Meeting the Queen

Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, that is.

Getting on the road at 5:30 AM is not a new experience, though the older I get the less appealing such starts seem to get. Meeting a ship in port instead of an aircraft arrival at an airport would, however, be a new experience.

Given the the early hour, we plumped for the M25/M3 route down to Southampton. All went well, apart from a particularly odd Garmin routing decision which took us off a perfectly fine M3 onto the Winchester bypass (also fine), only to dump us back on the M3 at the junction with the A34. Odd. Also, for some weird reason, Sally Satnav chose to completely ignore the motorway which heads for the Southampton docks and pile us straight through the built up area. Odd again. Nonetheless, we arrived on the road beside Dock Gates 4 and 5 at about 8:00 AM.

Driving into the port was much calmer than arriving at a busy airport. There were several security guards directing us to the correct area and the short term car park where we could stare up at the Queen Mary 2 in all her regal glory.

QM2

Nothing felt busy, nothing felt rushed; all was very calm and peaceful. The curved roof in between the ship and the cars (above) is the terminal. We paid for our parking (£3 for up to 2 hours) and wandered in.

QM-TerminalThere’s not much to the inside of the terminal, really. The most critical piece of equipment was a Douwe Egberts coffee machine which produced a decent and very necessary espresso. Passengers, all 2650 of ‘em, seem to sort of drift off the ship at irregular intervals and at their leisure, as opposed to the frenetic, massed rush for the door, luggage conveyor belts and arrivals exit adopted by airline travellers. Much more civilized!

Having taken 8 days to cross the northern Atlantic, with a brief stop in Nova Scotia en route, our two passengers sort of drifted off at about 8:30 AM looking very calm and fresh and showing no signs of fatigue or ship lag. We sauntered back the short distance to our waiting car, loaded both our passengers and their luggage, and were back on the road just before 9:00 AM for our return journey.

Just before 9:00 AM constitutes rush hour. Once again, the blasted Garmin logic chose to ignore the purpose built motorway (wherever it is – I’ve never been to Southampton before) and stuffed us back on the very congested commuter roads of Southampton. Odd once again. These stupid devices are supposed to pick up traffic jam details but not for all traffic jams, it seems.

All was well and, following our new experience, we were back just before midday. This ship lark looks like a very pleasant way to travel – if you got the time and the money. 😉

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Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

An Adventure Approaches

On Saturday we begin a journey on the canals together with two American friends, let’s call them Captain and Mrs Virginia. Since connectivity on a canal boat is most likely to be sporadic, to say the least, I thought I’d try posting using email. So, here goes …

15 years ago, the four of us did a 1-week “there and back” canal trip – up the Grand Union Canal from Leighton Buzzard to Braunston Junction and back. Capt. Virginia heard about the possibility of doing “The Thames Ring”, a circular route consisting of the Grand Union Canal, the Oxford Canal and the River Thames. The trip is supposedly possible in two weeks but the Wyvern Shipping Company Ltd in Leighton Buzzard recommended a 2½-week rental to allow for more than just travelling full time. 15 years on, his trip has become reality.

Our first challenge begins tomorrow (Thursday) morning when we attempt to meet our fellow travellers disembarking the Queen Mary 2 at Ocean Terminal in the port of Southampton after their 8-day North Atlantic crossing – posh gits! Apparently, there is a short term car park near the terminal, all we have to do is find it.

Well, not quite all, perhaps. Assuming that goes well, the next thing we have to do is find two particular Americans amidst the other 3,000 folks also spilling off the renowned ship.

Oh, and we need to leave by about 5:30 AM to be there ready and waiting. 🙂

Posted in 2014 The Thames Ring

Another Visitor for Guillaume

When we rediscovered Norfolk last June, our primary goal being to search for the Norfolk Hawker/Green-eyed Hawker (Aeshna isosceles), we made our first visit to what we now refer to as Guillaume’s petit coin [Guillaume’s little corner]. We’d hardly installed ourselves before an immature example of our quarry came and hung-up in the hedge bordering Guillaume’s petit coin.

