted a movement. At some distance, I could just make out a female Red-veined Darter, perched on a grass stem in a hollow and sheltering from the wind. Surely where there was one, there should be more. We drew a blank, though, she seemed to be it. We turned back, satisfied that we’d found one but not exactly thrilled. Still, it was getting towards the end of November.

J14_2698 Solenosthedium bilunatumAs we made our way back along the boardwalk, hawk-eyed Francine again spotted something on  pine cone, flapping in the breeze. It looked like a Shieldbug of some kind but not one that we were familiar with. Despite flacking in the breeze, I managed a half-way decent shot for later (hopeful) identification. As it turned out, the twin light patches on its elytra (the wing covers are called elytra on beetles so I’m hoping that’s what they’re called on Shieldbugs, too?) made it quite easy, once found. This distinctive character rejoices in the name of Solenosthedium bilunatum, the light patches being the bilunata. Excellent, a brand new Shieldbug for the collection, and with an impressive name, too. 😀 Much more satisfied.

J14_2712 Sympetrum fonscolombiiApproaching the car, the day had warmed a little more and we finally scared up a couple of dragonflies, both Red-veined Darters, one male and one female. They weren’t particularly cooperative at first but eventually the male settled somewhere to allow a decent line up. We scared a few more up as we progressed, about six in all, I’d say, though with them moving about so much counting is always a challenge.

It was relatively hard work but worth it in the end.

Posted in 2014 Spain

The Joys of Travel

Once again we’ve been invited out to Jalón, Spain, to look after a house and our favourite little dog. Of course, when it comes to me and dogs, favourite doesn’t mean very much ‘cos I don’t like ‘em. This one, however, despite being a terrier-like beast, the worst of all types of dogs, is really quite cute, occasionally reaching the dizzy heights of endearing. I still think we should’ve resisted messing about with wolves, though.

But I digress. At 5:00 AM today, a taxi turned up to ferry us off to Luton Airport. This trip is odd in a couple of ways. Firstly, our dates coincide with those of our immediate neighbours who are spending the very same two weeks in their little Spanish hacienda. It is they who got us into our house-and-dog-sitting gigs in the first place. So, we shared the taxi.

The second way in which this is odd is that it may prove to be our last house-and-dog-sitting booking. Our friends have their Spanish house on the market, intending to move back to the UK. On a personal note, this is very sad. I also have misgivings because I have witnessed the unbounded joy on Chris’s face when he has returned to Spain from a visit to England. I know the dog will hate it; he doesn’t like the rain in Spain. [Cue: well known phrase.] These thoughts wandered around my head as we headed fro the airport.

There are two fine things about Luton,  one is the M1 motorway and the other is the airport – both get you the hell out of Luton and somewhere else reasonable swiftly. We pitched up at the airport at 5:30 AM in time for the easyJet baggage drop to be open. The baggage drop was very civilized with only three sets of baggage droppers ahead of us. Security was another story – the lines were very long. Still, I suppose you have to do something whilst waiting for boarding time and undressing for the security scanners followed by redressing for the departure “lounge” is as good as anything. Shoes off, belts off, jackets off, computers out of sleeves  – shoes back on, belts back on, jackets back on, computers back in sleeves. What a world. I know it’s necessary.

Our neighbours were already through; with a house full of kit in Spain, they had no baggage to drop. We met them at one of the many coffee bars, all of which were heaving. The misleadingly named “departure lounge – there is no where to lounge., as such – was absolutely heaving, at 6:00 AM. Any traditionally less than comfortable seats were occupied, the coffee lounges were full. Most of the floor space was occupied by family groups waiting. Moving around the lounge was decidedly difficult with groups of individuals standing staring up at the departure boards waiting to see which gate they should hurry off to to board their flight.The bars were full.  Even as a man who loves to imbibe, I can never understand sitting in a bar with a pint of lager at 6:00 AM. I can’t even face food at 6:00 AM. Yikes!

This wasn’t a school holiday and it wasn’t a particularly special weekend but it was a weekend. We don’t normally do this sort of thing at the weekend. We had chosen these dates to coincide with the neighbours but, since they are also retired, I wonder they’d chosen the weekend. I hadn’t even thought about it until now. Curious. IN the space of an hour, there were 10 easyJet flights departing. They all looked as if they’d be full. There were 9 Whizz flights, too. Polish is now the second language in our neck of the woods. We’ve even got a new Polish shop in town. [Note to self: must take a look to see what interesting stuff it might have.] Travel really was a much more enjoyable experience when less folks were doing it. Maybe we need to put prices back up?

We boarded, all seats were full and some carry-on baggage had to be checked into the hold. At least when it’s checked at the gate, you’re sure it gets onto the correct plane. 🙂

We arrived after a crowded but uneventful 2¼–hour flight. The Alicante skies had a high overcast but it was dry and considerably warmer at 18°C. It’s good to be back but I wonder if we’ll get to do it again?

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Posted in 2014 Spain

The Final Sprint

I say sprint ‘cos today was a short run of just about 2 miles, about an hour, back to Juniper’s home base at Wyvern Shipping in Leighton Buzzard. Narrow boats don’t really sprint even when they are not having to slow to pass moored craft. 🙂

It was another dry morning, though a little dull. What a September we’d had and what weather for what has turned out to be our 2-week trip. We’d had a few spots of rain on our first afternoon/evening but that was it; after that, we’d enjoyed mainly sunny, dry conditions. Good job, too, ‘cos steering a narrow boat and messing with locks in the rain would have been most unenjoyable.

Our first task after casting off this morning was to negotiate the very last one of the documented 175 locks on the Thames Ring. (I imagine that the 175 includes the several manned/powered locks on the River Thames but I haven’t checked.) Francine was all dressed up for her anticipated disembarkation so Franco did this, the Grove Lock, tout seul.

With the 175th lock successfully behind us, Capt. Virginia began cruising slowly passing moored boats and Tiddenfoot Park. His final sprint wasn’t plain sailing in that this was Saturday so the canal suddenly filled with swarms of canoeists most of whom were school children. Embarrassing last minute collisions were mercifully avoided.

Capt. Virginia continued round a few bends, under our final bridge, passed the Leighton Buzzard Tesco store to our right [sorry, starboard] and began to swing across the canal to Juniper’s moorings at Wyvern’s boatyard. Just as he was doing so, yet another swarm of canoeists, older this time, descended upon us from ahead shouting “narrow boat, narrow boat!” to each other in warning. Despite their warning each other, nobody seemed to slow down, I noticed. This narrow boat skipper now had 2 weeks worth of experience under his tiller arm and avoided them. They may have been faster than Juniper but they weren’t going to get to us before we made it to the dock.

We tied up and unloaded while Capt. Virginia completed the scant formalities of bringing the boat home three days early.

We’d done it, we’d completed the Thames Ring in 2 weeks, which it was originally said could be done. I confess, though, that for most of the time, I had generally doubted it.

Our journey had certainly been an experience but in truth had been little more than cruise, cruise, lock, lock. We’d done pretty much nothing in the way of tourism. This was entirely due to the timing uncertainties of our circular route with no quick way back. Having done it once, were we to do it again our experience would enable us to pace the journey more and to pick places to stop off and relax en route. We were all agreed, though, that we would not do it again even with the luxury of knowledge and more time time.

Enjoyable though our trip was in the company of exceptional friends, the canals just aren’t what they were 15 years ago.

Day 15 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Olympic Locking

Our penultimate day. Having made good time round The Ring and looking as though we’d complete the trip with a few days in hand, there had been talk aboard of using our extra time diverting down the Aylesbury Arm and back. However, even our captain seemed to be looking forward to a change so we opted for the straight shot home.

A narrow-boating friend of ours used to say of cruising on the canals, “4 miles an hour, 4 locks an hour”. It’s a common epithet. These days, I’d say that the “4 miles an hour” has been blown out of the water by the sheer number of moored boats now strewn along almost every stretch of the canal. However, given a little fortune, I  think the expectation of 4 locks an hour, i.e. 15 minutes through each one, can still hold true.

Today is Francine’s birthday [happy birthday Francine] and, having rejected a diversion to Aylesbury, our plan was to cruise from Berkhamsted to Grove Lock just south of Leighton Buzzard, only a mile or so from Juniper’s home boat yard with Wyvern Shipping. This is a trip of just 15 miles but there is a daunting total of 26 locks en route. A swift mental calculation suggests that we’d spend some 6½ hours just locking up and down. In the unlikely event that we could cover the water at 3 mph past all the obstructions, we’d be adding about 5 hours cruising suggesting a total time of 11½ hours. That’d make us late for Francine’s birthday meal with friends at the other end. Nail-biting stuff.

