Early Start, Early Boat

We may be folk of leisure these days but we are normally awake early and normally up and about reasonably early. This morning we awoke even earlier than usual and so, rather than sit at home twiddling our thumbs waiting to leave for the ferry, we set about our last minute packing and hit the road to Dover at 6:30 AM. The journey was a breeze and hit the ferry port at about 9:15 AM after topping up with fuel. My heart skipped a beat as we saw a man controlling two enormously long lines of lorries/trucks waiting to check in; there must have been 30+ in each line. We’ve been stuck behind articulated lorries before but now, fortunately a car lane had been kept clear and we sailed through to be put on the 10:15 AM sailing, almost 2 hours ahead of our booked crossing. Excellent! 🙂

On our last trip, arriving in Normandy at 5:30 PM, we had luckily snagged the very last pitch at our favourite Neufchâtel-en-Bray campsite. Too close for comfort. Originally expecting a similar arrival time, I’d used my best French to send an email asking for reservation this time. With our earlier crossing, we arrived at 3:30 PM so it turned out to be unnecessary but it was comforting to note that it had worked; we were expected, albeit two hours later.

Common_Blue_Damselflies_1 Common_Blue_Damselflies_2 Neufchâtel-en-Bray has a plan d’eau [lake] which we’ve never investigated but, with our early arrival, we now had time to do so before hitting the supermarché for some supplies.  There were actually two lakes, the smaller of which looked like a splendid wildlife habitat with reeds, shallow marshy edges and other water plants. The place was seething with Blue-tailed Damselflies (Ischnura elegans) together with rather fewer Common Blue Damselflies (Enallagma cyathigerum). Neither of these are prize wining shots but the pair of Common Blues was interesting because these show the male transferring a package of sperm to his secondary sex organ whilst grasping the female prior to mating.

Highland_Calf_1 It wasn’t all Odos, though, there were some highland cattle in a paddock beside the lakes. I’ve never seen one of their calves before but this furry little guy or gal must win the afternoon’s prize for cute. 😉

Posted in 2012 Spring

Autumn, 2011: Postscript

Well, here we are getting used to life again back at home. We’re over our ferry lag and the car has had a new windscreen fitted courtesy of the insurance and a £75.00 excess. Ferry lag? Yes, ferry lag. There’s only a one hour time difference between ourselves and France (France being ahead, for anyone who is unsure) but, whenever we return, we always wake up disgustingly early for a few days.

This was a great trip – one of the classics. This was one of those trips I dream of. We had pretty close to five weeks of unbroken sunshine (apart from the setting at night, of course) and were lucky enough to make many good choices as to where to stop. And it is, believe me, largely a matter of luck. The dragonfly spotting in La Brenne and Provence was good but the crowning glory had to be six gloriously sunny days in the Pyrenees at the end. Given the correct weather, such mountains are magnificent and this time they were utterly fantastic.

The return trip was a bit naff but, hey, I was just driving.

Here’s one final thing that I feel the need to “share”. Motor vans are very popular these days. I really have no idea of the reason; in my view they are more expensive and generally less flexible than a car and caravan. about 50% of their space is taken up with the de rigeur fixed bed these days. About another 25% is the driving cab leaving very little actual living space in your considerable investment. I actually find them slightly irritating as they drive around towing a car behind them on a yoke and, after sensible folks who’ve been installed since 4:00 PM are thinking they’ve found a nice quiet campsite for the evening, half a dozen of these damn things swarm in at 7:00 PM and ruin it. Still, popular they are and that’s just me and my little problem.

P1010799_Conspicuous_camping Here, however, is an example of what I find completely offensive. I don’t think this is actually American but it’s certainly based upon the Winnebago concept. It’s huge. It dwarfs everything sensible on the campsite. Just look at it beside this Bailey caravan (not unlike ours) and Jag tow car. There can’t be many sites with pitches big enough to accommodate a thing like this. I looked on a website to see what I could find out. I’ve blanked out the registrations but this is an ‘06 plate so the models have changed. The price ticket on this ugly mo’fo’ is something between £90K and £150K. Talk about conspicuous camping.

Obscenities like this don’t fit European campsites. Indeed, they don’t fit Europe. It’s all very well for those living in it but we’ve got to look at it.

OK, end of Hitlerian rant. We had a wonderful time and now have to face the winter. Let’s hope it’s not too long or severe.

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Harnessing the Wind

Today was the Sunday to travel home. Normally, I’d have been upset about going home but the weather was so awful, clouds on the deck and steady rain, that it softened the blow. What it didn’t soften was the packing up – I hate packing up in the rain. 🙁

For the last couple of days travelling up through France from the Pyrenees we’d occasionally experienced another kind of blow – the wind. It’s a powerful force. As we were heading up towards Chartres we ran into a stiff headwind that was slamming into the front of poor ol’ Guillaume and felt like it might halt our progress. Aided by the bow wave from a passing lorry/truck in the opposite carriageway, it did rearrange my towing mirror. I had to pull in and realign it.

IMG_1733_Wind_power The French are pretty good at harnessing the power of the wind. Although the majority of their electricity is generated by nuclear power, they do seem keen on alternative technologies and you don’t travel far before running across a parc éolien [wind farm]. Perhaps unfashionably, I rather like them, though I can’t see them as a realistic alternative. Here’s an example that we ran across on this trip in Provence where there is a very famous source of pretty reliable wind power, the mistral.

Following lunch yesterday in Dieppe, we meandered along the so-called Côte d’Alabatre [Alabaster Coast]. The term alabaster is a bit optimistic since the cliffs looked decided dirty yellow so it must be a French P.R. job attempting to rival the White Cliffs of Dover. There was a stiff breeze blowing off la manche [the English Channel] which many locals were out demonstrating various ways to make leisure use of.

P1010789_Wind_power First up, a double-header shot. Out on the water itself were several kite-surfers. Now, this makes sense to me, though it looks much too difficult for one as uncoordinated as I who dislikes getting cold and wet. I’ve watched regular surfing in Cornwall and that seems to consist of a lot of paddling ones surfboard out from the beach – very tiring – followed by sitting on ones surfboard for ages – very boring – waiting for a decent wave (usually the seventh?)  for a very short ride back to the beach. Repeat. The kite-surfers are on the go all the time.

In the foreground of the same picture is something I hadn’t noticed before – what I can best describe as a sail-powered skateboard. This, at least, seems to avoid the “getting wet” bit though perhaps not the “getting cold”.

P1010793_Wind_power Too much effort standing up? Want a seat? Try this variation. I’ve no idea what this contraption might be called or how one concentrates on steering the cart device as well as controlling the kite, but it seems to take kite-surfing out of the water and puts in on the beach with the added comfort of a seat.

P1010795_Wind_power Finally, if you really want something comfortable, maybe land-yachting would be your thing? Here’s an example fitted with what appears to be a Recaro rally seat for a real treat. Actually, if this driver got much lower down, a single bed might be more appropriate.

How very inventive!

We made it back to Calais through the rain and cross-wind, early enough to get on a earlier ferry (11:35). I’m sure our windscreen was intact as we drove onto the boat but it had a 12cms/5in crack in it as I drove off. Weird. Maybe it got hit by a passing kite-surfer? 😀

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Lunch in Dieppe

Having arrived in Neufchâtel-en-Bray a day earlier than we thought, we decided to treat ourselves to a seafood lunch in Dieppe which lies a mere 20 miles to the north. Dieppe is one of the channel ferry ports, though not one we’ve ever used, and one of the more attractive ones, at that. Other than ferry traffic, the port unloads a whole lot of bananas and shellfish (it says here). OK, we’ve driven nearby it frequently enough, now let’s give it a try.

P1010756_Dieppe_harbour I am no historian but I am quite interested in the Second World War. Dieppe is best remembered, by me anyway, because of the completely disastrous raid by allied forces in 1942. With support from the Royal Navy and Royal Air Force, 6000+ infantry, predominantly Canadian, made it ashore. After some five hours, having achieve none of the objectives, those which were not killed, wounded or captured, less than 50% of the poor saps, were forced to withdraw. PR would have it that this action served as practice for D-Day. It certainly sounds as though we needed it! The harbour must have looked utterly depressing in 1942. Happily, today it looks much more appealing, especially in Fuji 617 format.

On Saturday, Dieppe has its reportedly wonderful street market so we checked that out before lunch. We’d have to agree, the market was excellent. Several years ago, we discovered a wonderful market in Dives-sur-mer, also in Normandy. I’m beginning to spot a pattern. I’ve spared you the market pictures so far on this trip but I can resist no longer. Below are a few stalls – mostly those that interest us more, rotisseried chickens, cheese and fresh fish – to give you a colourful flavour of the French love for food. (The occasional movement blur is caused by our not knowing how to drive our toy compact camera properly.)

P1010774_Dieppe_Market P1010764_Dieppe_Market P1010766_Dieppe_Market P1010769_Dieppe_Market

P1010771_Canned_fish_shop French markets are usually colourful affairs but we stumbled into a shop on one of the market streets that was out to give this one some competition. In my experience, this bejewelled shop is unique. All the shop’s internal walls were lined from floor to ceiling with brightly coloured cans. The cans contained nothing but fish, various species preserved in various flavourings and sauces. There were some very attractively presented gift boxes and hampers of canned fish, too. Totally unexpected and quite amazing; I’ve never seen the like before.

All that gives one an appetite and we finally went in search of a restaurant with a good seafood menu. I always have a hankering for a plateau de fruit de mer [seafood platter] and Francine was hungry for scallops. We found a table at one of the more popular eateries and had clearly lucked out; 15 minutes later they were turning people away. Apart from our main choices, one of its attractions was that it had a €22.90 menu offering a starter that intrigued us both, foie de lotte [monkfish liver], noted as the house speciality. It was excellent and the highlight of the meal for us both. A bottle of Muscadet sur lie was, of course, needed to wash the feast down.

We don’t often eat in restaurants but when we do, we like it to be because we’re eating something we either can’t obtain or can’t prepare at home. Monkfish liver and spanking fresh seafood fulfilled both requirements. For once, paying the bill was a pleasure. 🙂

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The Journey North

At Bagnère-de-Bigorre in the Pyrenees, we were just about as far south in France as it’s possible to be without being in Spain. 😀 Having enjoyed an amazing spell of clear blue skies in the mountains, we had to face the eternal question of when to start our return journey – two long days or three shorter days? Since we were leaving unfamiliar territory and knew we’d be driving into poor weather, we opted for three shorter days and struck out for Limoges (or thereabouts) at 08:30, or à bonne heure as the French would have it, on Thursday.

Our journey to Limoges was smooth and we arrived mid afternoon. As expected the weather was uninspiring so, with neither the time nor inclination to do anything constructive after setting up, we invoked the female prerogative, – changed our minds and kept going. May as well use the time constructively putting kilometres behind us. At 16:00 we pulled into a campsite near Châteauroux. I really don’t like setting up in the rain. 😉

Another 5½hrs  towing in revoltingly strong winds got us to Neufchâtel-en-Bray in Normandy today so we did it in a relatively easy two days after all. It’s raining off and on. I really don’t like setting up in the rain. 😉

No wonder they have very lush green grass for all the famous Normandy cows that make Neufchâtel cheese in these parts.

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Another Victory for Automation

Remember those halcyon days in shops when the shop keeper would look at your item, know the price of it and ring that price straight into the till/cash register? That system was very quick and efficient for the paying customer. What happened? Along came computer geniuses armed with bar codes and automated stock tracking and re-ordering systems. (Mea culpa, except for the genius bit.) Now what happens? Either :

  1. Spotty oik at the checkout passes your pre-packaged item over a bar code scanner but the bar code label is creased or badly printed.
  2. The scanner fails to beep its recognition of your item.
  3. Spotty oik tries again … no beep … and again … still no beep.
  4. There follows a laborious process of manually keying in the 12 or so digit numerical equivalent of the item’s unreadable bar code. 
  5. Finally the bloody computer system recognizes your item and adds the appropriate amount to your bill.

Alternatively,

  1. You’ve inadvertently picked up one of the items on the shelf that hasn’t actually been bar coded and spotty oik now has to call for someone in authority to go and retrieve another identical item with the bar code.
  2. Wait two minutes. The queue [line, in Amerispeak] is getting antsy behind you.
  3. Go to #1 above.

Admittedly this doesn’t happen with every item but it is certainly not an infrequent occurrence, is it? Is this quick and efficient for the customer? No, of course not. This whole system is designed to help the shop/store in streamlining its stock control and re-ordering. It is not designed to help the paying customer.

France is now inventing something equivalent in regard to its autoroute tolls. When you enter an autoroute section which is péage [carries a toll], you take a ticket. When you leave the autoroute, you are charged according to how far you have travelled. Simples! Well, it was. Up until recently there was a warm body, sometimes smiling and cheery, at the exit point. You handed them your ticket and a price appeared. Some people, notably the French, seem to insist on juggling with cash but the warm body made it all pretty quick and easy. Sensible people handed over a credit card along with the ticket and you were on your way in no time flat.

[Aside: You never had to sign a credit card chit or enter a PIN at an autoroute toll booth. How’d that work?]

Enter: the ugly face of automation once again. Many of the autoroute toll booths are having automated machinery installed. The warm body, sometimes smiling and cheery, at the autoroute exit point is being replaced by an impersonal machine/computer system. Here’s how it works:

  1. Several cars in front of you, a driver inserts the ticket into the machine the wrong way round. The machine fails to read the magnetically encoded data and spits the ticket back out.
  2. The driver re-inserts the ticket the right way round.
  3. A price appears.
  4. Being French, the driver shuns the use of credit cards and begins fumbling for cash. (The price is such that we are generally talking paper money here, BTW.)
  5. The machine miraculously accepts the driver’s creased and soiled Euros and discharges the correct change (coins) into a tray.
  6. The driver starts scooping out his/her change and insists on storing it in his/her purse before continuing.
  7. The driver then fumbles a scooping motion and drops his/her remaining coins on the ground in between the car and the fancy toll machine.
  8. The bottom of the sun’s disc gracefully touches the horizon.

Or:

  1. You’ve stored your autoroute ticket next to your bankers card in your wallet/purse and the magnetic strip is now knackered. When you insert the ticket, even if your bright enough to get it the correct way round, it can’t be read.
  2. The ticket is spat back out and you have to press the “warm body for assistance” button. (Wait one minute.)
  3. Now you are instructed to read some of the digits from your ticket.
  4. A price appears.
  5. Go to #3 above.

Meanwhile, another six vehicles have formed a queue [line, in Amerispeak] behind you.

This marvellous new system is, once again, several times slower than the original, even when things go smoothly. Trust me, we’ve tried both many times. On busy autoroute toll booths, the queues [lines, in Amerispeak – get it?] are noticeably longer.

Is this new system better for the paying customer? No, of course it isn’t. This system does absolutely nothing for the paying (and paying dearly) customer. This system is, of course, designed entirely for the autoroute companies who can now make redundant a good percentage of their employees.

Unemployment in France is already high enough.

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Lac d’Ourrec

We’ve scored two strikes on walking up various high bits of the Pyrenees so far. A trip or two ago, we decided to strike out for Andorra starting at one of our favourite mountain locations, the barrage de Soulcem. We struck out – failed; we started too late in the day, underestimated the severity of the route, didn’t have enough water and should have left our heavy cameras and lenses at base camp. Just two days ago on this trip, we fell short of success again. We’d set off from an altitude of 1000m/3000ft to “walk” up to le Lac Bleu at 1900m/5800ft. This is a bit like starting from the top of Snowdon and walking up Snowdon again. We had enough water and time but Franco’s left thigh decided to go on strike [Ed: how very French!] about 300m/1000ft from the summit. I think Franco was suffering from his winter of inactivity. Blast! Discretion being the better part of valour, especially in serious mountains, we returned slowly to base camp.

P1010734_Lac_d'Ourrec_start Today, Franco’s left thigh hopefully having recovered from its earlier difficulty, we decided to try for the slightly lower target of Lac d’Ourrec, the ascent of which begins at the same base camp as le Lac Bleu but was supposedly at a mere 1700m/5300ft. The French time estimate for the route was 2 hours, whereas their Lac Bleu estimate had been 2½hrs. We started earlier to be on the safe side.

P1010741_Lac_d'Ourrec The day was cooler and all went well. The walk was very irregular in that some sections were quite steep whereas others were a gentle ramble along a relatively level path. We crossed the mountain stream tumbling down the valley twice over strategically placed footbridges. Eventually we came upon a plateau with grazing cows and … about six four-wheel drive vehicles parked beside mountain huts. It’s irrational, I know, but there is something slightly demoralizing about having walked for an hour uphill only to come across motorized vehicles. That was the end of civilization, though, we were now on a path across a steeply wooded slope that hardly had room for two feet, let alone a Toyota Landcruiser.

P1010746_Francine_looks_for_the_lake P1010750_Lac_d'Ourrec We broke the tree-line and worked our way towards a ridge with noting but blue sky visible beyond. Expectantly, I crested the ridge to see … more grass and another ridge. There’s always another ridge. We continued. We crested the next ridge to be faced by no lake but a small decent to something of a plateau. We continued, thinking we could deduce where the lake might be – across the further ridge before us. Wrong! The path rounded a bluff and there, finally, was the Lac d’Ourrec. We’d made it. I’d been thinking we should stop this mountain walking nonsense in favour of something with a higher success ration.

Hmm, that may still be the case!

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Fêtes des Mariolles

All of our exploring here at Bagnères-de-Bigorre has begun by driving up the Vallée de Campan. Campan is a large village/small town a few kilometres east of us which we had to pass through to get to the climbs up the Col du Tourmalet and the Col d’Aspin. Negotiating the relatively narrow streets through typical French villages is not made any safer by sights that cause the driver, moi, to do a double-take.

P1010702_Mounaques Campan was littered with such double-take-inducing sights. Driving past a street cafe where one of the two outside tables appears to be occupied by a couple of life-sized rag dolls can be a little surprising if you aren’t expecting it – and who would? Campan was actually littered with a whole collection of life-sized rag dolls in a series of intriguing poses, including two sapeurs-pompieres [firemen] apparently with an audience on a balcony above. There was a Romeo and Juliet balcony scene with Romeo clinging to the top of a street light. Even the church courtyard featured a display of a rag doll wedding party. Very inventive!

P1010690_Mounaques P1010700_Mounaques P1010693_Mounaques P1010708_Mounaques

10th July had been something called the Fêtes des Mariolles. Mariolles doesn’t feature in any of our dictionaries so we remain in the dark. However, the rag dolls display at Campan was an exhibition of mounaques from the Fêtes des Mariolles. Mounaque doesn’t feature in our dictionaries either but it sounds similar to mannequin, to me. So. for the moment, I’m going to postulate that the Fêtes des Mariolles is something to do with puppets etc. and that mounaques are mannequin-like things. Very curious but bless them for doing something so inventive and amusing.

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Col d’Aspin

Having driven up the giant Col du Tourmalet yesterday, we thought we’d try another of the Tour de France cols, the Col  d’Aspin. The most important quality an organizer of Le Tour can possess is that he or she be a complete and utter sadist. It is completely insufficient to make cyclists ride 200kms/125mls finishing at an altitude of 2115mtrs/6900ft after a 17kms climb at an average gradient of 8%/1 in 12, you have to give them a couple of leg-loosening climbs before they get to “the big finish”. One such intermediate test is the Col d’Aspin: a climb of a mere 12kms/8mls to an altitude of only 1489mtrs/4500ft. It’s pretty close to our campsite so off we set.

P1010684_Cows_in_road Whereas the climb up to the Col du Tourmalet is relatively drab, marred by the ugly scar on the landscape of the La Mongie ski resort, the road up to the Col d’Aspin was completely delightful. There is another ski resort at Payrolle, Nordic skiing this time, but the buildings are in keeping with the mountain atmosphere rather than featureless slabs of concrete. Being a Sunday, we had to negotiate the swarms of bicycles making the ascent through wooded hairpin bends; there was even a tiny tot, about 6 years old, gamely wobbling up accompanied by his father riding shotgun behind him. If the cyclists weren’t enough of a hazard, we rounded one hairpin bend to be faced by a small herd of cows wandering down the road. Cows have little idea of which side of the road they should be on and tend to use all of it as and when they wish. [Ed: Same as driving in Kenya, then.]

IMG_2024_Col_d'Aspin IMG_2033_Col_cows Cleverly avoiding a bullfight, we soon arrived at the summit where the normal weekend crowds were enjoying the expected magnificent Pyrenean vistas – and more cows. The cows, as may be seen from my picture, are normally placid if treated with a suitable amount of respect. One complete idiot of a father, his young son sitting astride his neck, very nearly got the bullfight that we had so carefully avoided because he approached one cow too closely. The cow, armed with two sharp horns, went for him horns down and complete with small tossing motions of her head. There were calves around and, with a kid sat on his shoulders, he probably looked like a two-headed monster to the poor beast. Monsieur Idiot rapidly backpedalled, mercifully avoiding stumbling on the rough ground with his child six feet above it. The child, not unnaturally, was scared witless and began screaming. Where do some people leave their brains and why are they allowed to reproduce? (Incidentally, the tall peak to the left in the cow photo is the Pic du Midi de Bigorre.)

P1010687_Payolle Rather than doing a circuit this time, we did a there-and-back. Since the ski resort of Payolle had looked pleasant on our way up, we called in on our way down in search of a spot for a pique-nique. Lo, a lake was signposted, the Lac de Payolle and a very pleasant spot it turned out to be, too. Being Sunday and the fête des grand-pères to boot, dozens of French families together with about 30 motor vans  had had the same idea. Those who weren’t indulging in a pique-nique were mostly intent on fishing. Nonetheless, the area was large enough not to feel crowded.

IMG_2047_Common_Hawker_femaleOther than our pique-nique, we were the odd ones out. There was a flush feeding the lake where a few dragonflies were buzzing about which just had to be stalked. Eventually a hawker female became relatively cooperative and began ovipositing where the camera could just about see her – my 9th new species for this trip, a Common Hawker (Aeshna juncea).

What a good way to end a most enjoyable and cloudless day in the mountains. 🙂

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Col du Tourmalet

When we were camped in Fanjeaux last week, we visited one of this year’s Tour de France mountain top finishes, the Plateau de Beille, and very pretty it was, too. Now we’ve moved west we are in the high Pyrenees and several other notable mountain stages of the world’s greatest cycle race are within easy reach. One such is the (in)famous Col du Tourmalet topping out at 2115mtrs/6900ft. Prompted by the fact that we could reach it without dicing with the centre of Bagnère-de-Bigorre and noting that we could drive a circuit, thus avoiding a “there and back” situation, we set off.

IMG_1993_Cyclist_statue Saturday morning isn’t the best time to drive up such a mountain pass since you seem to be sharing the road with every cycling maniac for miles around. The climb up the road to the col is 17kms/10mls at an average gradient of around about 12% (but don’t quote me). It’s worth reiterating that an average gradient means little; the gradient on hairpin bends ramps up dramatically. The French don’t think they’re cycling unless they’re going up hill and here, they’re cycling, with a vengeance – seemingly all of them. For the Tour de France the road is closed; there’s no opposing traffic to avoid on the hairpin bends as you overtake a cyclist struggling uphill and the only vehicles able to knock cyclists off and into barbed wire fences are the press and support vehicles. [Ed: well, someone had to say it.] Negotiating almost constant strings of gasping, occasionally wobbling cyclists with frequent blind bends was nerve-racking but we made it to the top without getting thrown in jail. Here, there is a statue commemorating the first ascent in Le Tourin, I think, 1910.

IMG_1994_Col-du-Tourmalet Being in the high Pyrenees, the Col du Tourmalet is part of a skiing area. The French have a utilitarian approach to skiing resorts which are generally far from attractive. (Take a lesson from the Austrians, France – beauty and function combined.) The ski town of La Mongie near the top of the col, is no exception. In fact, La Mongie is depressingly ugly with slab upon slab of featureless, tall accommodation blocks scarring the otherwise picturesque landscape. Fortunately, ignoring the buildings, both the views of the countryside on the way up and the ultimate vistas of the majestic Pyrenean peaks themselves once reaching the top make the journey very worthwhile.

IMG_2001_Lourdes_road_sign IMG_2006_Pyrenean_llamas We eventually continued down the other side, intending to do a complete circuit returning via the Cirque de Gavarnie, a massive horseshoe rock formation at the head of a glacial valley, and Lourdes, where St. Bernadette drank too much booze and had a “vision” (I’d call it an hallucination) thereby creating one of the biggest religious tourist traps on the planet. What I didn’t expect to bump into, fortunately not literally, on the way down of the col, was a small herd of Pyrenean llamas.

We negotiated further cyclists on the decent, made it to the Cirque de Gavarnie where the light was pants (he cirque faces north so is in shade whilst cameras face south directly into the sun), bypassed Lourdes this time in favour of returning for a desperately wanted drink to see if we could rustle-up our own mystic hallucinations.

No cyclists were harmed in the making of this journey. Phew! 😀

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