Guillaume’s petit coin has gone and done it again. This time, as we were staring wistfully out of a side window, a Migrant Hawker (Aeshna mixta) sniffed about the hedge, chose a spot and hung-up in it about three feet off the ground. It stayed while I extracted the camera.

J14_2058 Framed MigrantIn what has turned out to be a somewhat disturbed year from an Odo-watching point of view, this constitutes my first Hawker at rest. It was a female and access wasn’t great so I initially snagged a shot through a gap in the obscuring foliage. I quite like the framing effect of the out of focus leaves.

J14_2080 Flashed MigrantThen I tried to squirm round to get a clearer line up. As usual, I struggled with the lack of light before remembering to use my built-in flash. One day, I’ll think of using flash straight away!

Unlike last year’s Norfolk Hawker, this Migrant had been round the block. Her abdomen was slightly out of true and her left eye was very dented. I’m not sure what causes this but I did read somewhere that the pressure of the male’s anal appendages during copulation might be to blame.

Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Cloudy Skies

We started our day with a cycle ride to the nearby ruins of St Benet’s Abbey on the banks of the River Ant. Actually, the major ruins are part of the gate house to the abbey rather than of the abbey itself, of which just one small section of stone wall remains. There is, however, a fanciful drawing showing what the abbey “might have looked like”.

When we were up here last year, the gatehouse remains had been surrounded by particularly unsightly fencing and scaffolding, making a photograph of it a rather pointless exercise. Even Photoshop couldn’t have fixed that. We set off to look, despite expecting to see more of the same. Joy of joys, the scaffolding and fencing was all gone so Francine could finally get to grips with the ruins and developing disturbed sky.

_MG_5911

In the afternoon with a patch of brightness appearing, we made a return visit to the Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s reserve at Alderfen. The first thing we came across in the narrow country lanes leading towards the site was a “Road Closed – Access Only” sign. Fortunately, the road closed barriers were immediately after the track leading down to Alderfen so we made it. Less happily, the bright spell was very short lived and the overcast soon conquered the Norfolk skies again.

J14_2040 Ruddy DarterUndaunted, we made a circuit of the reserve seeing good numbers of Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna mixta) and Ruddy Darters (Sympetrum sanguineum), with a handful of other species in much lower numbers. Only the Ruddy Darters produced anything like a decent photo opportunity.

J14_2049 Swallowtail caterpillarOur most interesting find was a very colourful, thumping great big caterpillar. We first of all thought that this might be a caterpillar of the Emperor Moth (Saturnia pavonia), an example of which can be seen here. Our specimen seemed essentially similar in colour and pattern but our only diagram showed that Emperor Moth caterpillars have tufts of short bristles which our specimen lacked. Once we got to grips with our caterpillar reference volume, it turned out that this magnificent character was a Swallowtail Butterfly caterpillar (Papilio machaon). In the UK, the Swallowtail is one of Norfolk’s better known celebrities. Excellent!

Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Power Mad

So, here we are back in the land of windmills, though the old ones that dot the landscape of the Norfolk Broads are more correctly referred to as wind pumps, their primary purpose being to drain land of water. Norfolk being essentially flat, there is little to hinder any wind so there are, of course, some more modern wind turbines, designed to generate electricity, dotting the land- and seascapes.

Coincidentally, there was an interesting and relevant piece of writing by Christopher Booker in last Sunday’s Telegraph concerning the demolition of Didcot power station and the UK’s power policy. Since I cannot find an on-line reference, I’ll repeat the salient points here.

At the time when the plant’s German owners closed down Didcot A last year – having decided that it was not worth paying hundreds of millions of pounds to modify it to comply with an EU pollution directive – the 2,000 megawatts of electricity it was capable of supplying to the National Grid were only slightly less than the average total of 2,200 megawatts then being unreliably generated by all of Britain’s thousands of subsidised wind turbines put together.

