The Missing Charger

In February this year, we embarked on an Explore trip a trip to Namibia. On arrival at Heathrow airport, I had discovered that I’d left our joint camera charger at home. 2-week photographic trip and no charger. Brilliant, Franco!

This time I did better – we have two camera chargers and the cameras are getting almost constant use. We have now been on the road in Australia via Hong Kong for almost two weeks and this morning our electric toothbrush started bleating about needing a charge; two weeks is about its limit. And yes, given the title of this post, you have correctly surmised that there is no sign of the requisite toothbrush charger in our luggage. Brilliant again, Franco!

Francine’s brother Michel likes a challenge; he was immediately onto the Internet looking for replacements. We do have manual backup but six weeks of less effective manual brushing may well leave our dentist grumping at us and, armed with a nasty high speed drill, one really doesn’t want to upset ones dentist. There’s a curiously named store in these parts called The Shaver Shop, a “Personal Grooming Retailer”, where we could get a cheapo Braun electric brush for A$24 [~£15]. That beats £900 for a new Canon camera just to get an suitable charger and besides, we would be able use it in Spain and would no longer have to cart our home electric brush back and forth. The nearest Shaver Shop being in Albury, It was also a darn good excuse to have a day out exploring somewhere new.

Albury is just across the Murray River from Wodonga. In fact, the two cities seem to be treated as one, despite the Murray being the state border between Victoria and New South Wales and the pair being in different states. The drive was almost a straight shot and took us through delightfully rural rolling hills, atypical of what most people’s image of Australia might be. It also left behind the less than settled weather forecast for Stanley; we were enjoying largely blue skies.

[Aside: At this point it is worth noting that satnavs are somewhat less than crucial in this area with its limited set of road choices – if you can’t navigate here by yourself, you can’t navigate your way out of a paper bag. The satnav WAS helpful getting away from Melbourne airport, however, and would doubtless prove useful around Melbourne, again, later.]

Entering Wodonga, we passed sizeable development activity. What surprised us, given the amount of land available in Australia, was the way the new houses were shoe-horned in together. The roofs were damn nearly overlapping. Older developments around here tend to have a couple of acres each. Curious.

We crossed the Murray into NSW to where Michel had directed us to a free parking area. We bailed out and wandered into town where we found the Shaver Shop in a mall. Sure enough, a cheapo Braun electric toothbrush on special set us back a princely A$24. Problem fixed; not my memory, unfortunately, but the lack of toothbrush charger. Assuming I eventually remember to pack it to take it home, of course, I’ll have to change the Australian plug. With teeth happy that we didn’t have to break the bank, we began a more relaxed wander.

Albury has an old Victorian train station – well, it looks Victorian to a self-confessed art numbskull – one of the platforms of which is a kilometre in length. This and the brickwork make for an impressive building.

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_17C7494We paused for lunch at a cafe behind the museum of modern art. Lunch was a modestly sized open sandwich of sprouted rye bread topped with smoked salmon, cream cheese, finely shaved cucumber and some very tasty young radish leaves. Very inventive. Being near a modern art museum the lawn before us was almost inevitably decorated with what I assume was a piece of said modern art in the form of a giant bath plug and chain. Tate Modern, eat your heart out!

J17_3602 Albury DamThe unsettled weather from Stanley could be seen approaching but we had time to investigate the banks of the Murray and some lagoons beside it. This was big water and, apart from birds, we initially saw nothing. Finally though and simultaneously, we both noticed damselflies flitting along the grassy edge of two separate lagoons. Conditions were not the best and access was not great, despite my skipping over the protecting fence to get – tut, tut – but I did get one good shot, and in-cop to boot, of just about the most colourful damselfly I’ve ever clapped eyes on: The descriptively named Red and Blue Damselfly (Xanthagrion erythroneurum). Get your tongue around that binomial.

