An Early Bath

Having arrived in sunshine last Friday lunchtime and having spent the following four days in sunny, if slightly windy conditions, today dawned with a grey overcast. The noticeable easterly wind was still with us and and has seemed to be something of a feature here. I consulted the weather forecast for the following few days: grey with the risk of some showers. I’d had a very pleasant, probably better than could reasonably be expected at the beginning of October, 5-night stay. I’d pretty much done the things on my to-do list.

For the remainder of the week, the grey skies weren’t going to suit any landscape photography. More cycling around the lanes would have been enjoyable but less so in the prevailing stiff breeze. I checked the forecast at home: worse, if anything, but by leaving today, I should be able to get Guillaume parked in his home field without getting soaked.

Decision made. Guillaume and I packed up and returned home for a slightly early bath, carefully avoiding the current travel nightmare that is the A11 around Thetford.

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Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Changed Expectations

The Norfolk Broads is a network of waterways based upon three main rivers: the Yare flowing mainly east-west between Norwich and Great Yarmouth, the Bure to the north and the Waveney to the south. I’m somewhat familiar with the first two but have never investigated the Waveney. The forecast today was average, dry with cloud and sunny intervals, so I thought I’d try somewhere on the Waveney.

On my newly acquired OS map, I spotted a parking area in something called Waveney Forest, just outside the village of Fritton on a bend in the river Waveney. I found it, parked and went off on foot. Dull! That’s “Dull” with a capital “D”. I think it had capital “U”, “L” and “L” as well. This was a managed conifer plantation with a muddy bog for access to teh river upon which there seemed to be nothing happening. The most interesting thing I spotted was a Tesco Extra on the way there but it was too early in the day to go shopping for perishables. Time for plan-B.

On our June trip here, we’d missed out on one of the main dragonfly attraction spots, the RSPB’s Strumpshaw Fen reserve. [Being a sick puppy, I can’t help but turn that title into The Strumpshaw Redemption. Great movie!] The weather turned out to be considerably better than forecast, clear and bright, though still a little windy; Strumpshaw would do. I left DULL with a capital D-U-L-L as swiftly as I legally could.

J01_4313 Strumpshaw HeronOriginally, I had been looking forward to some walking up here but the OS map for this neck of the woods shows few footpaths, certainly few that can be linked together into a circular walk. Strumpshaw Fen, however, provided just what was missing. I paused at the hide near the reception to snap a Grey Heron indulging in some fishing, then went off on the 5 kms or so circuit. To be honest, I saw little else of interest, other than the usual dragonflies of the late season, but it was a very pleasant saunter in some peaceful countryside.

J01_4320 Railway linesThe last part of the circuit takes the walker across a used railway line with, of course, dire warnings about, “stop, look, listen” before you attemp to cross lest you get ploughed down by the 3:15 to Norwich. I couldn’t help risking life and limb by standing in the tracks and snapping a shot along the lines, just because it was a rare opportunity in our over-protected society.

J01_4325 Wroxham river frontI needed food supplies and wasn’t far from Tesco at Sprowston so that was my next port of call. A day off cooking appealed but all I could reasonably find were some coked king prawn, just the ticket with some aioli. I fancied something more exciting with it, though. Ah, I’d be returning through Wroxham where the famous Roys sells dressed crab. Plan-C, dressed crab with king prawns and aioli, swung into action. After securing my dressed crab, with the waterfront bathed in late afternoon sunlight, I thought I’d better snap it for posterity.

J01_4326 Butchers signI was also forced to snap this sign outside a local butchers shop. I realize that butchers usually have a highly developed sense of humour/cheek but I guess this could be serious. If it is serious, it begs the question, “how do they know, though?”

Dinner beckons: dressed crab and prawns with aioli, all washed down with a cold bottle of Viognier – just the ticket!

Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Cold Vegetables

Lazy for me, that is. It was somewhat less lazy for my friend of many years, recently retired [congratulations], who rode his motorcycle up from Suffolk to visit me during my stay in Norfolk. I spent a casual morning on camp duties preparing Guillaume for a visitor and carefully avoiding breakfast since we planned to have lunch together.

J01_4307 from Ludham BridgeWe were reunited at 11:00 AM and, after the obligatory catch-up natter, sauntered down to Ludham Bridge to enjoy the local scenery. [This is an evening shot rather than midday, to get better light quality, but it gives you the idea.]

Then the worms were biting so we drove the five miles or so into Horning in search of a favourable hostelry. Bingo! Not only was there one with tables beside the river but it also sold both Adnams Bitter (for the motorcyclist) and Adnams Broadside, which is one of my personal great favourites. The curly kale accompanying my fish pie was decidedly cool but, hey, I was eating out in the sun on the last day of September and it was one of my five-a-day. 😀

Our afternoon entertainment was a return (for me) to Thurne to see the classic Norfolk scenery of boats and windmills/pumps. We also were entertained by a pair of tourists attempting to dock one of the many rental bath tubs pleasure boats.

Mr Tourist was at the helm (is that the correct term?) while Mrs Tourist sat on the bow armed with the bow line. Mrs Tourist was, shall we say, a little lumpy and seemed incapable of jumping onto shore in order to tie off the bow line. Ever the gentleman, I offered to take the bow line for her, for which she seemed very grateful, as she proceeded literally to crawl off the bow of the boat and onto shore on her hands and knees. She struggled to her feet and eventually wrapped the line around a mooring post but, I think, didn’t allow enough slack. Assisted by the wind which was blowing off-shore, with Mrs Tourist pulling the rounded bow into shore, the stern made its way back out into the middle of the river despite Mr Tourist fighting gamely to correct the situation employing copious quantities of  throttle and rudder.

J01_4301 Wind pump at ThurneGreat fun! I’m not sure how Mr & Mrs Tourist will survive the week. I stopped watching for while. Eventually they did get docked ‘cos I did spot Mr Tourist clambering ashore with the stern line. And [artistic license – beginning a sentence with a conjunction] I certainly couldn’t embarrass Mr & Mrs Tourist further by taking a photograph. Instead, here’s another take of one of the two wind thingies at Thurne.

The temperature must have dropped; the fridge had frozen my spring onions and mushrooms intended for my evening meal of Coq au Caravan. Drat! I made do.

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Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Who Needs Nature Reserves?

Another beautiful day dawned and, after Guillaume and I arose in an unhurried fashion, I pedalled off into Ludham to the local shop to secure a few more cans of beer and some nibbles during their Sunday morning opening hours. Three of Guillaume’s immediate neighbours packed up and left but unfortunately not the two small, irritatingly yappy dogs two pitches to his right. Pity. One of the wardens wandered around collecting pitch marker pegs. 🙁

J01_4290 male Migrant HawkerJ01_4296 female Migrant HawkerBy the time I’d made myself a sandwich for lunch on my day’s travels, it was darn nearly midday so I thought I might as well just eat it in situ and keep Guillaume company in the sun. I spotted one of the resident Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta) flitting about near the hedge beside Guillaume. It hung-up. I grabbed camera, monopod and caravan step for added elevation and snapped away, temporarily ignoring my half eaten sandwich. This was a male. Then, just two feet to its right, I spotted a female Migrant Hawker also hung-up. I shifted the caravan step two feet right and snapped away again. Back in June, Guillaume had a Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isosceles) hung-up in the bushes of his pitch, now he had a pair of Migrant Hawkers. Lucky Guillaume!

In June, Francine and I had made an unsuccessful attempt at finding Odos in the Winterton Dunes Nature Reserve. Acting on sketchy information, we had made our assault through the sands from the north, eventually retiring fed-up. Today, armed with more accurate information from a fellow fan, I thought I try again by attacking through the sands from the south. I trudged two miles north and found what I thought must have been the pool of main interest. I say “have been” because there wasn’t a great deal of water left. Neither could I discern any signs of  Odonata life. I’d scared up Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum) en route but that was it. Wrong time of the season, I guess. I retired fed-up and trudged two miles back south scaring up the self same Common Darters again. Not too bad a walk, I suppose, the sand was a little firmer from the south.

The time was now 2:30 PM so I didn’t want to go too far afield. However, the Upton Fen and Marshes Norfolk Wildlife Trust nature reserve was just 20 minutes away so I gave that  try. As luck would have it, clouds decided to roll in at about 3:00 PM suppressing much in the way of activity. All I did was scare up a few of the usual seasonal suspects with no photo opportunities.

J01_4297 Norfolk SceneHeading back intent on one of my newly acquired beers with Guillaume, I acted on a whim and diverted to Thurne. Good decision; here I found a small marina and not one but two iconic Norfolk windmills – actually, I think they are wind pumps for managing water levels in the marshes, but windmill always seem to sound more natural. – one of which was in the company of an attractive sailing boat. [I’ve given this a rudimentary monochrome treatment to try and get over the rather dull sky.]

So, with two more blanks at nature reserves today, I’ve done rather better on the campsite beside Guillaume. Fear not, I remain a great fan of nature reserves. Here in Norfolk, the combined forces of the RSPB and the Norfolk Wildlife Trust are doing a wonderful job preserving wildlife habitat which, of course, is the very reason there are Odos beside Guillaume in his campsite. 😉

Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Back to Aldferfen

My favourite spot from our first trip to Norfolk, back in June this year, was undoubtedly Alderfen. I had hoped that I would arrive and be installed in time to revisit it yesterday afternoon but that was not to be. However, as forecast, today dawned with clear, sunny weather, so I got a second chance.

First, though, I needed to visit a couple of local Ludham shops, including the jovial butcher (why are butchers normally jovial?), to supplement my larder to see me through the weekend. I went green and jumped on my bike, since I could actually get it out out of the bike carrier this time. 😀

I thought I’d try something a bit different for dinner on Saturday. Half a pound of pig’s liver together with half a pound of tuppeny rice smoked streaky bacon cost me less than £3. Deal! Some curly Kale from the mini supermarket and some potatoes from my store cupboard, and today’s dinner was set. The trick was padding three bottles of vino with my softer purchases so they didn’t rattle and give the game away as I cycled back to Guillaume.

J01_4272 male and female Common DartersI’d had a late breakfast (10:30 AM) of sausages, eggs and mushrooms so I didn’t need any lunch. I shot straight out to Alderfen. As I arrived, a couple of walkers left but, other than that, I was the only person there. Brilliant! There are precious few Odos remaining at this time of year in the UK but, as expected, the place was swarming with Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum), largely on the ground, and Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta), largely in the air. I did see one hawker settle but not close enough for a shot. I was a little surprised not to find any trace of any Emerald Damselflies but it was a very agreeable diversion nonetheless.

2013-09-28 16.12.20 Hickling staitheI was back by 3:00 PM so I decided on a second bike ride, this time unencumbered by rucksack full of food. I did a 15-mile round trip beyond Ludham and across the A149 main road to Hickling, beside the broad of the same name.

I was back in plenty of time for a shower before cooking my liver and bacon Saturday dinner. I deviated from Hannibal’s well publicized menu and drank a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon instead of a fine Chianti. 🙂

Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2 Tagged with: , , , , ,

Back to Norfolk

For a few years following my father’s retirement, my parents lived in Norfolk. They moved to the strangely named village, historically two villages, of Repps with Bastwick, as seen on the modern road sign, or, as can still be seen on the village sign using the much more intriguing Latin, Repps cum Bastwick. Until this year, when we popped up in June mainly in search of a localized dragonfly, the Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isosceles), I hadn’t visited Norfolk for over 20 years. In addition to finding the specialized wildlife, renewing our acquaintance with the picturesque Norfolk Broads was great. I suspected we’d be back.

We have recently returned from a 2-week walking trip in Tuscany, which was also our first visit to Italy in more than 20 years. Having been back at home for just five days, Francine turned right around and went straight back to Italy in the company of her mother to give the 91-year-old a treat. Actually, I think Francine really wanted to continue gelato comparisons in a newly begun effort to find the best Italian ice cream maker.

So, yours truly was to be left home on his Jack Jones. With the year now dying, the offer of redecorating the kitchen was unappealing and, interesting though 2013 has been in regards to pastures new (Singapore/Cambodia, Spain in summer, Tuscany), I had a couple of withdrawal symptoms brewing (France, New Forest). The idea of a solo trip in Guillaume formed; Guillaume would keep me company; we’d have a sort of male bonding trip. 🙂 I checked the weather forecasts and it seemed set to collapse both in the New Forest and in France. Curses! However, the poor weather looked to be arriving a little later in points further north and east, Norfolk looked good. I booked back into the Caravan Club site near Ludham.

This morning the alarm went at 4:30 AM. Franco-no-mates was booked to take Francine over to the aforementioned 91-year-old mother to board their 6:40 AM coach back to Italy. This time, they were to visit Lake Maggiore. Duty done, I returned home, loaded the car with a few essentials including my bicycle and, this time, a key to unlock it from the carrier :D, and prepared to set off. Norfolk should be about 2½ hours away but I also needed a fuel stop before collecting Guillaume. With a check-in time of 12:00 noon, I hit the road at 9:00 AM.

Sometimes, the simplest of things seem difficult. I headed for Asda about 10 miles away ‘cos it usually has the cheapest fuel around. Making a special journey there is a false economy ‘cos you use all the saving getting there and back. However, in this case, it was en route so made sense. The queues however, did not. Half the pumps were out of action and the remaining few had the diesel nozzles covered. I went on to a couple of nearby Shell stations where I found more covered-up diesel nozzles. Yikes! What gives? Back to Tesco near to my original Asda port of call. Phew! Not only was diesel available but, unusually, it was a little cheaper than Asda. However, at this point I really didn’t care what I paid for it. Much relieved with a brim full tank, I went to get Guillaume and we hit the road at 10:00 AM.

J01_4276 happy Guillaume We sailed along nicely until we hit road works widening the A11 around Thetford when we began to crawl along nicely and very slowly, in between complete stops, that is. I’m sure the end result will be worth it but it’s causing complete havoc in both directions. Guillaume and I finally checked-in at Ludham at 1:00 PM. The good news is that the weather was great and our favourite pitch, on grass tucked away in a corner, was free so I snagged it and we got installed. Guillaume was absolutely delighted.

J01_4246 female Common DarterA late afternoon/early evening saunter along the River Ant from Ludham Bridge proved a very pleasant way to unwind from the frustrations of the journey. I took the wildlife lens along. There were lots of uncooperative Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta) and slightly more cooperative female Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum) but nothing else with a heartbeat.

J01_4248 RBWThe evening light was wonderful. I even took a shine to a plant’s seed pods in it. If my botanist were here, I might know what the plant is. 🙂 I would have been better taking a landscape lens so let’s hope I get a repeat opportunity to correct my error.

[Francine and mater are spending night #1 at Saarbrücken in Germany. I hope they are comfortable.]

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Posted in 2013 Norfolk 2

Tuscany Retrospective: Chianti

For the second of our two back-to-back walking tours in Tuscany, we were off to the Chianti wine region. Our first tour leader, Ben, drove us back to Pisa airport, along with our companions that were flying out, to meet our second tour leader, Adrienne, who was at the airport meeting her coming week’s crowd. Adrienne merged us with her flying customers and drove us 90 minutes south to our hotel at Castellina in Chianti, the Salivolpi, which a couple of us couldn’t resist calling the Saliva-pol.

P1030191 Chianti hillsAs we left the autostrada and drove into the Chianti region itself, we were at last greeted by scenery that matched our mental image of Tuscany. Here were the more rounded, vine-covered hills with stark lines of columnar cypress trees, though the hills were more serious than we had expected, I think. The steeply sloping vineyards reminded me somewhat of those in the Beaujolais region of France.

This was Francine’s birthday week and we kicked it off with an unsettling glitch making for disturbed campers. The main problem was the room we were initially given at the Saliva-pol Salivolpi. Our room was right by reception with its unobscured bedroom window opening out directly onto the crunchy gravel car park and the equally crunchy pedestrian route leading to the the hotel’s main entrance. The bathroom window was little better but was, at least, obscured glass. Particularly with the room lights on, this was like living in a noisy fish bowl. Fortunately, the hotel staff jumped though hoops to juggle bookings and move us to another room. My advice would be to reject room #15 at the Saliva-pol Salivolpi.

A contributing difficulty to our unsettled demeanour, which probably wouldn’t affect everyone, was that we had just acclimatized to one set of companions in the best holiday accommodation we’d ever experienced, and had changed both with no intervening gap. I don’t think we’d choose to do two separate tours back-to-back again. A gap would make it feel like a new trip rather than a (dis)continuation.

_MG_6922 picnic preparationHaving said that, once the room was sorted out, our new companions were also great and once people got to know each other, we settled into having a very good time. The walking in Chianti was generally shorter and less strenuous than the mountains of the Garfagnana but, with the aforementioned higher-than-expected hills, they still got the heart pumping. Picking ripe figs off the trees beside our trails proved to be a popular source of entertainment. Naturally, as we were approaching harvest, a few of Chianti’s Sangiovese grapes were sampled along the way, too. Francine’s significant birthday lunch was a picnic in a Chianti vineyard, prepared by Adrienne and washed down by a Chianti classico that I’d carted along in my rucksack especially for the occasion. 😉

Between walks, this was a more varied week than the first with a considerable emphasis on culture, including, of course, the local vino of which the Italians are justly proud. Since we were now in a town, we reverted to Explore!’s normal format of no meals included. Instead, evenings were spent in restaurants where it was naturally de rigueur to sample bottles of Chianti classico. Happily, with the exception of one, these Italian restaurants did a lot better than those we experienced the previous week.

_MG_6824_MG_6949Other aspects of our Italian culture introduction were day trips to nearby Siena and Florence. I’m not a great city fan, being crowded places full of ladies that find passing a shop impossible, and offering such diversions as theatres and art galleries both of which fail to interest me. Fortunately, a couple of other males on the trip were of a similar mind and we distracted each other with the occasional beer to maintain sanity. Of the two, I found Sienna visually more appealing. The most notable thing to me about Florence was the apparently undeveloped water front of the river Arno flowing through it. Curious, I thought. Along with a couple of my male pals, I tried the Boboli gardens which consisted of grass, trees, paths and a couple of completely sterile-looking ponds, though I did find a dragonfly in residence on one of them. Given the complete lack of vegetation, I was very surprised.

P1030220 San Gimignano skylineThere was one other spot of town culture that I had to endure, although, with San Gimignano being the mid-point of a decent walk, that visit had its saving graces. San Gimignano’s old culture was for the town’s merchants to build tall towers. Building a taller tower was the way the rich of San Gimignano said “up yours” to their not-quite-so-rich neighbours.

There’s a quintessential Italian delicacy that we have thus far completely ignored: gelato [ice cream]. Wandering back from one restaurant in Castellina in Chianti, we came across an ice cream parlour (why does ice cream come from parlours?) open into the late evening. Casual investigation was fatal – the dark chocolate fondant looked irresistible, and so it proved to be. This was the most luxuriously decadent ice cream we had ever tasted. Rumours of other particularly fine ice creams available in Siena led to an on-going experiment, purely scientific, you understand. We just had to sample ice creams on our travels and decide which was the best. Our vote was unanimous, the ice creams from the late night parlour at Castellina in Chianti got our vote. Of course, we had to have another before leaving Chianti to verify our decision. 😉

P1030255 Francine picnic

Happy birthday Francine!

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Posted in 2013 Italy

Tuscany Retrospective: The Garfagnana

An Italian “gn” is like a Spanish “ñ” [enya]; so, this is pronounced “Garfanyana”.

Francine likes to be somewhere special for her birthday. That was particularly true this year, it being a special birthday. Enough said! After a little effort searching, Francine found something that appealed, a combination of two 1-week walking trips, both organized by Explore! and both in Tuscany, which Explore! confirmed we could do back-to-back. We are almost completely unfamiliar with Italy, having had but one prior brush with the Venice area some 25 years ago.

Week #1 of our re-introduction to Italy was Explore!’s Trails of Hidden Tuscany trip in a lesser known area of Tuscany called the Garfagnana. We flew from Gatwick and into Pisa, a town that is (in)famous for one thing and one thing only, a major Italian architectural cock-up. Well, maybe the architecture was good but the engineering was wrong. That would fit the typical Italian pattern of good design ruined by crappy build quality. No, we didn’t catch a glimpse of the leaning tower from the plane on the way in.

P1030099 Devils BridgeWe met our tour leader at Pisa airport and were driven to our accommodation for the week, a superb agriturismo [converted farmhouse] at La Villa. En route we passed the Devil’s Bridge – every country seems to have at least one Devil’s Bridge – where we chomped our first Italian sandwich while it began thrashing with rain. I opted for the ham sandwich, in preference to the mortadella sausage sandwich, and that’s exactly what I got, bread and ham; there was no lubrication whatsoever. This was a pattern that was repeated. It was tasty, though, and I added my own lubrication in the form of beer. 🙂

_MG_6421Because we were largely out in the middle of nowhere at La Villa, in a break from Explore!’s normal format, four evening meals, together with packed lunches for our walking days, were included and supplied by the utterly delightful couple, Amadeo and Rosa, who ran the agriturismo. Lunches were ample and consisted of two sandwiches of, you guessed it, decent bread containing ham or mortadella and … nothing else. Italian sandwiches seem to be minimalist [a.k.a. dry] in that they comprise bread, a meaty filling, and nothing else. Some of our number on the trip were having a hard time with dry sandwiches made of real bread that required chewing. Following representation, on subsequent days, sliced tomatoes, freshly picked from the agriturismo’s garden, magically moistened things up a bit. Much better.

Our included evening meals even came complete with wine in reasonably copious quantity. Amadeo was a man after my own heart and clearly enjoyed a drink. He also liked to force a shot or two of home-made grappa upon his unsuspecting guests as a digestivo. What a man! Grappa, it must be said, varies tremendously from the very good to something more akin to lighter fuel. I think we had both available. 😀 Other booze, including wines and beers, was available at other times via an honesty bar – mark off what you take and settle up and the end of the week. Great system, great hosts.

_MG_6555Prior to departure, we had a preconceived image of Tuscany, a mental image which, I suspect, had been created by the work of various landscape photographers. The Garfagnana did not match our mental image. Whereas we were expecting a rolling countryside featuring meadows and columnar cypress trees, what we got was seriously craggy mountains and woodland. As usual with seriously craggy mountains, there were frequently some seriously grey clouds either above them or, occasionally, at their feet. The constantly changing early morning mist/cloud formations billowing up from the valley were really quite intriguing. The main intrigue was in trying to figure out what the coming day might hold. Fortunately, our days walking up to the higher peeks – we hit a little over 2000m – were dry and largely bright with nothing worse than atmospheric cloud cover. We enjoyed the mountain walks tremendously.

P1030138-sizedA word on walking/trekking. Our party of 14 (plus the leader) suffered two fortuitously relatively minor injuries due, IMHO, to personal equipment. Injury #1 befell a lady who slipped descending a steep muddy slope folding her leg beneath her as she sat unceremoniously down: she wrenched her knee/ankle. Though she had been equipped with trekking poles, she wasn’t using them; they were strapped to her rucksack being purely decorative. Injury #2 happened when another, very sporty lady, walking in rather lightweight trainers/walking shoes, accidentally drop-kicked a sizeable boulder bruising/breaking (she couldn’t decide which) her toe. Stout walking boots would have prevented that type of injury. Using appropriate walking gear is the trekking equivalent of a motorcyclist donning leathers, even if it is summer, for protection. Should you be unfortunate enough to skid along the tarmac, it’s the cow skin rather than the motorcyclist’s own skin that gets abraded. Enough said.

P1030155 Cinque TerraOne day took us out of the mountains and on a very different kind of walk along a section of the Cinque Terre, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of the Tuscan Riviera. Getting to the walk involved dealing with three Italian trains for a couple of hours. Section #1 of the walk itself was essentially a cobbled pedestrian motorway comprised largely of high steps unsuitable for anyone shorter than 6ft/1.85m. The general pedestrian traffic on said motorway consisted of the usual assortment of beach brigade bods clad in inappropriate footwear (see above). I actually spotted one guy in cheap rubber toe-post flip-flops carrying his young child on his back in a ruck-sack papoose device. I dreaded to think what might have happened to his rugrat had he slipped/tripped and fallen. Our walking boots and trekking poles certainly looked overkill compared to the surrounding fashion but the poles certainly helped those shorter than 6ft/1.85m down the tall steps. The intended section #2 of the walk had been closed, literally just before we got there, due to a landslide. We were not unhappy to call an early halt. We hopped on a crowded boat instead before dealing with another three trains over another couple of hours to return to sanity. I suppose the coast is quite pretty but we didn’t enjoy this particular interlude. It was far too much effort for far too little gain. The Cinque Terre seems to be the draw that gets many people to sign up for this trip, though, so it’s included. Give me the peace, solitude and majesty of the mountain landscapes any day. It was a relief to return to them the following day.

Italian food has a high reputation. Certainly, the home cooking of the agriturismo was excellent, though some might have called it basic, perhaps. When it came to our few brushes with restaurants, I formed a somewhat more qualified opinion; whilst each individual course may have been very tasty food, as a diet the Italian mixture sucked. For example, in one fixed price/fixed menu restaurant, we were presented with a fairly typical cold meat antipasto course, followed by a risotto course, a gnocchi course, and no less than two pasta courses. Were there any real vegetables in evidence? No. I know we were on a walking holiday but this was carbo-blasting of the highest order. To cap it all, on our day off in Lucca, I was presented with the worst pizza I’ve ever had, though admittedly I chose badly in selecting the seafood pizza. What’s the point serving half a dozen mussels in their shells on a pizza, pray tell? They need to be removed from the pizza to eat them. The twice-cooked, heads-on prawns needed similar treatment and were now predictably overcooked, too. Pathetic! Lesson learned: keep pizzas simple.

So, all in all a slightly surprising but mostly enjoyable week in a delightful location and in the company of the finest hosts I’ve ever experienced, despite the lack of any roughage in the restaurant food.

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Posted in 2013 Italy

Spanish Correction

I’m a good one for this: when I’m fortunate enough to bump into a new dragonfly species, I concentrate most framing and focusing whilst tending glibly to assume that any similar looking dragonfly in my viewfinder is another one of those new suspects. I’m now back from Spain after three days of arduous driving and going through my shots for some well-deserved R&R.

J01_3726 Epaulet SkimmerEarly in our trip, as reported in Brand New Friend, courtesy of eagle-eyed Francine, I bumped into my first ever Epaulet Skimmer (Orthetrum chrysostigma). Here, again, is that first Epaulet Skimmer.

Later on and acting on information that I might find Black Pennants (Selysiothemis nigra) in residence, we set off for the Aula Natura de la Marjal de Gandia. We had no luck with the Black Pennants but we did see several more examples of what I assumed to be more Epaulet Skimmers, though I was also thinking that they looked a little different. I think I tended to put this down to age – theirs, I mean, not mine. 😀

How wrong can could I have been? Back at home and with more time to compare features with my reference books, I’m now convinced that these were my second brand new species of the trip. The Gandia suspects did look a little waisted from the rear angle but the colour is all wrong, much more slate grey, and there’s no sign of any “epaulet”, even given that these are frequently hidden by dropped wings.

J01_3835 Long Skimmer J01_3837 Long Skimmer J01_3839 Long Skimmer J01_3846 Long Skimmer

Even though the distribution map in Dijkstra/Lewington has us out of range, that’s old information and the DragonflyPix website shows the whole Iberian peninsula as being in range. These characters are the so-called Long Skimmer (Orthetrum trinacria). They are much more slate-gray in colour, the eyes are bluer and the frons yellower. The swollen S2 tends to make the abdomen look a bit pinched but it’s really quite uniformly skinny and a v. dark colour in the mature male. The pterostigmas are huge, too. One of the pictures is what I think is a maturing male showing the underlying abdominal pattern resembling the female’s as shown in Dijkstra/Lewington.

I’d better go back and correct my original incorrect post. 😯

Posted in 2013 France and Spain

Last Leg Home

Yesterday, I forgot to mention that Sally Satnav had recovered from her little Pyrenean malfunction; she had lost satellites overnight, having been turned off, and re-acquired satellites again yesterday morning. All the way to Chartres, she was plotting our little car where it should be, on the road.

With 900 miles/1440 kms of our journey behind us, today’s third leg of our journey should be a little simpler. It’s a mere 215 miles/350 kms from Chartres to Calais, then 130 miles/210 kms home from Dover, following the 90-minute ferry crossing. As is our habit with Chartres, we set off in the rain at 8:00 AM.

Not knowing much about journeys of this length, I had originally booked a ferry at ~6:30 PM. Chartres to Calais, though, is a breeze, especially in light Sunday morning traffic, and we rolled into the ferry port at 12:30 PM having been diverted around Rouen due to a major river bridge being closed and having stopped at the last French service area for our final slightly cheaper fill-up of diesel.

“We’re a little early for our ferry”, announced Francine, grinning.

“So I see”, replied the P&O check-in clerk. “That’s OK, I can get you on the next sailing at 1:35 PM. That’ll be £60.” [I’ve rounded up from £59.something.]

It’s just about worth £60 not to hang around Calais for four hours with home in tantalising sight, so we went for it and joined the line waiting to board.

I thought Italians were supposed to have style but apparently it’s not a universal trait. Waiting alongside us in the boarding lines was an Italian chap wearing a blue-ish jumper, green-ish checked shorts and white plimsoll-like shoes with knee-length black socks. Sartorially elegant, he certainly wasn’t. In a stroke of archetypical genius, though, perhaps trying to distract us from his choice in clothing, he was playing Italian opera music from his car stereo. Inspector Morse meets Mr. Muppet.

The crossing went smoothly, as did our journey home through the Dartford tunnel and round the M25, minus anything worse than a speed limit through miles of road works which, apparently, are continuing until 2015. Yikes! We arrived home at 4:30 PM.

The Spanish summer weather was all that I’d hoped: wall to wall sunshine. Temperatures had been high (for us), 30+°C/86+°F, every day and without too much in the way of humidity. I found it very pleasant and soon fell into the “expect tomorrow to be fine” frame of mind. One day, sitting on the naya with Chris, I asked if he’d ever had a bad summer during their 10 years in Spain. He considered this for a while and replied, “more humid ones”. I laughed.

Spain cannot manage the wildlife interest of the south of France, it’s a much more arid, desiccated country. There really is a dramatically stark change as you cross the meteorological dividing line of the Pyrenean mountain chain. Spain does, however, have what seems to be a guaranteed summer.

In the main French holiday season, the journey was arduous and I’d think more than twice before doing it at this time of year again. At quieter times of year, it should be noticeably easier. We were, however, going to join Chris for his early August birthday, and to witness a fiesta, hence the timing. Maybe a Ferry to northern Spain (Bilbao or Santander) would be an interesting and more relaxing option for any similar future trip.

Quite an experience.

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Posted in 2013 France and Spain