Assuming the figures are true – staggering!

The first thing that made my jaw drop was the “German owners” bit. What on earth have we come to if we let our power generation systems be controlled by foreign interests, for Darwin’s sake? It’s one to address our lamentable shortfall by buying power from the French who, being much more sensible folks than us, invested in nuclear power stations which now create 80% of their output, an output which actually produces a surplus enabling them to sell it abroad. We, by contrast, generate too little to begin with and surrender control of what we do have to foreign interests. The UK has completely lost it!

In the blink of an eye, the foreign interests have lost us the entire output from all the wind turbines, most of them now blighting what used to be various tracts of our so-called “green and pleasant land”. I know Didcot and its cooling towers was never an attractive sight but a power station is a very localized eyesore and there aren’t that many of them. Wind generation risks becoming a national eyesore which will never kick out enough power. I actually think that an individual wind turbine is a reasonably attractive piece of engineering but that opinion changes when dozens of them are scattered across rolling green hills and pasture.

Not all our wind turbines blight the land, it has to be said. A strategy I find less offensive is the placing of wind turbines off the coast, out at sea. There is an example here just off Great Yarmouth. The delightfully named Scroby Sands is home to a wind farm of 20 turbines.

Francine has been training her camera on a few of them. The first is a straight shot, the second is a composite of five shots to get a bit more interest in the rotating turbine blades. The second also seems to do reasonable well in monochrome.

_MG_5806Merged

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Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Searching for a Subject

Norfolk shares much in common with the Netherlands; it’s flat, there’s a lot of water and there are quite a few old wind pumps (what most folks probably refer to as windmills) that were built to manage the water. The old wind pumps make a very atmospheric photographic subject which Francine is keen to try and exploit. Today being decidedly windy, too windy to make cycling an attractive proposition, we elected to drive around scouting out suitable subjects.

Finding a good subject is less easy than one might imagine. An OS map makes a good starting point ‘cos the wind pumps are marked. The first filtering process is one of access – can you get near enough, either by road or on foot? If you can get there by road, is there somewhere legal to park without causing an accident? The answer to either of these questions is disturbingly frequently, no.

The second filtering process involves condition; largely, are there sails attached? A sail-less wind pump does not make the most interesting picture. Unfortunately, they all look the same on an OS map, so we found ourselves approaching some of the wind pumps that made it through our first filter, only to find that they fell at the second hurdle because they had no sails.

Once you get through the above checks, you’re into checking situation, direction compared to the light, background and foreground, etc., to see if a good wind pump can make a good picture. Photographers are very difficult to please but we ended up thinking that Thurne wind pump might provide Francine’s best chance.

Since the wind pumps are beside waterways – they were positioned to pump water off the land and into a suitable water course – what you really need to gain good access to these things is a boat. We haven’t got one but there are thousands of pleasure boats plugging up and down the rivers linking the Norfolk Broads. Of course, that being the case, even once you’ve found a good wind pump to photograph, the likelihood is that some grockel will park an ugly fibreglass bath tub of a boat beside it and ruin your shot. One of the few traditional Norfolk wherries, such as the one below seen on the river Ant, would actually enhance the shot. A regular sailing boat would be perfectly acceptable. A fibreglass bath tub would be little short of a disaster.

Norfolk wherry

We did check out Little Ormesby Broad as a location and rejected it. We did, however bump into quite a few Odos flitting about the vegetation surrounding the car park and lining the path towards the broad. Here’s a not-quite-fully-red Ruddy Darter (Sympetrum sanguineum) and a Blue-tailed Damselfly (Ischnura elegans), just to brighten things a little more.

J14_2030 Ruddy DarterJ14_2034 Blue-tailed Damselfly

OK, we think we’ve got a photographic target. Now what we need is for us to remain sober enough to get out on an evening when the westering sun puts in an appearance. We wait with bated breath.

Posted in 2014 Norfolk

Guillaume’s Petit Coin

We’re back in Norfolk again, having rediscovered it last year. This is not our normal camping time of year, it being the height of Satan’s Little Disciple season. We should have been here just before the schools broke up and released the little darlings but family bereavement caused a delay. So, here we are trembling with fear but in search of some R&R.

The first time Guillaume pitched up in Norfolk, we lucked out and found a grass pitch in the far corner of the campsite. From our point of view, this seemed to be the most desirable pitch here, largely because:

  1. it was a grass pitch (as opposed to gravely hard-standing);
  2. it has only two neighbours, one of which is quite a distance away (great for we antisocial types);
  3. it is bordered by a very tall hedge on two sides offering a secluded seating area.

When Guillaume and I returned, sans Francine, for our male bonding trip in late September, I was both a little surprised and delighted that we lucked out again and found our favourite pitch empty once more. Guillaume immediately snagged it and was very comfortable.

On our way up today, I couldn’t believe that Guillaume’s petit coin [little corner] would be free in the height of the season but we crossed our fingers, hoped and set off. With dreadfully disruptive road works on the A11 causing chaos on the main route into Norfolk, I over-rode Sally Satnav and changed our route to skirt that area. We hit had a good journey and hit the A47 round Norwich a little further east. Not far enough further east as it turned out – we got stuck for 25 minutes in works designed to cause even more chaos at a junction on that road. More works that are going on for 72 weeks! Anyone stuck in both sets of road works, a quite likely occurrence, would have been spitting feathers.

Eventually we got through, arrived, albeit 30 minutes later than expected, and checked in. We learned that there is even worse traffic disruption approaching through Kings Lynn – a closed bridge. The planners seem to be determined to cut Norfolk off. However, joy of joys, Guillaume’s petit coin was once again free. We instantly got over our traffic frustration but I was decidedly bemused. Why, on three occasions, have we managed to find what we think of as the best pitch on site free? Hmm, here are a few potential contributing factors:

  1. this pitch is about as far away from les sanitaires as it’s possible to get (doesn’t bother us ‘cos we tend to use Guillaume’s facilities anyway);
  2. it is grass but a lot of folks seem, oddly, to prefer gravel these days;
  3. the tallest hedge. which this pitch is very close to, is to the south and a satellite dish has about as much chance of picking up a signal as there is of finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.

Whatever the reason, Guillaume is very happy once again.

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Posted in 2014 Norfolk

The Wind in the Windows

[Ah – literation!]

I actually quite enjoy long distance driving. Left to my own devices, I’ll keep going all day without much in the way of pauses, much to the annoyance of my female passengers. There is one thing about it that drives me mad, though – the tunes in my head.

In a half way decent climate it’s nice to drive along with my driver’s side window opened at least a crack. An open window is where the trouble starts. My brain always thinks it hears bizarre short, repetitive tunes in the rushing sound of the air. The tunes are generally not real tunes, just a short sequence of invented notes with a tone that suggests a certain instrument. When we left Bellebouche on Saturday, I spent the first 150kms or so listening to an imaginary blues riff played on a harmonica. A fuel stop provided me with some kind of relief and I spent the last 150kms listening to one of my more usual imaginary brass fanfares. The only off button is to stop. Imagine listening to Boy George for five hours and you’ll begin to understand my frustration. I can quite understand why folks who claim to hear voices in their heads can be driven completely mad.

We hit rain approaching Normandy, so I had to concentrate harder through my musical entertainment. We did managed to get set up in a respite, though. Our only agenda was a raid on the local shops for some booty to carry home – Ricard (pastis) and Père Magloire (Calvados) – and something for dinner.  We fancied our favourite platter of smoked fish from a small smoke-house in Tréport but sadly, the shop didn’t have any so we had to make up our own mixture. Poor show! Our substitute did a reasonable job washed down by a decent bottle of Pouilly Fumé but I do hope the real thing will reappear next time around.

Sunday morning soon descended into cloud, then light rain as we set off for Calais. Half way through the two hour journey the light rain had become a deluge the like of which I have never before driven through. The clouds were on the deck, the spray was intense and the rain was incessant. We spotted an accident which seemed to have involved a car attempting to do a skate-boarders rail-sliding trick along the Armco barrier, two wheels one side of the barrier, up in the air, and two the other side of the barrier, on the ground. The car rested at a rakish angle of about 30°, and this on a dead straight section of road. How does that happen?

Initially under some lesser rain, I spent the remaining 2 hours driving back from Dover listening to the National Anthem of the Ancient Britons, having mentally forced my irritating initial ear worm into something at least amusing.

We’re back home and I’m a gibbering wreck!

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Posted in 2014 France

A Tale of Two More Lacs

For once, we didn’t go through our usual “two days or three days to head north” debate as we approached time to leave Fanjeaux. With a combination of an almost dead lake and frequent winds, we both felt it was time for a change of scenery. A farewell committee of seven faithful camping regulars was dockside to hug us and wave us off as we hitch up Guillaume and set sail. After pausing up at the farm itself to bid adieu to our friendly hosts, Luc and Nadine, we were on the road and heading towards the Toulouse ring road by 8:30 AM.

Normalement, the clear blue skies over fields of tournesols [sunflowers] would have made us wish we were staying longer but we sailed along with only a light wind – and that in the helpful direction – with only light traffic. Leaving Fanjeaux frequently means fighting a strong headwind which makes for tiring driving with Guillaume on the back putting up a stern resistance. And where were all the trucks? Even the commercial traffic seemed light.

With the cruise control set at truck speed, we made good progress and it was clear we’d be able to cover sufficient ground for a stop of two nights somewhere en route north. A little more than half way up the centre of France and not too far from the autoroute lies a blissfully rural, wildlife-rich area called La Brenne, more formally the Parc Naturel régional de la Brenne, an old favourite of ours. There was little debate, though we tried to force one – two nights here would be just the ticket, especially as we’d be able to refresh our memories after our 2-year gap and do a bit of research for a potential dragonfly-spotting trip being mooted by our local natural history society. They seem to want my input! 😯

Our usual campsite at the Villages Vacances Nature beside the Etang de Bellebouche would be best described as adequate – the pitches were decent enough but the sanitary facilities had been particularly dated and tired. We went into the acceuil [reception] where I launched into my well practiced French to check in. “I’m English” said the delightful young girl who met us, “you can speak English if you like”. I sent Francine off to find our pitch, pocketed Miss Delightful’s numéro de téléphone [just kidding], paid up then dragged Guillaume after Francine.

Shock #1: this was 3rd July and, as we drove into the campsite itself, we spotted just two other units pitched up, one tent (British) and one caravan (French). I’d approached fully expecting the site to be relatively busy. Where was everyone?

Considering the enormous choice, Guillaume Francine picked a spot quite swiftly, though I did foolishly position Guillaume 1ft/30cms too far to the right and had to move him. 😀

A few changes had occurred during our two year gap. Though the tired/dated old sanitaires still existed on the campsite itself, a new block had been erected just outside the field. Why outside? We suspect it is primarily for those attending other events which are staged here, such as events hippiques [horse events]. We’re used to campsites claiming to have heated shower blocks but these had gone an extra kilometre – these were air-conditioned! Three camping units now on-site, 29°C outside, air-conditioning running inside … and the door was wide open. Terrific! The shower room looked more like a team changing room with a large space given over to bench seating and less space for the actual shower cubicles, of which there were 7 or 8, each of which was very tight on space. Worse, not one of the shower cubicles provided a single hook – there was nowhere to hang a towel or clothing other than over the cubicle door frame. Even more terrific!

Shock #2: worse changes (from my point of view) were soon revealed. For me, this site is historic in that it’s where I took my first ever dragonfly photo, many years ago, before my digital camera and before any interest obsession in dragonflies had developed. A few years ago when my obsession had developed, we discovered a couple of small fishing lakes behind the campsite that proved to be a rich in Odonata, getting us several firsts and a total species count of around 17. With the sun shining, we wandered off to make use of the ideal conditions. We gazed in horror at the first lake which was all but drained of water, with land plants growing on ground which two years ago had been under water. One corner contained sluice gates which must have been opened to drain this much. Whereas we used to disturb dragonflies and damselflies with every step taken, we now saw just a handful hanging on in the now meagre habitat.

Worse was yet to come. We continued to the second of these lakes to be faced by no water at all, just something resembling a large sand and gravel pit that was now home to a bulldozer rather than any dragonflies. I felt like weeping.

Being an intentional eradication of two habitats (for what purpose, we know not as yet), this feels worse than the accidental degradation of farmer Luc’s habitat at Fanjeaux which, given an improved management strategy, would doubtless recover. This will not, there are clearly plans afoot which mean it is gone forever.

There are said to be 1000 lakes in La Brenne – well, 998 now, I suppose – so in the big order of things this is probably not a tragedy. There is still very rich wildlife habitat in La Brenne. Due to our personal history here, however, it feels like a bit of a disaster at the moment.

Posted in 2014 France

Cruisin’ to Gruissan

Accepting that we aren’t quite there yet, one of the most notable features of the last three weeks of our trip has been some pretty persistent high winds. Our dear old friend the Jetstream has been playing games and is screaming across the Mediterranean, or so one website seems to say. Whether that’s the reason or not, we have been getting serious doses of Tramontane and whatever its easterly opposite number is called. Whilst yesterday evening was the calmest we can ever remember here at Fanjeaux – it was utterly blissful – this morning we are once again being battered from the east. We decided to head for the coast to Gruissan in search of a seafood lunch.

We are somewhat familiar with Gruissan, having visited it on a few previous occasions. we clearly have a little to learn, though, ‘cos it was essentially shut after we made the one hour/€7.70 autoroute trip to where it lies on the Mediterranean coast just below Narbonne-Plage. Previously, we’d eaten in a restaurant in town; it was closed today along with several others. Fortunately, our intended target this time was a seafood shack/restaurant on the Île St-Martin overlooking the Salin de St. Martin. We breathed a small sigh of relief as we found this was actually open.

Walking towards the restaurant past the menu, which would normally have been our primary interest, our attention could not help but be grabbed by the surreal sight before us. Check out the picture.

_MG_5578

_MG_5594Your eyes do not deceive you and we haven’t been messing with the colour balance, the water really is pink. This is the Salin de St. Martin, a large salt pan from which the water evaporates and concentrates the salt. For some reason, this turns the water pink. Fabulous!

After several “ooh ers”, we managed to drag ourselves back to the task in hand, ordering some lunch. The restaurant specializes in seafood, much of which is normally enjoyed raw, but it we momentarily toyed with one of its other speciality choices cooked in a salt crust. Well, with all that pink water making mountains of the stuff outside the door, I suppose it’s a natural item to put on the menu. We’ve never actually tried anything with a salt crust but ultimately we couldn’t resist a good old plateau de fruits de mer.

_MG_5583Aided by a bottle of white wine, we managed to see off 8 oysters, 8 mussels (raw), 8 prawns, 12 whelks and a mega-crab, and very excellent it was, too. I’m afraid this is all that’s left.

_MG_5591The very casual atmosphere at this informal restaurant shack was far more enjoyable to us than any pretention in a more formal restaurant. I, for one, would much rather spend my money here. This was certainly the best value plateau de fruits de mer that we have seen anywhere in France, despite the €15 tolls to get there and back, and it certainly beat the one we had earlier in our trip at Maussane-les-Alpilles. Darwin, that seems like a long time ago!

Posted in 2014 France