The skies had been darkening constantly and at last the rain began. We retreated.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Trees Revisited

Our last trip to Australia was in 2001. That was a 4-week trip during which time we were based in Sydney, with Francine’s brother Michel. Our highlight, though, was a 2-week camping trip using his pop-up camper trailer. One place we visited en route was Lake Hume. Lake Hume was created by damming and flooding a valley. Unfortunately, this project was also going to flood the town of Tallangatta so a new town of Tallangatta was built to replace the original. Tallangatta became known as “the town that moved”.

Lake Hume OriginalWhen the water in Lake Hume, a reservoir, is low enough, it is said that some remains of the original Tallangatta can be seen poking above the water. Normally what can be seen are the skeletons of now dead trees. At the time, long before our adopting digital photography, we snapped a rather contre-jour scene across the lake on 50 ASA slide film. Here’s Lake Hume 2001. Memories!

_17C7394Photographers like trees in water as subjects so Francine was keen to return for a repeat visit in 2017 to see how things might have developed in the intervening 16 years. It was about an hour’s drive away. Memories faded by wine and with no Internet on the road, we couldn’t really remember where our original viewpoint had been. The one we eventually found was clearly a bit further right, with a large tree looming that wasn’t in the original; it certainly wasn’t 16 years of growth, either. The comparison gives the general idea, though. It also shows what flexibility a post-processing digital darkroom makes compared to happy snappy film. Here’s Lake Hume 2017.

_17C7415Taking a slightly more circuitous route back, we stumbled across an agricultural scene. It looked very pastoral but also looked as if it could have been almost anywhere in Europe, to me. It is Australia, honestly.

As we neared home base, we dived off sideways back to Woolshed Falls again. Almost as soon  as we parked the car, though, the sun became covered by clouds so there was little in the way of action, save for a pair of Australian visitors, the female partner of which was picking her way over the rocks between the pools dressed in flip-flops and an ankle-length flower print dress. Very practical. I’m clearly letting the side down; I really must try to spruce myself up a bit next time I go climbing up waterfalls hunting odos.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Chinese Burning Towers

A quiet day.

_17C7312Francine had a hankering to visit Beechworth cemetery, where the main attraction seems to be a pair of Chinese Burning Towers. We were accosted by a local who wondered if we had “any rellies” buried in there. “No, just visiting”, we replied. Our new friend was retired but was engaged in research in the cemetery. The cemetery is divided into areas for the many different denominations represented. There are some 2000 Chinese settlers buried here. After a five or ten minute chat, our pal turned us loose and pointed towards the Chinese section where the Burning Towers were located.

_17C7310We found The Chinese Burning Towers easily; they are pretty hard to miss. They date from 1857 and were used for burning paper prayers’’. Meals for the spirits of the dead were provided on the altar (1883) behind the towers . We wandered up through the Chinese section where all the headstones were inscribed with Chinese characters, indecipherable to us despite our recent 3-day stopover in Hong Kong. 😀

_17C7313Our new friend reappeared as we were nearing the top of the Chinese section. There was a bit more chat before he keenly pointed out the gravestone of the last Chinese to be buried in the cemetery. It was unusual; one might say unique. It reads:

AH YETT Died at Reeds Creek 31st July 1932

What was unusual? The inscription on this gravestone was written in English. “Do you know why it was written in English?”, asked our new pal. “Being the last Chinese buried, there was no one left who could write Chinese script.” He uses that when he’s talking to school kids.

J17_3504 Austrolestes leda maleWe returned via another small dam in Stanley. Completely unexpectedly, this small dam yielded an additional damselfly species. Identifying it was a bit of a conundrum. It was what Francine would call “a blue-striped pyjama job”. In the UK, these are of a particular couple of genuses. I searched the Australian species in those similar genuses without success. Then I noticed a feature that made me suspect this new characters true genus. Bingo!  A Wandering Ringtail (Austrolestes leda).

Stanley itself is now my highest scoring site with six species. That was unexpected.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

A Chance Encounter

Gapsted-VinesMichel had suggested Sunday lunch on the deck of Gapsted Winery. Their website does a much more comprehensive job of explaining what’s what than I could here, so go look. Suffice to say that they make “cool climate” wines in “Australia’s Alpine Region”. Right. Michel is a member of their club and it looked like a jolly splendid place to while away an hour or two staring at some of their vines from our table.

There is a menu from which you can select individual dishes but Michel, an old hand at this caper, was keen on their degustation menu – three modestly sized courses that might actually leave room for our evening meal. You can choose to have just the food  for A$40 or get a glass of wine chosen to complement each course for A$49. No contest, bring me a drink! Actually, the first drink was a glass of bubbly. Michel, once again being designated driver, had to keep donating alcohol to be shared by Francine and myself. Ahhhh! For those who will undoubtedly ask, here’s the menu. 😉

Gapsted-Menu

And here, just to complete the detail, are the three individual courses that the above menu referred to.

Gapsted-1Gapsted-2Gapsted-3

_17C7253Suffice to say it was an excellent lunch and far from extortionate. All their wines had been good so I couldn’t resist buying a bottle of their Tawny Port to help down some evening cheese. Carrying the port to the car was slightly delayed when Francine was distracted by a Superb Fairy-wren (Malurus cyaneus) which began hoping about the grass near the vines. It was an opportunity too good to miss.

_17C7263_17C7268We made it to the car but our departure was further delayed when progress came to an abrupt halt before getting off the property. Just before reaching the main road, Michel slammed on the anchors. “Echidna!”, he exclaimed, excitedly. Not surprisingly, really, as echidnas are rarely seen and here was one rummaging around on Gapsted’s front lawn right beside us. The echidna began nosing around in the detritus littering the Gapsted sign. I approached cautiously, thinking it would be nervous and wary. It did curl up once or twice, exposing its defensive spines, but essentially kept on with its business despite my watching it. Then, to our joint surprise, Edna Echidna began marching swiftly straight towards Francine.

IMG_2342We thought Edna would veer away as she approached Francine but no, she kept going and headed straight beneath a crouching Francine and between her legs. There she finally stopped, up against her right foot. Now what? After a pause we noticed movement, not forwards or backwards but a sort of shuffling, wriggling movement. Every now and then, we saw one of its powerful digging feet appear from under the skirt of spines. It seemed to be sinking slightly lower in the ground. Yes, it was excavating a hole, immediately beneath Francine. Whether it was beginning to construct a burrow under Francine’s backside or was just digging in search of food (echidnas are ant-eaters, BTW), I know not. We watched chuckling; mesmerized. Francine was besotted, as well she might be. What a privilege.

[Aside: I should just point out that Echidnas are monotreme mammals; that means, not to put too fine a point on it, “one hole for everything”: urinating, defecating and egg-laying (yes, it’s one of those curious egg-laying mammals along with the Duck-billed Platypus). I have no idea how one might actually sex an active, spikey, one-hole-for-everything kind of creature so Edna implies nothing as to gender and was simply a name we couldn’t resist. Edna is a Short-beaked Echidna (Tachyglossus aculeatus). Yes, there’s more than one echidna species, though this is the only species in Australia, I believe.]

Fresh from our chance encounter, a couple in Stanley, friends of Michel, had invited us all around for drinks and nibbles in the later afternoon. Coincidentally, the couple owns a property in Marseillan, one of our favourite parts of France, so it is possible that we may meet again. We sat around a roaring wood fire – it gets cool up here in the evenings – in an open hearth in their garden and passed a very convivial evening in jovial company.

Nothing was going to top Edna Echidna, though. What a thrill.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Into the Mountains

Time to be escorted again. In Stanley, at about 750m elevation, we are already in the high country but Michel had designs to take us up into the really high country. We were heading over 1500m to Mount Buffalo. The drive was 95 km and would take 90 mins, if you went directly there, that is. Naturally we didn’t.

_17C7089The scenery on the way gets quite alpine-looking apart, that is from the fact that the trees tend to be gum trees. I’ve noticed a woeful lack of gum trees in the Austrian alps. Above a certain elevation, as the road winds and twists its way around the side of the mountain, the white lines suddenly switch to yellow. This is because yellow shows up better in snowy conditions whereas white tends to  … well, you get the idea. Part way up we stretched our legs beside a bridge over a stream with waterfalls tumbling down. From here, through the tree canopy we had a glimpse of a more precipitous waterfall near the beginnings of the water course up at the 1500m level where we were heading.

_17C7085Francine, having strappy sandals on her feet, was not dressed for scrambling so I took my life in my hands armed with Francine’s camera and descended a slope of mostly loose-ish soil to get to the stream itself down at our current level. I wasn’t worried so much about falling into the torrent but if I’d damaged Francine’s camera … Luckily all went well. As I was scrambling back up said slippery slope a damselfly unexpectedly landed temptingly on a fern beside me. By the time I’d told Francine, it had performed a very effective disappearing trick.

Chalet at Mount BuffaloAtop Mount Buffalo is a so-called Chalet. I say “so-called” because it’s bigger than anything called a chalet that I’ve ever seen. It was clearly grandiose in its day and is now the subject of some serious restoration work. It remains impressive but apparently lacks some modern tourist expectations, like en suite bathrooms. Michel remembered to snag a picture of it on his phone.

_17C7102Opposite the chalet is the obligatory view point allowing us to look back at the way we had ascended.

_17C7127Having played tourist at the chalet area long enough we drove around on top – it’s a something of a high plateau and found somewhere for a bite of lunch (water bodies but no odos – still too cool up here, I suspect) and paused to take in the atmosphere of an alpine lake that belies the altitude. Does this look as if it’s at 1500m? I think not.

On the way back we called into Bright, which, off season, was a pleasant enough town complete with a grassy recreation area (and a brewery) beside a picturesque river. It was still quite busy now though, so in season, would be absolutely heaving with tourists and would be best avoided, for those who prefer peace and solitude.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Jazz in the Vines

For the last couple of days we have at last been joined in Stanley by Francine’s sister-in-law, Sandrine, who has hitherto been otherwise occupied in Sydney. We’ve had a hoot re-educating her to drink wine instead of fermented tea which is:

  1. as disgusting as it sounds (I tasted it), and
  2. allegedly good for your gut (friendly bacteria, and all that).

Today we were off to continue the vinous education by poisoning a few more friendly bacteria. Between Stanley and the Hume Freeway lies Indigo Vineyard, the owners of which are in the habit of staging lunchtime Jazz in the Vines events. As the title implies there is, of course, music. Food is also available but centre-stage is wine with water provided for the unfortunate drivers.

As the title also implies, these events are usually held amongst the vines of the vineyard. On this occasion, regrettably, there are storms floating around in the forecast so a wary organizer had relocated the event closer to the facilities buildings where a selection of gazebos covering  an array of tables had been erected, just to be on the safe side.

_17C7700We coughed up our A$15 each entrance fee, grabbed a table under a gazebo and sat with our new Australian friends, a couple that have a place at Marseillan in France, who had also pitched up to enjoy the four piece set of musicians entertaining us as we drowned bacteria in alcohol and nibbled. As the sky darkened to several particularly threatening shades of slate grey, we revisited our gazebo decision and grabbed most of another table further under cover in a more substantial building beside the stage.

We were just in time. The wind announcing the storm front blew through. Several other bacteria drowning attendees hung on to their respective gazebos lest they got relocated back to the vines again. The wind was soon accompanied by lashing rain. Good decision, Mr. Organizer.

The music was good, the wine was good and the company was good. What more could one want? Well, some more typical Australian weather and less of a British squall, perhaps. We are 12,000 miles away, after all.

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Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Winton Wetlands

We’re braving a day further afield by ourselves. As we drove in from Melbourne airport along the Hume Freeway, we past an area called the Winton Wetlands, “a wetlands restoration project of national significance” [it says here]. Places with wetland in their title are usually of interest so off we set. It was about a 1-hour drive and, for want of a better target, we headed for what appeared to be a visitor centre on the map.

It didn’t quite make the dizzy heights of a visitor centre, as we would know it. It was basically a car park with a cafe and toilets but, though there were information boards at various points, they all contained a 400-word essay so they’d lost me. Besides, a gale-force wind was blowing so strongly that it was difficult to stand up whilst reading more than a few words. White caps were marching their way across the large water body of Winton Swamp.

J17_3324 Ischnura auroraSimple to assimilate information was scarcer than we’d have liked. For example, we saw a finger sign pointing to “woodland walk”. What there wasn’t was a distance quoted. Neither could we see details of how long the walk might have been once we arrived, assuming we did. We didn’t. We did head off in the direction indicated. though, but progress was admittedly very slow because I was being distracted by odonata, most of which were hunkering down low in the vegetation against the wind. One of them was a gaudy male Aurora Bluetail (Ischnura aurora) which I had been hoping to see.

_17C7030We eventually covered about a mile where Francine ended up playing with some trees with wet feet, too. Still seeing nothing that looked as though it might be the woodland walk, we decided to head back to the meagre information centre/cafe for coffee and a chat. I finally found a map and mentioned dragonflies which, as so often, caused raised eyebrows. [The subtext is usually, “what, not birds?”] I explained the wind that could’ve blown any interesting specimens into the northern hemisphere and asked if the man knew of any more sheltered locations. “Not really”, he replied, “I’ve never known it this windy”. We headed for the worryingly named Boggy Bridge Road.

Having turned off along Boggy Bridge Road, there were some exhibition artworks tagged “Art in the Landscape”. We’d certainly gone the right way; as we stepped out to snag the artworks the wind was noticeably less and Francine’s hair stayed on her head. [Mine, of course, is already missing.] We came across pieces called Martin’s Barge (colourful cows in a floating pen affair), Boggy Bridge Fish Trees (colourful images of fish split across several individual tree trunks) and The CFA Tank (a water tank covered in monochrome portraits). Colourful, one in a black and white sort of way, and quite good fun but, as usual with modern art, one is left wondering why? Well, I am anyway but then I am a self-confessed artistic numbskull.

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J17_3451 UidIn between a couple of these works of art, we found another of nature’s works of art: a dragonfly that looked new to me was zooming about energetically over a small pond. I stalked it for some time, managing a handful of in-flight shots – it showed no signs of pausing. It showed no signs of pausing, that is, until it found a female and mated. The tandem pair began ovipositing just a short distance from me. A static shot at last.

Avoiding a road recommended only for 4×4 vehicles, we made our way back over safer gravel tracks for a well earned libation.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Milawa Gourmet Region

It does rain in Australia. Today we’ve got clouds and occasional rain, some of it quite heavy. Still, we are in Victoria’s high country and it is early spring. Michel said he’d distract us with a guided tour.

40 kms west of Stanley, where we are based, is Milawa, the so-called Milawa Gourmet Region. I suspect that it is self-styled. Here, there is a concentration of various gastronomic businesses offering tastings. A tourist can hop from one to another sampling and, of course, buying. 🙂

An enjoyable 30-minute drive through the picturesque countryside in these parts got us to our first port of call, The Milawa Cheese Company. According to Michel, this place is usually heaving. However, on this wet day out of the main tourist season, we were able to enjoy a relaxed cheese tasting, conducted by an attractive young lady, all by ourselves. We were led through goat cheeses and blues, in an order that didn’t confuse the palate, very much like wine tasting. We bought some soft creamy goat, some hard goat with a texture similar to parmesan, and some 3-month matured blue that had a very rounded flavour. Excellent use of money. 😉

Next stop was Milawa Mustards. Here, an ex-Brit from the northeast had about a dozen mustards arranged in a sequence from mild to fierce, that you could help yourself to and taste on cracker fragments. They were pleasant enough and may well have been fine mustards but they were all wholegrain mustards [he couldn’t afford the type of grinder that is required to produce finely ground, smooth mustard, I overheard] which I find a limited use for. Michel bought a jar but we skipped it.

Still House SignStill HouseOK, we’ve done various wine tastings before but they are just for wimps. Up next was something that sounded much more interesting for real men. We were off to Hurdle Creek Still where we indulged in a gin tasting. The couple running it were very informative and entertaining. They had apparently considered distilling whisky but that needs maturing for a minimum of two years so there’s a long lead time before any return after ones investment. You can start selling gin much more quickly so there’s much less waiting for any profit. Sensible chaps. I was happy ‘cos I’m not a great whisky fan anyway, preferring clearer, cleaner-tasting spirits. There was a basic gin with an array of botanicals on show (containing a few red herrings to obscure the actual recipe). I skipped the cask strength version – I find that just too much alcohol to be enjoyable. There was a Dutch-style Jeneva, too, along with a cherry gin, similar to a sloe gin, I suppose. There was another but I can’t for the life of me remember what it was. Gin’ll do that to you. Francine and I enjoyed it, as did Michel but, being the designated driver, he was forced into modest restraint; he did buy a bottle of the regular gin to take home, though.

Gamze SmokehouseBack in central Milawa, we popped into Gamze Smokehouse for lunch. It had opened just a week earlier, which is often a good time in a food business’s life to try it. We opted for a sharing platter of smoked tasters washed down with a beer. Australian beer all seems to be designed for warmer weather – crisp, light and refreshing. I’m finding I could do with something a little more chewy. Still, it washes the food down.

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Yackandandah

Yackandandah is a nearby 1-street town, another historic gold mining village with a quaint western feel. We were out unescorted for the first time. Scary stuff. We found a place to abandon our rental ship and wandered up and down both sides of the single street. There is a fair collection of coffee shops together with the usual bric-a-brac/antique (i.e. junk) shops in the mix of businesses, some of which looked as if they would benefit from some TLC but a visit made a pleasant little interlude. The best way to describe this is to let a few pictures do the talking.

_17C6881_17C6882_17C6905J17_3201 Yackandandah shop

_17C6893One curiosity that kept Francine distracted for some time was a series of colourful flaking wooden picture frames artfully arranged in an old, weathered wooden wagon, seen in one of the pictures above.

J17_3223 Austroargiolestes icteromelas maleJ17_3232 Austroargiosletes icteromelas femaleWhat kept Franco amused for some time was Commissioner’s Creek, flowing through the village, where I found a few more mature examples of my Australian odo, the Common Flatwing (Austroargiolestes icteromelas). Here, there were some females, as well as males, so now I had the set.

J17_3254 Orthetrum caledonicumAll this tourism and odo-hunting forced us into the Yackandandah Hotel to refresh our feet, trigger fingers and eyeballs before making our return trip to Stanley via Beechworth Historic Park, through which is a narrow one-way road. Michel had driven us through towards the end of yesterday’s return trip so we’d know where we were going when we visited alone. Here, there is Spring Creek, a waterfall area I’d been told about by my Australian dragonfly e-contact. There’s room to park just two or three cars near the bridge over the falls but fortunately there was just one car there already so we managed to get parked. Actually, I’d have preferred no cars to be there ‘cos this one car had clearly delivered a pair of boisterously noisy rugrats that were now splashing in the waters of the falls. Nonetheless, a moderately gentle scramble upstream, beyond the parents of the noise generators, got us to some more gently flowing, calmer odo territory away from said rugrats. Here, we found the same three suspects we’d met at Woolshed Falls, yesterday, plus a new friend: a Blue Skimmer (Orthetrum caledonicum).

We left the odos to their basking away from the rugrats and, on our way back home, called in to another newish water body that Michel had introduced me to: the Stanley Barge Dam/Wetlands Project. A cyclist had beaten us to it. In the conversation that followed we discovered this gentleman had recently completed a cycle ride across Australia from Perth. Double YIKES! Spotting the camera slung across my shoulder on a monopod, “what are you looking for”, he enquired. “Dragonflies”, I responded. “Oh, I haven’t seen any”, he informed. Whoosh! “There goes one”, I smiled, pointing. How many times does that happen? People just tend not to see dragonflies.

_17C6939 Diplacodes bipunctataIt was a good stop to have made; a red job that I foolishly assumed would be the same red job we’d already encountered at Woolshed Falls actually turned out to be a new suspect. Meet the Red Percher (Diplacodes bipunctata).

Time for a beer or two to celebrate another two new friends. 😉

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes

Beechworth Intro

We are based in Stanley, Vic. Stanley is a small village containing what we’d think of as a village store and a pub (apparently with a less than jovial barman). The nearest town to source supplies is Beechworth, about 10kms distant. Francine’s brother, Michel, took us down to introduce us to it by means of a walking tour.

Beechworth is a cruciform town with a roundabout at the centre of its four arms, each arm being roughly ¼ mile long. The arms of the cross are lined with angled parking bays on each side. Out of tourist [known as terrorists in these parts] season, the town is calm and parking is easy. We swung into a free parking bay and took to Shanks’s Pony.

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Now, this is wine country with valleys that make so-called cool climate wines. What it used to be was Ned Kelly country. Ned Kelly was the infamous bushranger [an Australian outlaw] portrayed by Mick Jagger on the silver screen. Ned’s trademark suit of armour weighing over 90lbs is on display in one of the associated museum exhibits in Beechworth. You can walk into the small lock up where Ned was held in 1871 awaiting trial. We poked our noses in as we wandered up and down both sides of each of the four cross roads. The architecture feels quite old western, in a way, though there is some use of ornate wrought iron work on balconies that I don’t think the outlaw Josey Wales would have seen.

As a bit of a foodie, some of the produce available in Beechworth was the most interesting to me. There was a great butcher, who also would take orders for fresh fish according to availability. We got some very tasty lamb chops for today and ordered some fish called Flatheads for the following day. The vegetables in the greengrocer were all locally sourced and stunningly tasty. I was particularly enamoured of the sweet red peppers which must be the best I’ve tasted. I may well be looking for an excuse to use more of those – a man can’t have too many red peppers. 😉

Almost inevitably, our walking tour finished in a local bar to refresh our feet and legs.

_17C6871Much refreshed, Michel was keen to help with a wandering dragonfly enthusiasts desire to look for a few new friends on a new continent. He drove us on to a local R&R spot called Woolshed Falls where there is also a waterfall that might provide some entertainment for Francine, too.

J17_3124 Austroargiolestes icteromelas maleI know it’s quite early in the dragonfly season, this being early spring Down Under, so I wasn’t necessarily expecting to see very much, if anything. However, as I gingerly picked my route over some of the smoothed rocks beside the water course, a damselfly did flutter into a bush in front of me. I lost track of it. Fortunately, it reappeared and I kept track of it as it alighted in another bush. My first ever Australian odo was an immature Common Flatwing (Austroargiolestes icteromelas).

J17_3140 Hemicordulia tauFurther exploration revealed a dragonfly patrolling up and down a narrow water course. It flew constantly and never seemed to rest – nothing unusual. Following the watercourse upstream, we came across a calmer pool where a couple of individuals were flying back and forth. Yet again they were flying constantly without any sign of rest. An in-flight shot was the only option. This, my first Australian Anisoptera, is a so-called Tau Emerald (Hemicordulila tau).

J17_3167 Diplacodes haematodesAs Francine was investigating the water fall, I found a second pool and a third new Australian friend. This gaudy red character is a Scarlet Percher (Diplacodes haematodes).

My thanks are due to a local contact, Reiner, for help with confirming/correcting my dragonfly identifications. Concerned about luggage space and weight, as well as wondering how much use it might be given the earliness of the season, I did not bring my field guide. Whoops! 🙂

Posted in 2017 Australia, 2017 The Antipodes