Finding a Legal Eagle

[Another retrospective post. ;-)]

Having secured our intended property in Jalón, and by secured I mean that our 3000€ deposit was accepted which apparently “takes the property off the market” for 3 months, our next task was to find a Spanish Legal Eagle to act on our behalf. The agent who showed us around the property, Jaime, at Garcia Villas in Jalón itself, had put us in contact with one particular law firm, based in nearby Moraira, that was supposedly familiar with these properties. A bit of prior experience sounded good. They emailed us a list of their services together with an estimate of their charges, which was noted as being 1500€ plus VAT @ 21%, i.e. 1815€.

Meanwhile, Francine had been rummaging around the Internet – what did we ever do without it? – and found the Spain Buying Guide. Clearly this had something of an axe to grind but it at least provided a sense check. Francine downloaded some documentation which, of course, put them in touch with us. They may well have an axe to grind but they do seem to be genuinely helpful. One thing that happened was that a solicitor, based in Alicante, got in touch with us offering a very package for 950€.

Time for a swift aside. As well as the normal legal stuff involved in buying  a property, searches etc., various other bits of bureaucracy have to be dealt with when buying a property in Spain. In order to buy in Spain, one needs something called an NIE [Número de Identidad de Extranjero, which translates as ‘Identification number for foreigners’]. I believe this is also necessary to set up a bank account from which direct debits for utilities, etc. can be arranged. Speaking of utilities, utility meters need to be organized for the new property (if it’s new, as ours is). These things were mentioned in the “packages” as being dealt with by the Legal Eagles.

The packages from both Legal Eagles looked very similar – good thing – but one, the one based in Alicante, was about half the price of the other in Moraira. I emailed the one in Moraira explaining that we’d prefer someone more local but that they seemed very expensive compared to others. Back they came saying that they could shave off 500€ for properties up to 100,000€.

Ah ha, ours, being an end unit, was priced at 105,000€. Awkward! Back I went explaining in another email and asking if there was any flexibility or whether that meant we were stuck with the higher price. They agreed to the reduced fee. They were still a tad more expensive but we’d avoid any 2-hour round trips to Alicante and the agent seems to have a reasonable relationship with them. So, I accepted.

50% of the Legal Eagle’s fee is payable up front to get them started so I was in to my second international money transfer and second attempt at not transposing any of another 24-character IBAN number. This time I tried one of the companies specializing in international transfers. Being a modest amount, the rate wasn’t exceptional, 1.24 – they are better for larger amounts – but I quickly set up an account at CaxtonFX and 605€ entered the ether. Heart in mouth once again.

A second sigh of relief was breathed as my money arrived at the correct Legal Eagle’s account.

I guess someone finds all this kind of thing less than nerve-wracking but that someone isn’t me. 😀

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Heart in Mouth

[This is one of those retrospective posts, written after the event :)]

We were introduced to the Jalón Valley on Spain’s Costa Blanca back in May 2006 by our next door neighbours. That  long weekend trip was our first Spanish experience but, as a result, in 2007 we began an illustrious career house-and-pet-sitting for two other expat couples living there permanently. Most of our services were to one couple in particular, with whom we are now good friends. Our services were once again required between 22nd November and 6th December, 2014. We flew out.

Our hosts are trying to sell up and move back to the UK. Poor Scamp, a.k.a. el perrito, he hates the rain. Poor us, our house-and-dog-sitting days may be drawing to a close. We’ve grown rather attached to this little valley in Spain over the last seven years and have made a few friends there. the thought of not going again didn’t sit well, on my shoulders, anyway. Neither, it seems, did it sit well on Francine’s shoulders. This came as a bit of a surprise to me until it was explained to me that the thought of moving to Spain lock, stock and barrel was not viewed favourably but the concept of a holiday home there did appeal. So, we had in our minds that we might use this two week trip to cast our eye over properties in case anything grabbed.

We used our time to wander over to some apartments being sold apparently very cheaply (~50,000€ for two bedrooms) in Lliber, a village in the same valley. Though cheap, they didn’t really appeal. A cheap property is only good value if you actually want it and could feel at home in it. I think it dampened our enthusiasm a little.

On our last full day, our friends’ agent dropped by for a viewing of their house and we arranged to see some other apartments in another development in Jalón. The apartments in question were actually 2-story town houses half way up the mountain on the north side of the valley, facing south. They are built in blocks of 5 ort 6 units, which look a little like prison blocks from a distance, hence their affectionate local nickname amongst the expats of Colditz. So, I didn’t have particularly high expectations. Jaime, the agent, collected us and drove us up for a viewing.

Well, we liked the show house the instant we walked in. A pleasant, airy, modern, open plan space with master bedroom, bathroom, kitchen and lounge/diner on the upper level, and two further bedrooms and shower room on the lower level. Here’s the floor plan.

Casa Floor Plan

We were impressed and, actually, from close to, the blocks weren’t as bad as we had suspected and the nickname would have one believe. I was sorely tempted to say yes immediately but I’m by nature a cautious person. Calm down, John, think.

During our Saturday return flight to the UK, we thought:

  • we’ll be losing our house-sitting assignment;
  • Spanish property prices are about as low as they’ve ever been because of the financial crisis;
  • the pound/euro rate is as good as it’s been for 6 years [~1.27 at time of writing];
  • within a week or two, I was expecting proceeds from the sale of my late mother’s flat in the UK;

Timing couldn’t be a lot better. We’re 61, not getting any younger and it’s time for some excitement. We decided to go for it.

There were 24 units for sale but we really wanted one of the end units so that we had only one neighbour and, of course, there are considerably fewer end units. We also preferred a west-end unit for the evening sun; now we were down to a choice of two, I think. We made our selection.

OK, decision made. My first challenge was to transfer a 3000€ holding deposit to the bank that is selling these properties. The builder got into difficulties and a bank is selling them, hence the bargain basement price. There are companies that specialize in foreign money transfers and they give a much better rate than a high street bank. On large amounts, it can amount to a large saving. However, for expediency on the initial deposit, since such an account takes a while to set up, I just decided to use my local Barclays.

So, on Tuesday 9th December, three days after landing back at home, I wandered into Barclays and arranged for my first ever international money transfer. The thing with online money transactions that makes me nervous is the transposing of, say, two digits and sending wads of cash flying off the wrong person. Here I was dealing with a 24-character IBAN (International Bank) number; the possibilities for cock-up were almost endless. Heart in mouth! My 3000€ whizzed off into the ether … somewhere.

Another good test as to the sense of our decision: we would have been upset were we to fail to secure our chosen property.

Today, Thursday 11th I heard that our deposit had arrived in the right place safely. Phew!

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Xàbia al Plat Mariner

Another grey day in the valley that we could, perhaps, escape, if we headed for the coast. Our chosen target this time was Jávea/Xàbia which, I think, is another Brit stronghold a little further north up the Mediterranean coast. Before we get there, though a little linguistic digression/question.

The accent mark over some Spanish vowels doesn’t change the sound, as such, but is a stress mark. Now, I couldn’t help but notice that in Jávea, the regular Spanish (i.e. Castillian), it’s an “acute” accent mark, whereas in Xàbia (i.e. Valenciana), it’s a “grave” accent mark. I then wondered if this was a language difference, Castillian versus Valenciana. that falls down, though, when I look at Jalón (Castillian) and Xaló (Valenciana). Now I’m really confused. If anyone finds out, do please let me know. Anyway …

Jávea/Xàbia did not disappoint – the sun was shining. There was a moderate breeze blowing the usually calm Mediterranean up into cresting waves crashing onto the stoney beach. The foam from the top of the waves fizzed almost inaudibly as the bubbles burst. There followed a delightful trickling noise as the water percolated back over the small, round pebbles into the sea, ready for the process to start all over again. I could have just sat, closed my eyes and listened all afternoon.

I didn’t just sit and listen, though, and it was just as well. We wandered along to the harbour area where we stumbled across a gaggle of people, banners and hubbub. We could hear what sounded like an auction emanating from the fish market building. The banner announced “Xàbia al Plat Mariner”, a sort of a seafood fest. We went in to find several stalls handing out food though folks appeared to handing over tickets rather than money for the tasty morcels. A little further study revealed that we were to buy tickets outside, €2 per tapa, €1.50 for a glass of vino, and exchange them inside for our chosen delicacies. We opted for 4 tapas and a glass of vino each.

_MG_6486_MG_6485_MG_6484Our first irresistible item was a “mini hamburguesa de sepia con pan de tinta” which, I believe, translates as “small cuttlefish hamburger with bread coloured with its ink”. It was utterly delicious. Given that this Parador de Jávea seemed so skilled, we couldn’t resist trying their other offering, “pastel de gallineta con gambas y salsa de cítricos”  which was, I think a “mousse of guinea-fowl with prawns with a citrus fruit sauce”; again, delicious.

_MG_6490It certainly didn’t go downhill from there but those two offerings were so good that all others were going to be struggling a little, I thought. This pulpo a la plancha [grilled octopus] was very good, though. 😀

We wandered back listening once again to the hypnotic crash of waves and trickle of water on the beach. A swift visit into the uniquely designed church – it resembles a ship’s bow – swapped the sound of water for the sound of classical music as a rehearsal for an upcoming Mozart concert was in progress. Returning again to the promenade, a coffee delayed our departure a little longer.

Posted in 2014 Spain

Moraira Reed Bed

Our valley was mostly grey and rather uninspiring again today. We’d spent our best spell of sunshine waiting in various queues inside Dénia hospital. Once again, however, the skies looked as though they might be brighter towards the coast so, having used Calpe as an escape route already, today we elected to try our luck at Moraira. A large patch of blue sky grew larger in our windscreen as we approached along the twisting Spanish local roads, which seem to be a collection of hairpin bends strung together by, well, less severe bends.

Sure enough, Moraira was bathed in sunshine and basking in a temperature close to 20°C. I think it’s a bit of a Brit stronghold. We sat outside a bar with a cup of coffee and another pair of Brits at the table next to ours were enjoying a bottle of rosado between them. Soon, they were enjoying a second bottle of rosado. 😉

Moraira has a very different feel to Calpe. Off season, Moraira is very quiet. I’d characterize it as a typical seaside town, typical for this part of the world, that is, busy in summer but quiet at other times. Many of the shops and other trading establishments are closed and shuttered, presumably because there isn’t enough trade to give them all a viable business at this time of year. Calpe, on the other hand, seems more like a town that happens to be on the coast, if you see my distinction. Yes, a lot of Calpe’s business may be in the form of summer sun-worshippers toasting on its beaches but there is a also a reasonably vibrant community living and shopping there off season. that’s just my impression, for what it’s worth.

J14_2727 Sympetrum striolatum MorairaThere’s a small pond/lake spilling out across the beach into the sea at Moraira. It is a much smaller water body than Las Salinas, the lagoon at Calpe, and, other than birds, I am yet to find any critters of my kind there. I think it’s fresh water, though, so it had to be worth a quick look. We started wandering around the perimeter. About half way around, I spotted movement as something appeared to rise from the top rail of the surrounding fence. Sure enough a dragonfly settled a little further along the rail behind me. As coastal as this location is, if I was expecting to find anything, it would have been a Red-veined Darter (Sympetrum fonscolombii) but this character was quite clearly a Common Darter (Sympetrum striolatum). As far as I could see, it was all alone, too.

J14_2723 Bath WhiteThere was one other critter worthy of note. We’ve seen quite a few butterflies since arriving – there are still flowers around for nectar feeders – and I spotted a white butterfly flitting about. Normally, white butterflies cause a bit of a yawn but this character was a bit different, showing an interesting pattern on the underside of its hind-wings. I’d seen something like this before in France and suspected I recognized it as a Bath White (Pontia daplidice). I can’t really confirm that until I get back to by books, though.

When grey, escape to the coast. 🙂

Posted in 2014 Spain

A Novel Experience

Francine had a disturbing night; she was complaining of lights or streaks in the right periphery of her vision, most noticeable in the dark. The effect was still there this morning.

We were supposed to be going for a walk with neighbours but, with an amazing attack of sense, decided to try to consult a local optician beforehand. After all, at home, we’d be straight onto our friendly optician. There’s a suitable establishment in the village/small town (whatever it  is), so we drove down and sat outside in the car waiting for 10:00 AM, the appointed opening time. That, of course, was 10:00 AM Spanish time. At 10:10 AM there were still no signs of life. At 10:15 AM, we were about to give up when, almost magically, the electrically controlled shutters began to rise. A young lady approached and began unlocking. We gave her a couple more minutes to get organized and then went in.

Fortunately, she had a few words of English. Francine explained her symptoms and asked if anyone could check her out. “Yes, I can”, replied the young lady. She could’ve stared into my eyes anytime she wanted – maybe I could develop some flashing lights. She sat Francine down, looked into her right eye and said, “you must go to hospital”, muttering something about her retina, along with a word which sounded horribly like “down”. There’s a 24-hour medical centre in Benissa just a few miles away but, no, we needed to go to Dénia hospital a few stops up the autopista. She also muttered something about laser. Gulp! “Come back and tell me what they do”, she said.

Off we set. The hospital was easy to find, which is just as well since we had no idea where we were going. At first, it looked much like an English hospital in that there seemed to be completely inadequate parking; cars were littered all over the place on the approach roads, round bends, on grass verges, almost anywhere they could be. Wondering where I’d be able to abandon ship, I dropped Francine off outside the urgencias door and went looking. I found an underground car park and followed another car down. I took a ticket, the barrier raised and I soon found several available parking spots. Maybe the Spanish who’d abandoned their cars all around the roads simply didn’t want to pay the €1.10 hourly charge. I went in search of Francine.

Any similarity with an English hospital started and stopped with the vehicles abandoned everywhere. Here was a shiny, clean, well decorated modern building that looked appropriate to its tasks. It took me about 10 minutes for find urgencias again but, when I did, there sat Francine, in a small waiting room, complete with a somewhat familiar plastic hospital admission band on her wrist. This one bore a QR code, though, which I doubt that ours have. She’d flashed her EHIC card and had been welcomed.  A TV played high up in the corner of the room. The seats were pretty hard, though. We were waiting for triage.

After 15 minutes or so, a lady popped in and called “Francine”. We were shepherded into a room where, after a brief discussion with a lady with a little English and quick “light flicked over the eyes” test, something about opthalmology was mentioned. Back to the waiting room.

After 5 or 10 more minutes, another young lady turned up and led us through more doors on a much longer journey through the maze of bright, well decorated corridors, to another waiting room. This journey was more interesting since we have no Spanish and our escort had no English. We picked up a few sounds like “SIP” (we’d seen signs mentioning SIP – seemed to be a Spanish patient id, or some such) and tarjeta [card]. Francine produced her EHIC card  again which promptly went for a walk, the word “later” trailing in its wake. Someone knew what they were doing, just not us.

We were in the consultas externas area, which sounds awfully like outpatients. A longer wait this time. We amused ourselves watching the electronic video screen which appeared to be summoning waiting patients, signified by “AAnnnn” numbers – maybe these were the SIPs – into various consultation rooms numbered 33-42. 38-42 were beside a sign saying oftalmologia.

Eventually Francine was called again, this time to have some dilating eye drops administered. Magically, her EHIC card had reappeared in the pocket of the eye drop lady and it was now accompanied by a proper Spanish patient number scribbled on a piece of paper. Her note also said she would be heading for room 40.

Spanish PrescriptionRoom 40 was running late; we had watched as its occupant had been called in order to assist a more complex case elsewhere, or that’s what we thought. We waited about 45 minutes while room 40 stood empty with its door wide open.  Finally, room 40 swung back into action as the electronic board began summoning AAnnnn patients into it. A backlog had naturally built up but each patient was taking only 5 minutes or so. Francine’s AAnnnn appeared on the electronic board. We went in whereupon the doctor, sharp as a scalpel, swiftly realized Spanish wasn’t going to cut it. He switched to English to give both Francine’s eyes a minute examination, after which we were relieved to hear that, “your retina is OK now”. Read into that phrase what you will; we had to. Francine was “prescribed” some “vitamins to strengthen her eye”. I say prescribed but the prescription consisted of a note scribbled on a piece of A4 paper with a hospital stamp to make it look official. Excellent! Who needs more? Any pharmacist, we were told, would supply the pills. Vitamins for two months – far preferable to any laser treatment that might have been necessary. We didn’t care how much the pills would cost given the alternatives we had been fearing.

Other than to worry about Francine’s condition, three hours in a Spanish hospital had been a very favourable experience and, frankly, had put our hospital experiences at home to shame. Don’t get me wrong, the care at home is good, when you eventually get it, but the environment and establishments themselves suck, in general. Just try a trip to A&E and see how you get on , what it looks and feels like, and how long it takes.

I didn’t feel too bright myself in the late afternoon/evening. I think, with the distraction of being busy now removed, nerves had finally kicked in and were making themselves known. An early night was in order.

Oh, the pills were about €35.

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Got the Bug

After a lazy Sunday recovering from our day travelling to get here – lazy apart from an early morning run back to Alicante airport to drop our hosts off for their flight back to Blighty, that is –  our valley wasn’t looking too cheery this morning. The valley was dry but grey, so, after a gentle start designed to wake us up and warm the day up somewhat, we made for Calpe to investigate Las Salinas. Calpe is coastal, so it often has brighter weather and, being lower, i.e. at sea level instead of 300m up, it is usually warmer, too.

We’ve seen dragonflies, Red-veined Darters (Sympetrum fonscolombii), around Las Salinas, a coastal lagoon, before, out of what we would regard as season, so I was interested to see if we could find any more. We parked and began wandering but it was a little breezy and nothing was in evidence. There were Flamingos out in the middle of the lagoon. There are usually Black Stilts around, too, but I couldn’t see any sign of those. A cormorant was drying its wings.

J14_2701 Painted LadyJ14_2688 Clouded YellowWe made our way towards a board walk with overlooks the landward side of the lagoon. There were butterflies flitting about, most of which were Painted Ladies, though there were a few bright Clouded yellows, too. There are several different species of Clouded Yellow but I’ve never seen any closely enough to begin trying to spot the differences. Irritatingly, they always sit with their wings closed.

All looked quiet at the end of the boardwalk until Francine finally spotted a movement. At some distance, I could just make out a female Red-veined Darter, perched on a grass stem in a hollow and sheltering from the wind. Surely where there was one, there should be more. We drew a blank, though, she seemed to be it. We turned back, satisfied that we’d found one but not exactly thrilled. Still, it was getting towards the end of November.

J14_2698 Solenosthedium bilunatumAs we made our way back along the boardwalk, hawk-eyed Francine again spotted something on  pine cone, flapping in the breeze. It looked like a Shieldbug of some kind but not one that we were familiar with. Despite flacking in the breeze, I managed a half-way decent shot for later (hopeful) identification. As it turned out, the twin light patches on its elytra (the wing covers are called elytra on beetles so I’m hoping that’s what they’re called on Shieldbugs, too?) made it quite easy, once found. This distinctive character rejoices in the name of Solenosthedium bilunatum, the light patches being the bilunata. Excellent, a brand new Shieldbug for the collection, and with an impressive name, too. 😀 Much more satisfied.

J14_2712 Sympetrum fonscolombiiApproaching the car, the day had warmed a little more and we finally scared up a couple of dragonflies, both Red-veined Darters, one male and one female. They weren’t particularly cooperative at first but eventually the male settled somewhere to allow a decent line up. We scared a few more up as we progressed, about six in all, I’d say, though with them moving about so much counting is always a challenge.

It was relatively hard work but worth it in the end.

Posted in 2014 Spain

The Joys of Travel

Once again we’ve been invited out to Jalón, Spain, to look after a house and our favourite little dog. Of course, when it comes to me and dogs, favourite doesn’t mean very much ‘cos I don’t like ‘em. This one, however, despite being a terrier-like beast, the worst of all types of dogs, is really quite cute, occasionally reaching the dizzy heights of endearing. I still think we should’ve resisted messing about with wolves, though.

But I digress. At 5:00 AM today, a taxi turned up to ferry us off to Luton Airport. This trip is odd in a couple of ways. Firstly, our dates coincide with those of our immediate neighbours who are spending the very same two weeks in their little Spanish hacienda. It is they who got us into our house-and-dog-sitting gigs in the first place. So, we shared the taxi.

The second way in which this is odd is that it may prove to be our last house-and-dog-sitting booking. Our friends have their Spanish house on the market, intending to move back to the UK. On a personal note, this is very sad. I also have misgivings because I have witnessed the unbounded joy on Chris’s face when he has returned to Spain from a visit to England. I know the dog will hate it; he doesn’t like the rain in Spain. [Cue: well known phrase.] These thoughts wandered around my head as we headed fro the airport.

There are two fine things about Luton,  one is the M1 motorway and the other is the airport – both get you the hell out of Luton and somewhere else reasonable swiftly. We pitched up at the airport at 5:30 AM in time for the easyJet baggage drop to be open. The baggage drop was very civilized with only three sets of baggage droppers ahead of us. Security was another story – the lines were very long. Still, I suppose you have to do something whilst waiting for boarding time and undressing for the security scanners followed by redressing for the departure “lounge” is as good as anything. Shoes off, belts off, jackets off, computers out of sleeves  – shoes back on, belts back on, jackets back on, computers back in sleeves. What a world. I know it’s necessary.

Our neighbours were already through; with a house full of kit in Spain, they had no baggage to drop. We met them at one of the many coffee bars, all of which were heaving. The misleadingly named “departure lounge – there is no where to lounge., as such – was absolutely heaving, at 6:00 AM. Any traditionally less than comfortable seats were occupied, the coffee lounges were full. Most of the floor space was occupied by family groups waiting. Moving around the lounge was decidedly difficult with groups of individuals standing staring up at the departure boards waiting to see which gate they should hurry off to to board their flight.The bars were full.  Even as a man who loves to imbibe, I can never understand sitting in a bar with a pint of lager at 6:00 AM. I can’t even face food at 6:00 AM. Yikes!

This wasn’t a school holiday and it wasn’t a particularly special weekend but it was a weekend. We don’t normally do this sort of thing at the weekend. We had chosen these dates to coincide with the neighbours but, since they are also retired, I wonder they’d chosen the weekend. I hadn’t even thought about it until now. Curious. IN the space of an hour, there were 10 easyJet flights departing. They all looked as if they’d be full. There were 9 Whizz flights, too. Polish is now the second language in our neck of the woods. We’ve even got a new Polish shop in town. [Note to self: must take a look to see what interesting stuff it might have.] Travel really was a much more enjoyable experience when less folks were doing it. Maybe we need to put prices back up?

We boarded, all seats were full and some carry-on baggage had to be checked into the hold. At least when it’s checked at the gate, you’re sure it gets onto the correct plane. 🙂

We arrived after a crowded but uneventful 2¼–hour flight. The Alicante skies had a high overcast but it was dry and considerably warmer at 18°C. It’s good to be back but I wonder if we’ll get to do it again?

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The Final Sprint

I say sprint ‘cos today was a short run of just about 2 miles, about an hour, back to Juniper’s home base at Wyvern Shipping in Leighton Buzzard. Narrow boats don’t really sprint even when they are not having to slow to pass moored craft. 🙂

It was another dry morning, though a little dull. What a September we’d had and what weather for what has turned out to be our 2-week trip. We’d had a few spots of rain on our first afternoon/evening but that was it; after that, we’d enjoyed mainly sunny, dry conditions. Good job, too, ‘cos steering a narrow boat and messing with locks in the rain would have been most unenjoyable.

Our first task after casting off this morning was to negotiate the very last one of the documented 175 locks on the Thames Ring. (I imagine that the 175 includes the several manned/powered locks on the River Thames but I haven’t checked.) Francine was all dressed up for her anticipated disembarkation so Franco did this, the Grove Lock, tout seul.

With the 175th lock successfully behind us, Capt. Virginia began cruising slowly passing moored boats and Tiddenfoot Park. His final sprint wasn’t plain sailing in that this was Saturday so the canal suddenly filled with swarms of canoeists most of whom were school children. Embarrassing last minute collisions were mercifully avoided.

Capt. Virginia continued round a few bends, under our final bridge, passed the Leighton Buzzard Tesco store to our right [sorry, starboard] and began to swing across the canal to Juniper’s moorings at Wyvern’s boatyard. Just as he was doing so, yet another swarm of canoeists, older this time, descended upon us from ahead shouting “narrow boat, narrow boat!” to each other in warning. Despite their warning each other, nobody seemed to slow down, I noticed. This narrow boat skipper now had 2 weeks worth of experience under his tiller arm and avoided them. They may have been faster than Juniper but they weren’t going to get to us before we made it to the dock.

We tied up and unloaded while Capt. Virginia completed the scant formalities of bringing the boat home three days early.

We’d done it, we’d completed the Thames Ring in 2 weeks, which it was originally said could be done. I confess, though, that for most of the time, I had generally doubted it.

Our journey had certainly been an experience but in truth had been little more than cruise, cruise, lock, lock. We’d done pretty much nothing in the way of tourism. This was entirely due to the timing uncertainties of our circular route with no quick way back. Having done it once, were we to do it again our experience would enable us to pace the journey more and to pick places to stop off and relax en route. We were all agreed, though, that we would not do it again even with the luxury of knowledge and more time time.

Enjoyable though our trip was in the company of exceptional friends, the canals just aren’t what they were 15 years ago.

Day 15 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Olympic Locking

Our penultimate day. Having made good time round The Ring and looking as though we’d complete the trip with a few days in hand, there had been talk aboard of using our extra time diverting down the Aylesbury Arm and back. However, even our captain seemed to be looking forward to a change so we opted for the straight shot home.

A narrow-boating friend of ours used to say of cruising on the canals, “4 miles an hour, 4 locks an hour”. It’s a common epithet. These days, I’d say that the “4 miles an hour” has been blown out of the water by the sheer number of moored boats now strewn along almost every stretch of the canal. However, given a little fortune, I  think the expectation of 4 locks an hour, i.e. 15 minutes through each one, can still hold true.

Today is Francine’s birthday [happy birthday Francine] and, having rejected a diversion to Aylesbury, our plan was to cruise from Berkhamsted to Grove Lock just south of Leighton Buzzard, only a mile or so from Juniper’s home boat yard with Wyvern Shipping. This is a trip of just 15 miles but there is a daunting total of 26 locks en route. A swift mental calculation suggests that we’d spend some 6½ hours just locking up and down. In the unlikely event that we could cover the water at 3 mph past all the obstructions, we’d be adding about 5 hours cruising suggesting a total time of 11½ hours. That’d make us late for Francine’s birthday meal with friends at the other end. Nail-biting stuff.

After a night at our pleasant Berkhamsted mooring, we hit the water at 8:30 AM straight into the first lock, after which we stopped for water. With Juniper’s debugged hose reel, our fill up took a mere 10 minutes instead of the best part of an hour. Just think, had we fixed it earlier, we could’ve saved a whole day. 😀

We didn’t encounter any traffic earlier in the trip and progress through locks was about as swift as it can get, especially with the lock team of Franco and Francine walking ahead preparing more closely separated locks in advance of Juniper’s approach. Lunch time saw us near Marsworth and the Red Lion pub. Capt. Virginia generously decided that his tiring crew deserved a lunch break so we moored in a suitable gap. Welcome though the break was, I couldn’t help but think, “yikes, we haven’t got time in hand to stop”.

After a pint and a bite, we resumed locking down towards LB. Quite soon we bumped into the back (not literally) of a broad-beamed lunch-cruise boat also locking down with a bunch of diners on board. Delay. Fortunately this delay was short because after one lock it pulled into its home base at Pitstone Wharf.

A closed swing bridge appeared on the horizon. I grabbed the CRT [Canal and River Trust] key and hopped ashore with Francine. This was not a powered swing bridge but a manual one, however. Francine and I shoved it round, paused as Juniper went by, then shoved it closed again.

DSCN6853 Floating obstructionPotential disaster struck: we came up behind another broad-beamer locking down and locking down very slowly, at that. The vessel was effectively being operated single-handed, its female crew member seemingly unable to help in any constructive way. Whilst knocking oneself out for another might seem over generous to some, I had a vested interest in helping this floating roadblock’s progress in order to speed our own as much as possible. I helped get him through before getting Juniper through.

The situation repeated itself at several more locks. “How much do you charge for this service?”, asked our unwelcome travelling companion, jovially. I smiled and threw into our conversation the information about a dinner reservation this evening for my wife’s birthday. “Oh, mustn’t miss that”, he said, continuing to impede our progress.

Mercifully at Slapton, just two locks before the Grove Lock, we rounded a corner to find the broad beamed boat mooring up for water. My double-locking would hopefully now be over, as would any further delays.

Time was running out so the ladies showered underway. Some straight cruising time remained so Franco also managed to grab a shower under way, although potentially two more sweat-inducing locks still remained. I say potentially because we need not necessarily go through Grove Lock itself, depending upon the availability of mooring above the lock.

As we approached our destination at the end of a rather fraught journey, two pairs of dinner friends, enrolled to help Francine celebrate her birthday, had wandered up the tow path to welcome us. The sight of them was very welcome and made our homecoming feel like returning after a round-the-world epic. At 6:30 PM we moored above Grove Lock for a pre-prandial glass of fizz and tension-releasing natter. Stopping short of Grove Lock, we’d actually done 25 locks in about 10 hours, including a lunch break, though I’d personally done four or five of those locks twice each courtesy of helping our obstruction make progress. I’ll claim 30 locks in one day. 😉

DSCN6873 The Grove LockA tough day was brilliantly rounded off by an excellent birthday meal shared with friends at the Grove Lock [another Fuller’s house, as you can see – told you a theme was developing].

Re-joining Juniper by clambering back over the lock gates in the dark was an interesting experience – good job we hadn’t had too much to drink. 🙂

Day 14 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

22-Lock Warm Up

Working ones way north up the Grand Union Canal from London involves a lot of locks. After a lazy day yesterday getting to the north-western side of Watford, today we were anticipating tackling 23 locks along the 11-mile stretch to Berkhamsted, where a civilized shopping opportunity (i.e. Waitrose) awaited us.

The morning began cool and overcast but Franco and Francine soon warmed by walking between and operating the first flurry of locks scattered at approximately half-mile intervals along the first five miles.

Interestingly, on leaving Watford we stopped hearing the tell-tale squeaking of any Ring-necked Parakeets. I had been fascinated to see just how far their range had expanded towards us and now I think I have my answer. Currently, my old home town of Watford in Hertfordshire seems to be as far as as they have spread in our direction towards Bedfordshire.

Progress was smooth given little in the way of other traffic and was particularly aided by several locks bearing CRT instructions to leave them empty, meaning they were already set in our favour. This seems like another good reason for doing the Thames Ring in the anticlockwise direction, the first being to travel with the flow of the River Thames.

DSCN6763 Francine working hardAs the day continued, so did the locks. The clouds, however, dissipated and the sun began shining on an ever warmer lock team of Franco and Francine. 24°C was anticipated and, combined with the physical labour, appeared to get too much for some.

2014-09-18 09.44.51 Canal wildlifeWith a few locks being spaced a little further apart so, our legs and arms beginning to notice their hitherto almost constant effort, Francine and I began hopping on and off Juniper to ride between our physical workouts. When more locks were grouped into flights, we reverted to walking between those. It’s surprising what you see alongside an English canal on foot – the parrots are nothing.

2014-09-18 10.44.44 Nash Mills marina2014-09-18 10.46.26 The Paper MillSkirting Hemel Hempstead the canal runs through Apsley Mills where we came across what I think is a fine example of canal-side redevelopment. On one side is a marina overlooked by attractive housing whilst on the other side was an delightfully presented Fuller’s bar/restaurant with very appealing canal-side external seating. What a welcoming atmosphere in which to while away an hour or two. Take note, Brackley.

After locking our way up beyond Apsley Mills, we needed our regular water stop and were bemused to find a CRT working barge moored so as to partially obstruct the water point. Brilliant! Capt. Virginia juggled Juniper’s bow in and rafted her stern off the working barge in such a way that Juniper’s water hose would just about reach when fully extended. Eureka, all was revealed! The very last six inches of the hose, until now hidden within the reel, was twisted and flattened. Small wonder that all our water stops had been taking getting on for an hour. We corrected it. What a shame we would have but one day left to benefit from our discovery.

With yet more locks in the offing we, of course, did not while away an hour or two but kept on to Berkhamsted (where, incidentally, we passed another similarly attractive and welcoming-looking canal-side Fuller’s bar/restaurant – a theme emerges). Finally, we ended our 11-mile trip to Berkhamsted having walked about 7 miles of it. Once in Berkhamsted, we found a very pleasant free mooring spot beside the park, though the mooring/no mooring sign had us confused until a man painting his double-wide barge cleared things up for us. Comfortable that we were parking legally, Juniper was securely moored and, with a weary Franco voting with his beer glass and dipping out, a raiding party was despatched to Waitrose to see what booty could be traded from the natives.

Our Berkhamsted mooring spot meant we stopped just short of what would have been our 23rd lock of the day. That means we’ll have an extra lock to do tomorrow to get to the Grove Lock in Leighton Buzzard. So, a day of just 25 more locks tomorrow, then. Arghhh!

Day 13 Map

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring