Decamped

While Francine remains in the UK attending to family business, Franco has been left in Spain holding the baby. The baby in question is el perrito, our friends’ pooch, Scamp. Since Casa Libélule is not particularly dog-friendly, I’ve moved into their house for the duration [a week].

Francine and I have looked after el perrito on many previous occasions but I’m discovering that it is not an easy task single- handed. Getting the car out of the property is a challenge requiring unlocking and opening the gates, driving out, stopping and closing an locking the gates. While I’m doing this, el perrito is constantly dropping a ball at my feet accompanied by an ear-splitting terrier-like yap/bark if I don’t stop what I’m doing to throw his ball quickly enough. Guess who thinks he’s in charge.

At least I’ve cracked the reverse operation of getting back in, which would normally involve the same demanding canine ball retrieving activity. Mercifully, el perrito has taken to getting into the back seat of my car and riding with me as I reverse in through the gates – much easier. Maybe I should start trying to drive him out and cut out the crap with the ball. My eardrums would appreciate that. Barking dogs are bad enough but piercing yaps are horrendous.

J15B0353 Sympetrum fonscolombii maleHaving ball-thrown my way out of the gates today, I took myself off to a marsh at Pego-Oliva to see what entertainment I could find. Not a huge amount in all honesty – a bit disappointing, really. The place is always lousy with Red-veined Darters (Sympetrum fonscolombii) and I soon managed to snag a decent shot of a handsome male.

J15B0359Orthetrum trinacria maleI was most fascinated with a very fast, dark looking dragonfly that was chasing about low down over the water in quite good numbers. I suppose its dark appearance should have given me a clue to its identity but I remained bemused until, part way around my regular circuit of this place, one finally settled in a reasonable location quite close to me. All was revealed: a Long Skimmer (Orthetrum trinacia). It’s still one of those species with which I’m slightly less than familiar. They really are fast little beggars. Maybe I’ll know next time.

J15B0362 Crocothemis erythraea femaleThere were Lesser Emperors (Anax parthenope) cruising above the channels (I think this marsh is a former rice paddy) but they weren’t posing. I spotted a couple of late-ish Common Bluetails (Ischnura elegans), too, and there were Broad Scarlets (Crocothemis erythraea) in reasonable numbers but the only other half-way reasonable photo opportunity was a female Red-veined Darter.

I might try my luck at Gandia tomorrow.

Posted in 2015 Autumn

A Look Upstream

Yesterday I confined my Odo hunting activities to the rock pools in the river as it flows through Jalón itself. With another day of wall to wall sunshine and temperatures topping out at 33°C, I thought I’d try my more usual haunt upstream towards Alcalalí.

My first port of call showed yet more Lesser Emperors (Anax parthenope) and Epaulet Skimmers (Orthetrum chrysostigma) doing what Odos do in the sunshine: hunt for food and couple to reproduce. Those two things are all that’s important biologically, food and sex. Neither species was being particularly cooperative but I did manage a distant shot of a perched Lesser Emperor.

Further upstream I saw more of the same with a scattering of the ubiquitous Red-veined Darters (Sympetrum fonscolombii) thrown in. This spot isn’t a great position for photographs, though, being high and looking down on the subjects.

Still further up was a pool close to my heart because it’s where I first saw a Violet Darter (Trithemis annulata) in Spain. I fought my way through a thicket of bamboo to get there again. Water, water everywhere. Yikes! There was precious little dry land for me to stand on but stand on it I did. Yet more Lesser Emperors and Epaulet Skimmers.

J15B0332 Anax parthenope maleI was keen on the Lesser Emperors, though, because they did seem to be perching every now and then. We have only two photos of them in our collection and good ol’ Francine snagged those. These seemed to perch only briefly, though, and my first attempts to bring the camera to bear were too pedestrian and failed. Eventually, I did see one land but it was behind intervening vegetation. I managed to focus on it and use the vegetation as a sort of old-fashioned centre-spot filter. I liked the effect. So, it seems, do many others ‘cos I got several complimentary web comments. 😉

J15B0337 Anax parthenope ovipositingI stood for some time watching and waiting. I saw what I thought was a couple of paired Lesser Emperors fly past but flight shots proved too difficult. Finally, a pair settled in the water close by and I did manage to capture them ovipositing, albeit with poor lighting conditions. These later turned out to be not Lesser Emperors but Vagrant Emperors (Anax ephippiger). Far from being concerned about my error, I’m delighted not only to have a third new species but also to have captured it on pixels. 🙂

J15B0345 Desert Darter maleI kept watching and eventually called it a day, here. I wanted to go and check on the two new species I’d found yesterday so I returned to the rock pools in town. I soon found my Desert Darter (Sympetrum sinaiticum) and today he was posing much more advantageously. By twisting myself all shapes and getting down low on the rocks, I managed to snag several better shots with a good, clear background.

Of my other new friend, the Orange-winged Dropwing (Trithemis kirbyi), there was today no sign. In fact, there was no activity where I’d found him, yet yesterday there were at least four species at that location. It’s curious how things can be so different on two adjacent and similar days.

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All New

Poor Francine has had to return to the UK for the classic family emergency. I dropped her at Alicante airport last night for a dreadful 11:50 PM flight back to Luton getting in at 1:20 AM. Strewth!. Dropping Francine off went fine but then I managed to miss my north-bound slip road onto the autopista and ended up going south for two more exits before I could turn around. (The first exit muttered things like “A31” and “Madrid” so I thought I should avoid that. Everything looks different in the dark. I flipped a U-turn and got home eventually and Francine was on her way shortly thereafter.

I’m left here with the car and, next week, a dog to look after. It’s a lousy job but someone has to do it. Today I am being descended upon for dinner. Before that, I decided to use the sunshine to investigate the Jalón river for potential Odos.

Since the river was all but dry on our last visit, I was surprised to see a very healthy amount of water. There has been quite a bit of rain in Spain during August, unusually. It’s still more of a series of pools than a flow but it looked quite healthy. So did the Odo populations.

J15B0289 Epaulet Skimmer maleThe first things I spotted were several Epaulet Skimmers (Orthetrum chrysostigma) and a lesser Emperor (Anax parthenope), though the latter was definitely not in the mood for a photograph. Eventually I got a decent shot of the skimmer, though, when one decided to pose with a sense of theatre.

J15B0251 Desert Darter maleA darter caught my eye. There are lots of Red-veined Darters (Sympetrum fonscolombii) around but this looked more like a Common Darter (Sympetrum striolatum) but a little different. I snagged it on pixels and dared to dream what it might be. Sure enough, I’d had my first ever brush with a Desert Darter (Sympetrum sinaiticum). I know it’s sad but I was beside myself.

J15B0300 Orange-winged Dropwing maleI came to Spain this time with a target in mind, intent on making up for what has been a lousy summer in northern Europe. I wanted to see an Orange-winged Dropwing (Trithemis kirbyi). I had even researched a place just north of Valencia, about two hours away, where I might find them. As it turned out, there, just down the Jalón river a little way and perching, as advertised, on a rock beside the water, was a delightfully bright orange-winged creation. I had my second new species of the day, the one I was after, right on my doorstep. Ecstatic!  Ground shots aren’t the best but this seems to be what this species likes to do.

I returned to push my luck even further by preparing dinner for 6 using a recipe I’d never done before on a bit of cooking kit I’d never used before. It all seemed to go swimmingly well, I’m relieved to say.

Posted in 2015 Autumn

New Cooking Kit

Casa Libelule is an electricity-only property so cooking is a bit of a frustration, electric hobs being what they are. So, as well as a BBQ, which really needs to be gas to avert any fire risk in the tinder-box-dry Spanish hillsides, I was interested in a flexible cooking solution [arghhhh!]. Space is another issue in that we don’t have much. There are plenty of gas BBQs around but most are rather large on trolley devices and they don’t do much else. I settled upon a Cadac Carri Chef which is very popular amongst the camping community, these days.

Though I’m not sure I’d want to cart this much kit around with Guillaume, it is compact and performs a variety of cooking tasks, coming with a pot stand, a ridge BBQ surface and a so-called chef’s pan (flat surface). As an option, I’ve also bought the paella pan so this should now do both BBQs and paellas.

We carried it out in the car and it is now assembled. My next task was to equip it with a gas supply. I’d already bought a 12.75Kg butane cylinder for our room heater but I didn’t want to keep disconnecting and moving that, so I went to the local garage for a second cylinder. 12.75Kgs is a lot of gas for a BBQ but the only smaller option would apparently be the exhorbitantly expensive small Camping Gaz cylinder of about 2Kgs (it’s about the same price, I was told).

I went to the local garage to fill out the required paperwork. When I bought my first cylinder, I thought that was cheap at a shade under 18€. I nearly fainted buying this second cylinder – the price has dropped to about 13€. 13€ for 12.75 kgs! In the UK, the Calor gas maffia charge £20 for just 6kgs of propane. That’s about four times the price.

CadacAnyway, here it is neatly tucked into the corner of our balcony, all set up and ready for its first trial with friends tomorrow evening.

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Posted in 2015 Autumn

Temporary Neighbour

I’ve received our latest electricity bill. When I looked at it I was a little taken aback since the 43€ amount related to two months when the property would have been completely empty with the mains power turned off. The thought of entering into a discussion with the Spanish supplier to get to the bottom of what I thought might be an error was too much. We printed off the bill and tried examining it. Sure enough, at the bottom, we spotted a line that stated, “Consumption: 0 Kwh”. Francine scanned the rest of the bill and we came to the conclusion that this effectively constitutes a standing charge for the 2-month period. Oh well, que sera, sera.

Before the bill examination, though, I tromped around the bottom of our block intent on gaining access to the meter cabinet wondering if I might learn something. I did – I learned that the meter cabinet is not locked but is nonetheless an absolutely bitch to open, a screwdriver being required to jemmy it. Having jemmied my way in, I stared at an array of electricity meters, the labels for which seemed largely hidden by the meters themselves. I remained none the wiser.

J15B0241 Ant-lionFrancine did however, spot a critter clinging to the outside wall of our neighbour’s property. We’d seen one of thee little curiosities once before only, in France. Our previous encounter meant, however, that we recognized it straight away. This was an Ant-lion. The French campsite owner when we spotted our first one, muttered “libelule” [dragonfly] which, of course, I now know that it wasn’t. Ant-lions get their name form their grubs, which have a habit of digging a sand pitfall trap for ants. The grub sits at the bottom and waits for lunch to slip down the sides of the trap towards its waiting jaws. Charming. The winged adult looks much less deadly.

Our new temporary neighbour was a different species, possibly Myrmeleon inconspicuus but don’t quote me. It’s certainly different from my French one ‘cos it has completely clear wings, other than the venation.

Posted in 2015 Autumn

Blessed Terra Firma

We’re bound for Spain again. It’s been a long time since the British summer, which was 9th, 10th & 11th July – there’s been two months of cloud since then – and we’re keen to get there.

Car ready loaded overnight, we were on the road at 5:00 AM. Other than a short traffic jam on the M27 caused by the morning rush hour into at Solent Business Park exit, our journey down to Portsmouth was smooth. Boarding was smooth, if a little laboured – these are not roll-on-roll-off ferries and loading is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle. We left Portsmouth at 11:30-ish and proceeded in a very smooth fashion west down the English Channel. Our progress was so smooth, the deck rail was hardly moving off the horizon line. We ate dinner with relative gusto and shortly retired.

I knew the hitherto smooth nature of my life was about to change when, from the comfort of my bed, I heard the ship’s PA system announce something along the lines of, “move around the ship only if necessary and with caution” and “outside decks are now out of bounds”. We’d entered the Bay of Biscay and it was clearly about to be living up to its unenviable reputation.

My bed began to lurch disturbingly. Our cabin was at the sharp end, aligned with the long axis of the ship. As the disturbance increased, my bed began to feel as though it was corkscrewing its way down the west coast of France. I seemed to be about half conscious, not from passing out but from the remnants of my initial sleep. We’d taken our Stugeron and for the most part I seemed to be able almost to zone out and I actually didn’t feel too bad, just a little distressed. Francine decided now was a good time to speak to me. My zoning out was destroyed and I became more acutely aware of my bed’s corkscrewing motion; decidedly unpleasant. Warning sensations in my stomach made me feel as if I wasn’t going to make it after all. Somehow I managed to regain my state of semi-consciousness, though. A while later, for some reason I became uncomfortably too conscious once again. Again I felt as thought I wasn’t going to make it. Oh good grief, I’d got about eight more hours of this to go through unless by some act of mercy the Bay of Biscay calmed itself down. Needless to say, it didn’t calm itself down. Boats really are a disgusting mode of transport.

Somehow the purgatory of the night passed and, as we began to approach Bilbao on the northern coast of Spain, the surface of the sea settled back into something approaching acceptable. By some miracle, I’d managed to hang on to my cookies. I was relieved to enter the confines of the harbour. 30 minutes later – yes, it takes that long to get into the berth itself – we docked and, after undoing the loading jigsaw puzzle, we drove off and I was again on blessed terra firma. Spanish immigration was even ready for us and we sailed through and onto Bilbao’s manic spaghetti-junction-like road (so-called) system.

Boats and I don’t mix. I really should avoid them. I’ll try not to spend the next five weeks fretting about our return journey.

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Posted in 2015 Autumn

Premature Evacuation


The rain which returned yesterday late afternoon remained with us overnight. Today’s weather guess was for a brighter afternoon but instead we’ve got clouds descending ever lower and further rain, originally on and off, now seemingly persistently. With weather forecasts this good, I really don’t know why they bother issuing any. Their guess for Saturday and Sunday is for continued rain, mostly heavy with some lighter spells, but rain all day both days nonetheless. There is only so much entertainment one can derive from sitting inside Guillaume, delightful though he is. Sudokus all begin to look the same after an hour or so. The prospect of two more stir-crazy days is too much. We have admitted defeat and have decided to pull out tomorrow. Guillaume is coming home early, tomorrow, Saturday. 

I’ve phoned the Dulverton campsite, which was to be our port of call for next week, and cancelled our reservation. We see no point spending a further £25 a night to watch rain falling.

Drat!

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Posted in 2015 Devon

Leaden Skies

Yesterday’s threat of rain continued into this morning. Hoping that things might be better at the coast and with my wanting to exercise my legs into submission, we headed for Ilfracombe and Torrs Park for another stab at the Coast Path. Irritatingly, off shore the skies were a little brighter (i.e. light grey) but overhead the skies remained leaden. Torrs Park has what appears to be the only free National Trust car park in the vicinity. I’m wondering how people manage to amass enough change to keep feeding the machines at various different car parks. Possibly, though, they tend to just park in one all day long, being more regular beach goers than us. What we want is an hour or two here and there. The Coast path here was pleasant enough but a touch slippery, given the recent rain. It served a purpose and got my legs some exercise, though.

Safely back at the car, Francine was keen to call into the local LIDL. For Francine’s hair, the correct hair goop is critical and LIDL has some that proved successful and at a much lower price than her usual shampoo and conditioner. Whilst there, we tried to get ingredients for dinner at the same time. Dinner, we thought, with a couple of chicken breasts languishing in Guillaume’s fridge, could either be chicken fajitas or a Thai green curry. I began well by finding flour tortillas for fajitas. Now, where were the spices? I found them, such as they were. The LIDL spice selection amounted to little more than pepper, both black and white, hot paprika, dried basil and dried parsley. (Dried parsley is completely useless and should never be used under any circumstances.) There was nothing that one might expect as a spice staple: no ground coriander, no cumin, no cinnamon, no ginger, for example. Neither were there any of those boxed fajita kits that every other supermarket carries and, though there was sour cream, there was nothing resembling guacamole or salsa so I couldn’t do a DIY job. I changed tack, replaced the flour tortillas and started looking for coconut milk for the green curry alternative. Coconut milk? Dream on! So, no chance of any fresh basil and fresh coriander, then. I did, however, rather bizarrely find bottles of pickled ginger for sushi. So, there was little that I would have expected as basic necessities but there were unpredictable things that I would not have expected, being much more specialist. How on earth does anyone shop in a LIDL? A local lady overhead my disparaging remarks and pointed us to a Tesco just out of town. Bliss! Coconut milk, fresh basil, fresh coriander – green curry it is.

The skies remained steadfastly leaden.

Some years ago cars began baring model names featuring punctuation marks. Weird! First, I think, was the ground-breaking Kia Cee’d. What on earth is an apostrophe doing in a car name? Then along came VW with their trendy named Up! I believe there is now a hybrid version called an e-Up!, which, despite my not knowing what the hell an exclamation mark is doing in a car name, I think is brilliant. If there isn’t an e-Up!, there damn well should be. Car names, however, have just been playing catch up with town names. Is there any more curiously named town around than Westward Ho!? There’s a 21A bus that runs crawls through Bottleneck to Westward Ho!, its destination board shouting the fact. For want of something better to do, we went for a look.

_15C2593I’d had visions of salty old square-rigged sailors setting out on Hornblower-like adventures from Westward Ho! It’s the romantic in me. It was surely named in such an age. My romantic hopes, as is so often the case, were dashed. As we approached the front, there was a marked lack of salty old seafarers’ cottages. There was no crumbling harbour in which to hoist any mains’l. What there was a collection of modern looking buildings together with ice cream vendors and fish and chip shops. That stalwart British holiday makers were sitting doggedly on the beach, wrapped up and sometimes behind windbreaks, under those still steadfastly leaden skies.

Westward Ho! itself doesn’t even face west. There is a good length of beach above Westward Ho! that faces west but the town itself does not. if it faces any direction at all, it faces north. If the town was desperate for an exclamation mark, it should have been called Northward Ho! [Now, since the exclamation mark at the end of that sentence is an integral part of the town’s name, featuring even on bus destination boards, how should I correctly finish such a sentence? With a full stop after the exclamation mark? Just a thought.]

Further back along the coast we found Appledore. Appledore was considerably less touristy, having a harbour rather than a beach. Here there were narrow alleyways which might at soem point have seen old salts wandering about. It also sported an appealing Deli with some local cheeses. We bought a couple to try and t headed back through Barnstaple. The rain returned more easily than did we. It was rush hour and Barnstaple was gridlocked. We couldn’t get to the back road that avoids Bottleneck so we had to head for Bottleneck. Mercifully, everyone was now trying to come south through Bottleneck so our northward journey was reasonably pain free.

One of our new local cheeses, Exmoor Blue, tastes the way a cow shed smells. Not my favourite, frankly. Back to Blue Stilton.

Posted in 2015 Devon

Wet

All day.

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Posted in 2015 Devon

Coastal Investigations

The sun was shining again. We headed off to investigate a few coastal spots.

Woolacombe lies to the west of us and sports a wide expanse of sand facing west into any rollers that might have arrived on our shores from the Atlantic. Like its brethren on the north coast of Cornwall, it is a magnet for surfers who seem to find it amusing to paddle away from shore and sit waiting for a decent wave to ride for a couple of seconds. Repeat. Being flat and rather featureless, other than heaving with surfers, It does not form a photographically interesting coastline.

Without pause, we continued north along the coastal road which eventually climbed up into an attractive village called Mortehoe. Mortehoe does not have beaches but cliffs, so is much more our scene. At the entrance to the village car park (£1 an hour) was a sign indicating various walks along to and around said cliffs. We opted for £2-worth to enjoy something we hadn’t really done since we were last in Cornwall, a coast path walk. Still suffering from my accursed plantar fasciitis since December last year, I was a little apprehensive to see how things would go but this is basically something that you simply have to grin and bear. I took a trekking pole to assist.

_15C2558Walking out of the village past the local cemetery overlooking the waves below, I couldn’t help but think that a little more coastal erosion could see these dearly departed soles being buried for a second time … this time at sea. The coastal scenery here was much more breath-taking with cliffs descending to craggy rocks, waves and seagulls crying atmospherically. Sheep, strangely relaxed at our presence, stared at us with an uncharacteristic lack of interest as we passed; whilst not exactly running scared, sheep normally saunter away to gain space. I was doing well on the level and on any descents. The same was not true when it came to climbing back up those descents. Here, it was not my right PF foot that was causing problems but my left knee which began whingeing and feeling a little less than secure. Having had eight months at less than my normal level of activity, various other body parts grumble when pressed into sudden action. Plantar fasciitis really is a bastard condition that western medicine seems powerless to address. Note to self: I really must adopt more of the grin-and-bear it attitude.

Lee, on the northern coast, was another cove that Francine was interested in investigating. We changed out of our walking boots and set off. “There’s a narrow road or a wider road we could go down”, said Francine.  Narrow Devon roads are an education; they are frequently not only narrow, a single track with passing places, but lined with hedgerows hiding unforgiving rock walls. we opted for the wider option. The wider option turned out to be a single track road with the occasional passing place. Most worrying was grass growing down the middle of the road. Beware roads with grass down the middle. Eventually, we arrived unscathed at Lee itself. The car park was full – over full actually, with some plonker parked blocking half the entrance into it and another driver with his hopes dashed reversing back out of it. ‘T was difficult to imagine quite what the alternative narrower road down into Lee might actually have been like but somehow I managed a 3-point turn at the bottom of it so we could retrace our steps and run the single track, grass adorned gauntlet back out. Lined with steep cliffs to the east and west, Lee was such that there’d be no evening light falling into it anyway.

In the early evening we set off to see what Croyde Bay was like. This necessitated going back through Braunton, site of our northbound traffic jam on our way in. Now we hit a southbound traffic jam of half a mile or so on our way out. Eventually we made it to the traffic lights and turned right, a.k.a. west. Now we saw a real traffic jam. Croyde Bay is another surfer magnet. The surfers were largely now heading home, or trying to. They were stuck in another of Braunton’s jams stretching for a mile and a half or so. With just a handful of vehicles getting through the lights on each change, they were going to be there for some time. We have renamed Braunton; it is now called Bottleneck.

It’s damn difficult to get anywhere in this little neck of north Devon. The small roads are little more than cart tracks and the larger roads are clogged with surfers and holiday makers. Croyde Bay was predictably rather uninteresting (unless you are a surfer) and, desperate to avoid another brush with Bottleneck, we picked our way back to Guillaume along some cart tracks.

The walk at Mortehoe had been fun.

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Posted in 2015 Devon