After a night at our pleasant Berkhamsted mooring, we hit the water at 8:30 AM straight into the first lock, after which we stopped for water. With Juniper’s debugged hose reel, our fill up took a mere 10 minutes instead of the best part of an hour. Just think, had we fixed it earlier, we could’ve saved a whole day. 😀

We didn’t encounter any traffic earlier in the trip and progress through locks was about as swift as it can get, especially with the lock team of Franco and Francine walking ahead preparing more closely separated locks in advance of Juniper’s approach. Lunch time saw us near Marsworth and the Red Lion pub. Capt. Virginia generously decided that his tiring crew deserved a lunch break so we moored in a suitable gap. Welcome though the break was, I couldn’t help but think, “yikes, we haven’t got time in hand to stop”.

After a pint and a bite, we resumed locking down towards LB. Quite soon we bumped into the back (not literally) of a broad-beamed lunch-cruise boat also locking down with a bunch of diners on board. Delay. Fortunately this delay was short because after one lock it pulled into its home base at Pitstone Wharf.

A closed swing bridge appeared on the horizon. I grabbed the CRT [Canal and River Trust] key and hopped ashore with Francine. This was not a powered swing bridge but a manual one, however. Francine and I shoved it round, paused as Juniper went by, then shoved it closed again.

DSCN6853 Floating obstructionPotential disaster struck: we came up behind another broad-beamer locking down and locking down very slowly, at that. The vessel was effectively being operated single-handed, its female crew member seemingly unable to help in any constructive way. Whilst knocking oneself out for another might seem over generous to some, I had a vested interest in helping this floating roadblock’s progress in order to speed our own as much as possible. I helped get him through before getting Juniper through.

The situation repeated itself at several more locks. “How much do you charge for this service?”, asked our unwelcome travelling companion, jovially. I smiled and threw into our conversation the information about a dinner reservation this evening for my wife’s birthday. “Oh, mustn’t miss that”, he said, continuing to impede our progress.

Mercifully at Slapton, just two locks before the Grove Lock, we rounded a corner to find the broad beamed boat mooring up for water. My double-locking would hopefully now be over, as would any further delays.

Time was running out so the ladies showered underway. Some straight cruising time remained so Franco also managed to grab a shower under way, although potentially two more sweat-inducing locks still remained. I say potentially because we need not necessarily go through Grove Lock itself, depending upon the availability of mooring above the lock.

As we approached our destination at the end of a rather fraught journey, two pairs of dinner friends, enrolled to help Francine celebrate her birthday, had wandered up the tow path to welcome us. The sight of them was very welcome and made our homecoming feel like returning after a round-the-world epic. At 6:30 PM we moored above Grove Lock for a pre-prandial glass of fizz and tension-releasing natter. Stopping short of Grove Lock, we’d actually done 25 locks in about 10 hours, including a lunch break, though I’d personally done four or five of those locks twice each courtesy of helping our obstruction make progress. I’ll claim 30 locks in one day. 😉

DSCN6873 The Grove LockA tough day was brilliantly rounded off by an excellent birthday meal shared with friends at the Grove Lock [another Fuller’s house, as you can see – told you a theme was developing].

Re-joining Juniper by clambering back over the lock gates in the dark was an interesting experience – good job we hadn’t had too much to drink. 🙂

Day 14 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

22-Lock Warm Up

Working ones way north up the Grand Union Canal from London involves a lot of locks. After a lazy day yesterday getting to the north-western side of Watford, today we were anticipating tackling 23 locks along the 11-mile stretch to Berkhamsted, where a civilized shopping opportunity (i.e. Waitrose) awaited us.

The morning began cool and overcast but Franco and Francine soon warmed by walking between and operating the first flurry of locks scattered at approximately half-mile intervals along the first five miles.

Interestingly, on leaving Watford we stopped hearing the tell-tale squeaking of any Ring-necked Parakeets. I had been fascinated to see just how far their range had expanded towards us and now I think I have my answer. Currently, my old home town of Watford in Hertfordshire seems to be as far as as they have spread in our direction towards Bedfordshire.

Progress was smooth given little in the way of other traffic and was particularly aided by several locks bearing CRT instructions to leave them empty, meaning they were already set in our favour. This seems like another good reason for doing the Thames Ring in the anticlockwise direction, the first being to travel with the flow of the River Thames.

DSCN6763 Francine working hardAs the day continued, so did the locks. The clouds, however, dissipated and the sun began shining on an ever warmer lock team of Franco and Francine. 24°C was anticipated and, combined with the physical labour, appeared to get too much for some.

2014-09-18 09.44.51 Canal wildlifeWith a few locks being spaced a little further apart so, our legs and arms beginning to notice their hitherto almost constant effort, Francine and I began hopping on and off Juniper to ride between our physical workouts. When more locks were grouped into flights, we reverted to walking between those. It’s surprising what you see alongside an English canal on foot – the parrots are nothing.

2014-09-18 10.44.44 Nash Mills marina2014-09-18 10.46.26 The Paper MillSkirting Hemel Hempstead the canal runs through Apsley Mills where we came across what I think is a fine example of canal-side redevelopment. On one side is a marina overlooked by attractive housing whilst on the other side was an delightfully presented Fuller’s bar/restaurant with very appealing canal-side external seating. What a welcoming atmosphere in which to while away an hour or two. Take note, Brackley.

After locking our way up beyond Apsley Mills, we needed our regular water stop and were bemused to find a CRT working barge moored so as to partially obstruct the water point. Brilliant! Capt. Virginia juggled Juniper’s bow in and rafted her stern off the working barge in such a way that Juniper’s water hose would just about reach when fully extended. Eureka, all was revealed! The very last six inches of the hose, until now hidden within the reel, was twisted and flattened. Small wonder that all our water stops had been taking getting on for an hour. We corrected it. What a shame we would have but one day left to benefit from our discovery.

With yet more locks in the offing we, of course, did not while away an hour or two but kept on to Berkhamsted (where, incidentally, we passed another similarly attractive and welcoming-looking canal-side Fuller’s bar/restaurant – a theme emerges). Finally, we ended our 11-mile trip to Berkhamsted having walked about 7 miles of it. Once in Berkhamsted, we found a very pleasant free mooring spot beside the park, though the mooring/no mooring sign had us confused until a man painting his double-wide barge cleared things up for us. Comfortable that we were parking legally, Juniper was securely moored and, with a weary Franco voting with his beer glass and dipping out, a raiding party was despatched to Waitrose to see what booty could be traded from the natives.

Our Berkhamsted mooring spot meant we stopped just short of what would have been our 23rd lock of the day. That means we’ll have an extra lock to do tomorrow to get to the Grove Lock in Leighton Buzzard. So, a day of just 25 more locks tomorrow, then. Arghhh!

Day 13 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Spreading Parakeets

Whilst moored at Denham, Francine and I had been a little surprised at hearing the tell-tale squeak of Rose-ringed Parakeets (Psittacula krameri) around us. The sound of the bright green parrots was unmistakable. Given that they’d spread from Richmond park to Windsor made us begin to wonder how far up the canal towards Bedfordshire we might find them.

We were not now exactly on familiar territory but we were on what should be a more reliably predictable territory for the final leg of our journey back up the Grand Union Canal to Leighton Buzzard. Having spent a peaceful night in the countryside near Denham, we decided that we could afford a more leisurely start. However, we were up and cruising at 8:30 AM. 🙂

The day was uneventful. Now back on a reasonable towpath, Francine and I chose to begin by walking between the first few locks and covered 5 miles – not a bad leg stretch. Then we re-boarded Juniper and rode between the subsequent locks. Around Rickmansworth, we were still hearing the occasional squeak of a Rose-ringed Parakeet.

After Rickmansworth, the canal winds along the bottom edge of Cassiobury Park in Watford, Franco’s home town, and Cassiobury Park is just below Franco’s alma mater, Watford Grammar School. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of some nostalgic sight from 43 years ago but, alas, the canal was almost completely tree-lined so views of anything at all were mostly obscured. I did spot of a series of Rugby goal posts which resurrected a bad memory – that of sliding headlong in freezing mud as another boy’s studded boots trampled on my hand. I hate to play field sports.

The Cassiobury Park section of canal was attractive and quiet. With the park available for nostalgic walks, it would have been a pleasant place to pass an afternoon and evening but we continued on to cover a bit more ground – well, water.

As with the tides on the River Thames, the timing of a stop on the canal can … not critical exactly but certainly important. After Cassiobury Park and nearing the north-western edge of the Watford area, we were beginning to approach the ring of the jaM25. If we kept going very much further, we would not only run into a constant drone of traffic but also possibly run out of more rural, restful moorings. I say possibly because, even though an erstwhile local, it was a long time ago and my knowledge of this particular area these days is scant. However, I mustered Juniper’s crew and we strenuously suggested to Capt. Virginia that he might like to pause and take stock. He submitted to crew pressure and moored.

We’d covered a whole 11 miles, 5 of which Francine and I had walked. We were about 2 hours short of Francine’s calculated itinerary, which would have had us stopping at Kings Langley. This was a nicer stop and we had time to spare. We called it a day.

The Rose-ringed Parakeets were still with us at Watford. A flight of three squawked and flapped their way over the golf course adjacent to our carefully selected overnight moorings. There certainly weren’t any bright green parrots here when I’d been a boy at school. 😉

Day 12 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Tension and Depression

At the risk of repeating myself, entry onto the tidal part of the River Thames through Teddington Locks and subsequent exit from the tidal part of the River Thames onto the Grand Union Canal through Thames lock at Brentford is critically time dependent. With an unusual stroke of amazingly good fortune, with no forward planning whatsoever, we arrived at Teddington locks in readiness for today’s morning high tide at 8:24 AM. Timing really couldn’t have been any better.

What we didn’t know was how our transit was to be controlled so, after another miserable night sniffling, coughing and disturbing Francine, I wandered down to the lockkeepers at 7:30 AM (unlike the rest of the locks on the River Thames, Teddington locks are manned 24 hours a day) to see what the form was. I received a completely unexpected and rather unwelcome response.

The lockkeeper that that was due to have been at Thames Lock (Brentford) had phoned in sick. Thames Lock was currently not manned. The lockkeeper at Teddington had put in a call to the Port of London Authority and was waiting to hear back as to whether or not a replacement lockkeeper could be found in time – in time for the tide, that is. If no healthy lockkeeper could be found, we would not be allowed through Teddington Locks because we would be unable to escape onto the Grand Union Canal; we would have to wait another day. (The tide a day later would be about an hour later: ~9:30 AM). I was to return to the boat and the Teddington lockkeeper would wave us through if the problem at Thames Lock got resolved.

Marvellous! I couldn’t believe that any process so critical could be so fragile. I relayed the situation to a couple in another narrow boat waiting behind Juniper. We were lucky in that we now thought that we had a few days in hand and could afford to waste a day. The couple in the narrowboat waiting behind us could not.

At least if we did get stuck for a day, Richmond Park was a mere 1¾ miles away so Francine and I would have an unusually pleasurable distraction. Maybe we’d even be able to snag a photo of the delightful Rose-ringed Parakeets that we’d dubbed “squeaky toys” after the sound of their call which we’d been hearing since our stay at Windsor.

There had been another issue: apparently the police had closed the Hanwell flight of locks (6?) near the bottom of the Grand Union Canal but the lockkeeper thought that the closure was now over and that the queue of boats thus caused had cleared. The closure had been to enable a search for a young girl who had disappeared. Being out of touch with the news for a couple of weeks, we’d remained blissfully unaware.

After a modest wait, our nail-biting tension was released by a wave to proceed from the Teddington lockkeeper; it seemed that Thames lock was again operational and awaiting our arrival. Phew! A flotilla of three narrowboats went through Teddington Old Lock and entered the tidal Thames.

J14_2279 GuillemotCapt. Virginia put the pedal to the metal and screamed off, in barge terms, at a blistering 6 mph ahead of the other two. He overtook a Guillemot, too, which I’d not seen before and which I thought was a little out of place. [Ed: Capt. Virginia was probably getting his own back for being overtaken by a duck at the start of the trip.]

_MG_6297 GUC entranceWe’d asked the Teddington lockkeeper if the entrance to the Grand Union Canal was obvious and were told it was not. Helpful! “Keep an eye out for a steel sculpture”, we were told. A little over an hour later we spotted a possibility. Being a sharp left turn of >90°, the entrance could be missed. Getting it right was not helped by the fact that our map seemed to show a marina before the canal whereas the marina entrance is actually after the canal. I wonder how that happened? With the now ebbing tide affecting Juniper a little, we made a hand-brake turn into the acute entrance to the Grand Union Canal. Coming from the other direction, there is a more visible sign declaring this to be the Grand union but signage from our direction is scant, to say the least. A pleasant young replacement lockkeeper helped us through the Thames lock onto the GUC proper.

After another powered lock operated by Franco, we were back to our 30+ minute water stops, this one hindered by another narrow boat that had used the service area as an overnight stop, against instructions. Thanks pal! At least a CRT employee knocked on his door and told him to move on.

_MG_6308 industrial landscapeThe bottom end of the GUC was an experience and not one that any of us would care to repeat. We made our way slowly further north through ill-maintained locks with ratchets that didn’t work (hold the windlass to keep them open) and even a sluice that was missing, up a canal whose oil-filmed surface was often strewn with a near constant collection of discarded bottles, cans, plastic bags and general litter, past a frequently industrial landscape with lines of permanently moored boats some of which looked ready to sink. It was a depressing sight. Francine thought she even spotted a coconut drifting about. A lockkeeper, a CRT volunteer, further on told us it really probably had been a coconut: there’s a Hindu community at Southall who regularly chuck coconuts into the canal in the belief that they will make their way to the Ganges.

We paused at a Tesco Extra at Bulls Bridge, Southall, for more supplies and again met one of our flotilla of three from the Teddington run. Our shopping experience here felt like shopping in a foreign country. We were struck by the very different levels of stock in this store compared to those at our more usual haunts. Though this was a large store, the wine section was small so our choice was limited. The cheese section was smaller than I’d have expected, too, with little in the way of interesting varieties, and the fresh meat counter was all but empty with just three or four pieces of lamb available. Somehow we found a few days worth of supplies and continued.

There were occasional more pleasant interludes but the general ambience really didn’t start to improve until we left Uxbridge and Denham deep lock behind. Here we moored in a quiet, more rural location with no neighbours, either floating or sinking.

We’d made it through the tidal Thames so any time pressure was off. Now our onward journey should be more appealing.

Day 11 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Preparing to Leave the Thames

After a night spent mainly in the company of my blocked nose and hacking cough, Captain Virginia didn’t want an under-the-weather Franco to have to deal with a Thames lock manually, so we left Windsor at 9:00 AM, when the lockkeepers should be on duty. With the flow of the river, it should be a relatively short cruise to the locks at Teddington, so there was no rush anticipated.

J14_2274 Rose-ringed ParakeetA few years ago, Francine and I had visited Richmond park to see something of the Red Deer rut. Whilst there, we were also interested to see the local feral population of Rose-ringed Parakeets (Psittacula krameri) which had established themselves there, possibly from captive escapees. We had heard their distinctive squawk whilst moored in Windsor and now began seeing them,sometimes on birdfeeders, as we cruised along. Clearly the parakeets’ initial bridgehead has spread. [Apologies for crappy distant photo on the run.]

The cruise was pleasantly uneventful and we were making good progress so we stopped at a riverside pub with a moorings in Kingston upon Thames for lunch. The menu looked good, including mussels and chips, or moules et frîtes as we Francophiles prefer to call it; Mrs. Virginia sounded particularly keen on those. Then we heard a lady exiting the pub muttering to her companion that the kitchen was closed and no food was available. Blast! 15 years ago we’d done a 1-week canal cruise with the Virginias and had twice failed to get food at canal-side pubs. This pub at least had an excuse – the pub’s kitchen was undergoing emergency maintenance. Fortunately an alternative existed; we wandered around the corner to a second pub and had a very decent lunch there.

_MG_6288 Juniper at TeddingtonLunch over, we re-boarded Juniper, pushed off and continued on to Teddington locks. Yes, locks, plural. Teddington has three locks. There is the so-called Skiff Lock, a small lock for day boats and the like, the original “Old Lock” which I think we’ll be using, and the immense “Barge Lock” measuring an astonishing 670 feet long, or thereabouts – that’d take a time to fill. We tied up at the locks’ chargeable moorings and went to pay the lockkeeper.

_MG_6230 rowing obstruction_MG_6282 choice of channelsEven Capt. Virginia is now looking forward to getting back onto the canal system. This may have something to do with issues navigating the River Thames, which can be a tad challenging for first timers. First of all, there are frequent side channels which can make it tricky to discern the main channel ahead. On the correct channel there are frequent swarms of rowers/scullers, all of whom are going the way they aren’t looking and many of whom are young, inexperienced, and prone to wandering all over the river. Even the experienced rowers going in a more predictable straight line do so with oars almost as wide as the river. Assuming you manage to avoid the rowing traffic going along the river, there is the occasional sailing club with dinghies tacking [a.k.a. zigzagging] haphazardly back and forth across the river with gay abandon, knowing they are in the right and that it’s up to the 16-ton, 62-foot, slow-to-respond narrow boat to avoid them. The dinghy sailors reminded me of French cyclists who can never be culpable.

We’ll be aiming to go through Teddington Old Lock at about 8:00 AM tomorrow.

Day 10 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring