Having crossed to the Pacific side of the central backbone mountain range of Costa Rica, today we headed back up to the mountain range to visit another volcano: El Rincón de la Vieja. Mr. Leader had been disappointed at his two pretty much abortive attempts at the previous volcano courtesy of the weather and still wanted his montane species.
We set off at 06:45 and called into a coffee shop for a caffeine fix and breakfast, if something resembling a thinly meat-filled turnover can be called breakfast. Herr German is very keen on baked goods – at any time of day. Then we made the 25km journey to the volcano and its park.
There is a circular trail of about 3½km which we set off on soon after 07:30. The first thing of interest that we spotted was a Coati nosing around in the grass as we approached our intended trail. Coatis are Racoon family, I believe, and usually have more obviously ringed tails than this character.
Being so early (as usual) things began slowly but a damselfly did oblige us with some pictures. This is a Cerulean Dancer (Argia anceps). At least, I think it is. Argias are a bit of a bugger to identify. The Argia genus seems to take the place of our Coenagrion genus in Europe – they’re largely blue and black and there’s a lot of them.
The route provided some side shoots overlooking fumaroles and bubbling pits of volcanic mud. This sucker was active. I was surprised to see a dragonfly or two flying about over such a toxic environment.
With Mr. Leader meticulously studying almost everything we passed, the going was slow. About 2/3rds of the way round, interest did pick when we found one of his favoured gomphid dragonflies. I can hardly bring myself to write this but this character is allegedly (I relied on Mr. Leader to identify it) a Lowland Knobtail (Epigomphus tumefactus). I think I’d change my name by deed poll given that handle.
A little further along, my two companions began minutely examining a mountain stream. I was ill equipped wearing walking boots (but my feet were comfortable and I could get my boots off at the end of the day). I walked on to the top of the next incline and sat down to wait. Whilst waiting, I was entertained by industrious Leafcutter Ants carrying what looked like impossibly large loads back to their nest. Ants really are amazing creatures.
Almost an hour later, the time had ticked well past midday and I was still waiting. We’d been on this 3½km trail for 5 hours and I could no longer hear my buddies voices. I knew they couldn’t leave without passing me but, having had enough, I began my own trek back towards the exit.
At the exit I found a tap to fill my depleted water bottle and a shady wall against which to lean. At almost 13:30 I spotted two familiar figures approaching.
I was mightily relieved that they decided not to do the second trail, which had been the original plan, before they’d spent six hours on the first.
Instead, we headed back down the mountain into Liberia in search of lunch – another roadside fried chicken and chips delight,though less delightful than the first.
I will not be sorry to get away from bakeries and fast food chicken, and back to some real, quality food.
Recent Comments