Guillaume Goes to Brighton

After a three year absence, we are finally bound for France once again . We had planned to go in September 2017 but that didn’t work out.  Now we are finally using that ferry booking, rescheduled, of course.

We are trying something new, forsaking our usual Dover-Calais crossing with frequent sailings from which to choose and instead going on the Newhaven-Dieppe route now run by DFDS. There are three sailings a day only one of which was attractive to us; the 09:00 departure from Newhaven would take four hours and get us into Dieppe at 14:00 local time, so we’d be on the road by 14:30 with luck. With a mere 40 kms to drive to get to our favourite inbound campsite at Neufchâtel-en-Bray, we’d have plenty of time to top up with both fuel and supplies at the nearby Leclerc.

An 09:00 departure means checking in at 07:30. We could have left home at 04:30 I suppose but that really wasn’t an appealing prospect so we booked into the Brighton Caravan Club campsite [sorry, it’s now called the Caravan and Motorhome Club campsite] which is just 30 minutes away from Newhaven. We could leave there at 07:00. Better.

That was our plan. Everything went swimmingly, barring the usual clag-ups on the jaM25 to get to the M23/A23 past Gatwick to Brighton. I still cannot believe the traffic on our roads at 11:00 on a Wednesday; four lanes of traffic solid in both directions and occasionally stationary. Where in the name of Satan is everyone going at 11:00 midweek? Anyway, we got to Brighton at ~13:00 and checked in. The site is at the east end of Brighton. Salubrious, the area is not but the campsite was fine; busy but fine.

Swimmingly went out of the window as I began pitching up. Guillaume needed levelling so I towed him up our ramp. Francine wedged him and I began unhitching. Sadly I didn’t complete unhitching. I’d disconnected the power cables but, for some unaccountable reason I’d forgotten to detach the breakaway cable. A graunching noise alerted me to my error as I tried to drive the car away forwards. Panic struck and like an idiot I reversed a little, stuffing Guillaume’s drawbar, which had followed me part way before the breakaway cable broke, through the rear bumper of the car. “Bother!”, said Pooh, crossly. Egg all over face together with a broken breakaway cable. Oops! I’d better exchange my 30-year membership window sticker for a “Complete Bloody Novice” sticker.

Long story short: I found a supplier with a new breakaway cable for a stonking £2.99 but could not, for the life of me, see how one managed to fit it without special equipment. I’ve Jerry-rigged the old one. Fortunately the damage to the car was less than it might have been: I had pushed in a black plastic panel which was push-fit. After a struggle I finally managed to push-fit it back into place. What a dampener that put on proceedings, and after such a good start, too.

Maybe a photographic excursion would lift our mood. Some years ago one of Brighton’s two piers, the West Pier, was sadly destroyed by fire. The framework wreckage still sits in the sea and is, perhaps, more iconic now as a photographic subject than it ever was before. Naturally the tide tables were against us with low tide being at 19:00 but Francine fancied a go anyway so we headed out sooner rather than later. We arrived at 16:45. I bought a parking ticket as Francine set off with camera , filters and tripod.

Conditions were not great, either: fog banks were drifting around. As he arrived, the pier was clear but fairly soon it all but disappeared into one of the moving fog banks. It was all very ethereal.

_18C2899

A Carte d’Or ice cream each didn’t go amiss, either. £2.50 each. Damn, almost as much as my replacement breakaway cable which needed engineering.

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Posted in 2018 France

Three New Species

For our April 2018 count, that is.

On a pleasant Saturday with a little cloud cover that appeared to be clearing, we headed back to my favourite close spot for dragonflies, the Marjal de Pego-Oliva.Francine had seen a new spot with a bird hide that could be worth investigating. “Why not?”, we thought.

J18_1970  Crocothemis erythraea maleWe parked at a gravel lane and set off on foot down the 800m track to towards the bird hide. First species encountered was the ubiquitous Common Bluetail (Ischnura elegans). Shortly afterwards, though, we saw our first couple of “crocs”, Broad Scarlet (Crocothemis erythraea). I took some time snagging a fluttery immature male, not yet red. The poor thing had one malformed wing, its right fore-wing, which probably explained its apparent reluctance to fly far.

J18_1973  Trithemis annulataJ17_1564  Trithemis annulataFurther on I spotted what I assumed to be another but, once seen through my lens, this was obviously another immature male, this time a magnificently perfect Violet Dropwing (Trithemis annulata). I just love these characters and the dramatic colour change that the males go through to get to their mature gaudy pink is quite startling. [The mature pink male is from last year.]

J18_1983  Don't grab the odosOnce we got to the boardwalk leading to the bird hide, things quietened down a little; there were certainly no birds from which to hide. Most of our interest had been along the track leading to it. The boardwalk was very well done, though. We were particularly taken with his sign encouraging observation without interference.

J18_1985  Aeshna isocelesWe returned to the car to transfer to the parking spot for our favourite river on the northern boundary of the reserve. Actually, this proved strangely quiet. There was no sign of either of those two new species that we’d seen on the way to the bird hide, oddly. Conditions were quite windy, though. What we did see was a Blue Emperor (Anax imperator) which occasionally took a dive at a patrolling Green-eyed Hawker, a.k.a. Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isoceles). Neither this one, nor any of the other 10 or so that we saw, were intent on settling so it was in-flight or not at all.

I had been wondering if we’d see Green-eyed Hawkers before we returned home and so we did. Always a delight.

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

Trithemis kirbyi at Jalon

This is just a brief note to log the appearance of another species.

We were bound for a long lunch with friends starting at 13:00, so there was little to be done beforehand. We did, however, pop down into Jalon for some supplies and, because the sun was shining, I checked out the ford pool at the local river. We soon spotted something bright red disappearing downstream away from us. I stood watch while Francine went to retrieve my camera from the car. [Anyone would think I’d planned to see something.]

J18_1965  Trithemis kirbyiFrancine returned and so did the dragonfly. I had expected to be staring at a Broad Scarlet (Crocothems erythraea) but was a little surprised to find myself confronted by a beautiful Orange-winged Dropwing (Trithemis kirbyi). Both species are bright red with yellow wing patches but the Dropwing has much larger wing patches. This was the only picture I managed; my subject seemed particularly nervous.

This was the first I’d seen of it but being fully coloured – the males start out yellow and turn red – it must have been around for a few days, lurking somewhere.

Lunch was fabulous, a real tour de force, something of a sampler menu, all courses having a Moorish/middle eastern slant. Very moreish. 😀

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

Surprise Serapia

Francine and I popped in to Calpe to see how the Las Salinas lagoon might be doing. There’s been quite a bit of development going on around it and the ground seems to be suffering, partly from being churned up and partly from discarded rubble. Things appeared a little worse when we arrived.

There was also a old palm tree that, standing taller than other vegetation, served as a useful landmark when searching for the start of the one modest boardwalk. It seemed to be dying on our last visit, presumably from being attacked by the accursed imported red weevil. It was now completely dead; a sad loss.

J18_1947  Sympetrum fonscolombii femaleMaybe because there were few flowers, given the churned up ground, there was a distinct lack of butterflies, though one or two flitted by. Things were quiet until Francine spotted a female Red-veined Darter feeding beside the track near the lagoon side. She looked very fresh, unsurprisingly at the beginning of the season.

J18_1952  Serapias parvifloraWe were really here looking for signs of Bee Orchids at a spot we knew there to be a small colony. What Francine found sent her over the moon. There were no signs of her Bee Orchids, though it is very early for them, but there were a couple of stems of an orchid completely new for us, what we believe is a Small-flowered Serapia or Small-flowered Tongue-orchid (Serapias parviflora). Certainly, the flowers were diminutive, being less than a centimetre each. The stems stood about 12cms high, I’d say. You can’t beat something completely new. 🙂

Near the dead palm tree site, Francine did find some signs of orchids past on ground that we had not previously searched so this was noted for earlier in another year.

J18_1959  Sympetrum fonscolombii maleOn our way back out of the walk, we spotted a maturing male Red-veined Darter – maturing because it is not yet quite fully red. It wasn’t far from the female, who was still on station, so let’s hope that they manage to get together. 😉

With a new orchid for the collection, we left very happy campers despite the worrying problems that Las Salinas might be experiencing. We’ve since seen some mention of plans for better footpaths so maybe things will improve.

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

El Cau

El Cau is one of the mountains siding our Spanish valley. I don’t really know the pronunciation but given the way this walk began, El Cow would be appropriate; it started heading upwards immediately and that’s the way it continued.

We were out once again with our Monday walking group and El Cau was our target. The initial section on an inclined stony track was not the most pleasant but once we hit the mountain path proper, consisting of classic Spanish rocks, the climbing was at least more enjoyable. I’d have been better without quite so much wine on Sunday evening but social occasions do tend to involve that. Eventually my lungs settled down but not before requesting a transplant into another more sedentary body.

J18_1942  BerniaThere were three summits on what was apparently our 600m ascent, though estimates vary. My lungs say they are in the 600m camp. The weather was sunny but hazy so distance shots were not greatly successful. The weather was very windy, too, and I had to abandon my trusty Tilley hat in favour of a more secure Buff. Just for the record, given the conditions, here’s what we ended up looking at from the final summit of El Cau: the ridge in the distance is the Bernia.

J18_1931  ExposedFor something a little different, I tried snagging a plant looking precariously positioned and dwarfed by the landscape beyond. Precarious it may have been but it seemed to be surviving the gusty winds up top.

Our descent was a bit a of a scratchy slog along a narrow track lined with what we suspect is Kermes Oak (Quercus coccifera), A decidedly prickly oak which seems often to be quite low-level. It was made worse by one patch of ground depositing a few of those infernal tick creatures on a couple of our number. Underhand little blighters but having spotted them everyone was vigilant. They didn’t lighten the mood on the way down, though.

We made it and seem to be tick free. Our lungs may have recovered but beer was definitely needed to help the throats recover.

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Posted in 2018-04 Spain

A Few Bernia Orchids

We had a quick excursion up to the Bernia basecamp which is another one of Francine’s orchid hunting grounds. Cutting a longer story short, our visit was also relatively curtailed because there really wasn’t as much as we had come to expect at this time of year. Just one of those seasons, maybe.

J18_1924  Ophrys scolopaxAt a few of our usual spots we drew a blank. One side track, however, did produce results. Standing proud and apparently alone was a very neat example of of A Woodcock Orchid (Ophrys scolopax).

J18_1920  Ophrys fusca (group)Before finding the Woodcock, we had seen a few Dull or Sombre Ophrys (Ophrys fusca), perhaps not in their peak condition, but we finally ran into quite a colony of them further along the track.

So, not the most successful of visits but interesting in that some of our previously more reliable spots had produced a blank.

Variable stuff, nature.

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

Els Arcs Nature

During our winter trip to Spain, my right leg suffered from what I believe was an attack of housemaid’s knee. Being an overuse injury, this was likely caused by an over-zealous return to walking in the mountains. A calmer approach to walking during the remainder of that trip to Spain did seem to begin easing it. I am happy to say that the relative inactivity imposed by a so-called English spring appears to have completed the repair and my knee no felt able to return to some enjoyable Spanish walks. I’ll try and take it more gently for this reprise.

_18C1779One of our favoured more gentle walks is a circuit between Castell de Castells and Tarbena. We are in to orchid season and, this walk usually producing some subjects, Francine was keen to check it out. I took my camera along, too, just in case any butterflies posed favourably in the mountain meadows or trackside scrub. This may give a sense of why we like being there.

_18C1631Upon our arrival, it looked as though a walking group might have beaten us to it; there were five or so cars already there. Happily we found room for our rental and set about searching, starting with a few spots that were known to us. There are orchids on the rocky ground right beside the parking area at the beginning of the route, like this Woodcock Orchid (Ophrys scolopax).

_18C1714_18C1728A couple of hundred metres further along the track Francine was a little surprised to find a remaining Giant Orchid (Barlia robertiana), surprised because she thought they were all finished. This one was going over but still worth recording. Standing close by was what looks like a very fresh example of a Man Orchid (Orchis anthropophora), with only the lower blooms out.

_18C1720Leaving Francine snapping the Giant and Man Orchids, I wandered off up a woodland track. A sunny glade looked interesting and, sure enough, there I found a small colony of Orchis olbiensis, something new to me and an orchid for which we haven’t yet found a common name, though it used to be lumped in as a subspecies of Early Purple Orchid (Orchis mascula). It now enjoys existence in its own right. Bloody taxonomists.

_18C1769Part way around our loop we took a side track down towards a font and here we ran into a plentiful collection of Yellow Ophrys (Ophrys lutea). With their sunny disposition, these really are delightful little plants.

Here was a classic example of why a camera in rucksack is bugger all good when ones favoured subject is not a plant rooted to the spot. A Southern Scarce Swallowtail (Iphiclides feisthamelii) posed perfectly but quite unexpectedly on a bramble stem. Naturally, it scarpered as I was opening my rucksack. Lesson learned, the camera now assumed its usual position on my monopod over my shoulder – just in case.

J18_1902  Spanish FestoonGood decision, Franco. Although it would have been nice to snag my Southern Scarce Swallowtail, I could regard that as a nice to have, since I already have them in my collection. I would have been pig sick if I had missed what fluttered into view next. I swear my heart missed a beat. I chased the first one for some time, never really getting a clear shot. I wasn’t really satisfied. Mercifully, a little further on a second example posed more favourably. This is something I’ve always wanted, a Spanish Festoon. I did actually get one in Andalucia two years ago but that fleeting specimen had its wings closed. Now they were open.

_18C1700Once the Spanish Festoon disappeared we were free to continue. Or final patch was the mother lode of more Yellow Ophrys but with a handful of Dull Ophrys (Ophrys fusca) plants scattered about for good measure.

Francine was happy with her collection of six orchids on the day and I was certainly happy to finally snag a Spanish Festoon with its wings open. No wonder we like this walk.

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

Clot de Galvany

I’ve been keeping an eye on the weather forecast to try and time a run down to see hw wildlife is doing at the Parque Natural el Hondo, south of Alicante. Today looked good so we left around 09:00, which would put us at Hondo by about 10:30.

Things looked quiet at first with just Common Bluetails (Ischnura elegans); swarms of ‘em but “just” Common Bluetails. Then, from right beside the lake, I scared a darter up into its maiden flight. At this time of year it just had to be a Red-veined Darter (Sympetrum fonscolombii) but I followed it and snagged it just to conform what I already knew.

With Francine rapidly passing through the hot spot for mosquitos, we wandered along the excellent boardwalk with nothing further of interest.. On our return trip Francine did spot a lonely single Lesser Emperor (Anax parthenope) but it disappeared before I could see it.

J18_1876  Sympetrum fonscolombii femaleThe mudflats on the other side of the lake produced more immature Red-veined Darters but that was essentially it for our visit. The species were not surprising but I really expected to see more activity, particularly on the Emperor front.

I had been planning to investigate a new location that was apparently home to Winter Damsels (Sympecma fusca), the Lagunas de Rebassa, just inland from Alicante. However, examining the map, Francine found another spot intriguingly named the Clot de Galvany. The size of water looked favourable and it was quite close so we headed for that instead.

Finding the entrance was a challenge. A sign on the perimeter fence proclaimed pedestrian access in 50m. We missed it. After a few hundred metres we backtracked. We’d missed it because it was beside a vehicle access but hidden behind the hedge. Duh!

J18_1882 Orthetrum cancellatum maleJ18_1885 Sympetrum fonscolombiiOnce inside, the habitat looked good. Unfortunately for dragonfly hunters, the smaller water bodies are surrounded by dense wattle fences so viewing and access were impossible. This was clearly managed with birdlife and twitchers in mind: a single bird hide built into the otherwise solid fencing enabled viewing at each pond; viewing of birds, that is. The odos are clearly a side issue; only if they fly in front of the bird hide are you able to see them. A mature Red-veined Darter did pose in the right location and a couple of Black-tailed Skimmers landed on the ground outside the water body. Unsurprisingly, the usual Common Bluetails and Lesser Emperors also put in appearances. Nice place but better viewing facilities for odos, please.

On our way back towards Jalón, we did make an exploratory exit of the autovia at Alicante looking for the Lagunas de Rebassa. However, missing the correct traffic light controlled junction, we got tied in a maze of one-way streets and failed to find our way through to the site. At least we know where we went wrong, though.

Next time, perhaps.

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

Season’s First

The sun was shining in a clear blue sky; my favourite conditions. We thought we could try our usual leg-loosening walk up to the cross above and behind Senija, but we began by calling into a breakfast bar in Jalon for coffee and tostadas con tomate – toasted baguette spread with crushed tomato and drizzled with olive oil and salt. By the time we got there it would do us for brunch.

Before continuing to Senija it would be rude not to check out the local river to see if any odonata might yet have put in an appearance. At first things look quiet but clambering up to an access point to overlook a back pool, I was delighted to see a Blue Emperor (Anax imperator) cruising back and forth. He wasn’t stopping for pictures, though.

We headed off towards Senija which meant driving through Lliber. The road through Lliber was cordoned off, though, with a diversion through its narrow side streets. A run/walk was in progress but after only a short delay we emerged on the far side of the village and continued.

We drove into Senija only to find that the road in which we needed to park was also blocked. Senija was hosting a mountain bike event. I guess it just wasn’t our day.

Following swarms of road cyclists back through Jalon we decided to try retreating to the Marjal de Pego-Oliva in the hope that somewhere more rural might prove quieter. Mercifully it did. It would, after all, have been a shame to waste all our lovely sunshine. There was another car parked but it gave it a wide berth (we have a brand new rental car) and set off on foot.

Francine soon spotted a Common Bluetail (Ischural elegans) flitting about on the far side of one stream. I snagged it as best I could, i.e. not very well.

Continuing along the river we found more Bluetails and a couple of Lesser Emperors (Anax parthenope) who were definitely not pausing to pose for pictures.

J18_1861 Egyptian GrasshopperWe took a different track thinking that we might find the so-called Font Salada, a pool supposedly warm all year round, about which we’d been told. We’d seen a sign pointing to it on a previous visit so this time we followed the sign and walked further. We saw no more odonata on this stretch but we did see an Egyptian Grasshopper ovipositing in the track.

Eventually, we came to a bridge and the dividing of the ways. Was there another sign indicating the direction of the Font Salada? No, of course not. I do hate signing that doesn’t continue to the destination; it’s so frustrating. Uncertain of which of the three directions to take, we began our return wander. We’ll have to resort to Google Earth.

J18_1862 Western Clubtail femaleThings remained relatively dull until a freshly emerged dragonfly fluttered across the path and settled in the grass opposite. I managed a single shot, albeit with some grass across one wing, before it took to the air again. I tried to track it but lost it in the vegetation. It was an immature female Western Clubtail (Gomphus pulchellus) which, I am now told, is quite a rare find in the Alicante region.

That made the day.

Posted in 2018-04 Spain

Cabin Fever

The last stage of our return journey to the UK having successfully and mostly very enjoyably escaped the worst of the British winter, turned into something of a nightmare.

At our northbound overnight stop at the Parador in Calahorra, I received text messages from Brittany Ferries telling me that the departure of our return sailing would be delayed due to adverse weather conditions. The adverse weather conditions were being caused by Storm Felix which was smacking into Portugal and Spain, before making its way onto the west coast of France. Astute readers will realize that between these two geographic locations lies the Bay of Biscay, complete with its reputation for roughness. I had experience some degree of the Bay’s potentially disturbed nature when I had once made the return trip solo, Francine having had to curtail her Spanish visit and having had to fly back for a family emergency. [See 2015 Autumn] Being a poor sailor, I was concerned but chatting with fellow passengers distracted me and got me through it unscathed, along with medication, of course. There had never been any suggestion of a weather delay on that occasion, so clearly Storm Felix promised to up the stakes.

First, a little orientation. The route between Santander and Portsmouth, on Brittany Ferries cruise-type service using more modern boats takes about 24 hours. We were booked onto the so-called Economy sailings, partly because it’s cheaper but mainly because it omits a few services that we wouldn’t use anyway. The Economy sailings are on an older, slower boat (Baie de Seine) and the journey typically takes 27-28 hours.

Our timetabled departure time was 17:15 on Sunday 12th March. The delay notification said that we would be boarding at the regular time (about 16:00) and that the ships’ doors would be closed at 17:15 but that we would not be departing “until the early hours of Monday morning”. Bother, but at least we’d have a cabin and not need another hotel.

We dawdled our way along our 3-hour route from Calahorra to Santander, calling in at Logrono to find the so-called elephant trail, a short walking route taking in numerous tapas bars, each stop, of course, requiring another drink. Well, it’s rude not to. The rolling gait of those who have over-indulged gives the trail its name. (Not us ‘cos it was Sunday and we were driving.)

We arrived in Santander at the perfect time, according to my personal travel manual, at 15:00. [Sunday] After a slightly longer wait than anticipated, possibly because the boat we still discharging the inbound cohorts, we boarded and got used to the feel of our cabin, a 3-berth outside cabin on the lowest accommodation deck, deck 6. Knowing we weren’t going anywhere fast, we set about reading and doing puzzles. There were certainly whitecaps in the harbour and flags were flapping vigorously but being moored, the boat was rock solid. We had our picnic supper and eventually retired.

Clanking sounds, throbbing of marine engines and movements awoke Francine at about 04:00 [Monday]. We gulped our first pair of Stugeron tablets each and settled back down. We made our way calmly out of harbour and into the notorious Bay of Biscay. Amazingly, we successfully returned to the land of nod and got a bit more sleep.

Sleep didn’t last long. Once awake, the ship was rolling distressingly from side to side. Each roll to starboard was severe enough to cause me to slide a few inches down my bed towards the footboard. As the ship rolled back again to port, I slipped back again to where I should be, on the pillow – down, back, down, back, and so it went on. The curtains covering our porthole, folloo the inimitable Mr. Newton’s Law of Gravity, swung out above our heads to about 25°. Being unable to swing in the opposite direction because of the cabin walls, they returned to apparent vertical, although the cabin wall, our reference point, was, of course, itself now at –25°. The movement was not regular, though it was constant. There would be periods of more modest rolling followed by an abrupt change to a more serious rolling. At one point, the hefty wooden cabin stool tumbled end over end towards our cabin door, stopping on its side just short of the door. We left it there out of harms way. The stool having been moved out of the way, our travelling electric cool box was next to totter over, or would have been had I not caught it before it hit the floor. Sudoku puzzle books were scattered across the floor. In seas this mountainous, there was never any thought of my attempting to solve any. Since I get sick just reading in a car, I was anxious not to do anything to endanger my already fragile equilibrium. Neither did Francine want to try to read her Kindle.

Conditions were much worse than on my voyage of two years earlier, so bad that this time the captain eventually ordered the shop and restaurant closed “pour les raisonnes de sécurité“ [for safety reasons]. It transpired that one woman had been thrown off her dining chair not once but twice. Quite why she thought dining might have been a good idea in such circumstances remains a mystery. We were also told to stay in our cabins and not attempt to move around the ship. Sound advice; even taking the two or three steps from our beds to our bathroom in the cabin was fraught with danger. At the risk of painting too colourful a picture, once in the bathroom it was necessary to cling to the counter top for stability whilst seated on the loo. “Tell you what, let’s not bother with a shower.” Since no food was now available to purchase, the crew delivered sandwiches and mineral water to every cabin, bless them.

It’s staggering how unsettling it is when nothing in ones world is stable. All fixed orientation points disappear, hence seasickness I suppose. I found either closed eyes or fixing ones gaze on the ceiling to be about the best approaches. Our discomfort continued unabated throughout the daylight hours of Monday and into the early evening, the time it took us to travel the length of the Bay of Biscay. The usual route out of the Bay and into the English Channel is a passage between a collection of islands off Brest at the western extreme of Brittany. The ships slow down to navigate the narrow channel between the islands with care. In these conditions, the captain clearly thought that was too dangerous and sensibly took a longer route further to the west of the rocky islands, a route which, I think, added a couple of hours to our already long journey time. By the time we finally turned east into the mercifully calmer English Channel, we had been battered, shaken and stirred for a total of 17 hours by the unrelenting sea. The only high point, other than the caps of the waves, was that we both managed to hang on to our cookies, thanks to Stugeron at 8-hour intervals.

The Channel was essentially flat. I couldn’t help but wonder at the transformation of the sea state in such a short distance but I was then very relieved to be able to spend my second night in bed without constantly sliding up and down for the remaining 13 hours before we would finally dock in Portsmouth at 09:00 on Tuesday. It’s further along the English Channel than one might imagine.

Our original estimated arrival time had been 06:30. We had spent an unpleasant 41 hours on board, 39 of which I had spent in the confines of my cabin. I was glad to be back on terra firma. A somewhat unwelcome end to an otherwise wonderful Christmas and winter escape.

The crew was looking forward to a similarly rough return journey back down the Bay of Biscay.

Posted in 2017-2018 Winter