There’s that warning phrase again, National Park.

Paklenica National Park covers the area of torrent flows of Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica, and their distinctive canyons carved vertically into the south slopes of Velebit Mountains and the broader surrounding area.

As we were gathering by our minibus prior to heading for the warning phrase, Milan had been up to his usual tricks capturing creatures. He arrived with a species of Glass Lizard which he’d found basking to warm up in the morning sun over the road. Looking more like a snake, this is actually a legless lizard, like a large cousin of our native Slow Worm. Legless it may be but penis-less it ain’t; it’s got two. This is called a hemipenis  and is normal in snakes and lizards, a.k.a. squamata. There, now don’t say I don’t try to educate you. 😉 Here’s Francine admiring both which have become erectile with excitement – well, OK, with nervous reaction to being handled.

The distinctive canyons for which we headed today were a magnet for a very particular type of public, the rock climbing public, which I suppose might be referred to as the Joe Brown Public. The lower part of the canyon was strewn with them, along with their ropes and carabiners. Whilst I’ve never really seen the enjoyment of crawling around in potholes underground, I can entirely understand the desire to climb. There is, after all, a decent vista on offer after the adrenaline rush. Apart from anything else, seeing someone clinging to an apparently impossible surface is decidedly impressive. We even saw 2/3-year-old children, roped and helmeted, fearlessly getting in on the act with (presumably) their parents. Great!

National Park; another entrance fee; Milan paid; we parked to begin our walk up the canyon. I wasn’t expecting to see any Odonata going up a canyon but the bird life began well with Alpine Swifts (Apus melba) peeping way above our heads. The Alpine swift is noticeably larger than our summer visitor and has some white on it. Francine and I had first seen mixed groups of swifts wheeling around together in Corfu.

Butterfly action was good. too, with well-posed specimens of both Small Skipper () and Essex Skipper () – well-posed, that is, to demonstrate the difference between the two, the Essex Skipper having a dark underside to its antennae, as though they’ve been pressed onto an ink pad. With butterflies on what was a very pleasant walk, I was quite content. Cicadas were chirping constantly, too, and I never tire of hearing those.

There were several reptiles and amphibians which slowed our upward progress, too – after all, that’ was why we were there – for those with a herpetological interest. The most impressive of these, which also delayed several passers by, most of whom displayed the expected scared reaction to a snake, especially a poisonous one, was a Horn-nosed Viper (Vipera ammodytes). I think this picture will demonstrate where it gets its name from. 😉

On the way up we paused at a cafe and Francine did spot a dragonfly cruising above the inevitable stream in the floor of the canyon, but it wasn’t hanging around and we could only guess at some species of Goldenring (there would be two possibilities, here).

Once at our top – you can go further given more time – there was another cafe where we paused for lunch. Lunch entertainment included spotting a Glis glis [Edible Doormouse] in the cafe’s barn but it soon hid. Waiting in futile hope of its reappearance, I was swiftly and briefly flown around by a large, distinctively marked butterfly – I’d seen the topside markings quite clearly – which turned out to be a Two-tailed Pasha (Charaxes jasius) but sadly that, too, pulled off a very swift disappearing act. As a very decent consolation prize, a Woodland Grayling (Hipparchia fagi), only my second encounter with one, did pose on a bright white piece of climbing rope, making exposure something of a challenge. Bless post-processing!

The way down was naturally swifter but we did spot one of those many Cicadas that was nicely posed for photography on a low, accessible stem.

Being a canny chap, Milan wanted to pause by the lower reaches of the river flowing from the canyon so his Odo-nutter could check for dragonflies, not that I was unhappy with my butterfly haul. Find a stream we did and there was at least one species of Odo in residence; we spotted a couple of Southern Skimmers (Orthetrum brunneum). The only down side was that I had to remove my walking boots and socks and hobble across the stony-bottomed river to get a decent shot. Worth it, though. Our river stop was especially worthwhile ‘cos we found another couple of excellent butterflies including Southern Comma (Polygonia egea), which eluded my camera, Meleager’s Blue (Meleageria daphnis), with its distinctively scalloped hind-wing, and the diminutive and utterly enchanting Little Tiger Blue (Tarucus balkanicus), which, given its very limited distribution, must’ve been our star find, here.

Some of these national parks aren’t so bad, after all.

Today we headed out of Slovenia and into Croatia for the first time.Our first stop was to be Plitvice Lakes, “declared a National Park in 1949” [the blurb said].

A new Country is always quite exciting. This really did feel like a new country because we actually drove through a border control with barriers and armed guards to whom Milan, our guide, had to show our passports. We didn’t get a stamp, though. We were also swapping our familiar Euros (used in Slovenia) for the Kuna of Croatia. The exchange rate on my beer money is pretty easy to deal with being about 10:1 [Kuna:Pounds]. Also, I don’t have to learn a new word for beer, which remains pivo, even though Croatian differs somewhat from Slovene, according to our guide, Milan, who, of course, speaks both.

I’m forming the opinion that it’s not only the language that differs somewhat. The other thing that differs somewhat is my mental expectations of destinations on a “Wildlife Tour” compared to the reality of some of those planned by Ecotours, in this instance. The reality of Plitvice Lakes began to dawn in our minibus when, nattering to Milan in the front passenger seat, he expressed the opinion that this destination would not have featured on his hit list. Hmmm? Milan, I should explain, is an independent ecologist contracted by Ecotours as our guide. Reality rose higher in the sky as our minibus turned into a large barrier controlled car park for the second day. Again, we went through ticket controlled entry with further hordes of humanity. I’m used to Yosemite being crowded in the States, though, so perhaps it’s my expectations of a National Park that need adjusting. Here’s the alarm bell small print about these lakes.

… is situated between high forested mountains in which lies, one below another, a string of sixteen beautiful lakes and tarns of crystal blue-green colour. They are fed by many small streams and brooks and spill into each other in foaming cascades and thundering waterfalls.

There’s your Joe Public magnet. The development for Joe Public was extensive and a verging on the Disney-esque, featuring miles of well-constructed boardwalks to get us out along our route, complete with queues to get onto electric boat rides followed by Mercedes-powered road trains to bring us most of the way back. The remainder of the return journey was left to Shanks’s Pony. Every metre of the boardwalk seemed to be taken up by the constantly streaming hordes of Joe Public whose idea of wildlife stopped at Mallard. Nonetheless, it was quite pretty in the fine weather. 🙂 We set out along the boardwalk.

With all this “crystal blue-green” water, there were dragonflies, so all was not lost. However, with the tens of thousands of tramping feet marching past on the boardwalk while one tried to snag a picture with a long lens atop a monopod, photographing them was rarely easy. Borrowing a popular term from the wider wildlife-spotting community, though, I was utterly thrilled to get my first “lifer” for some time. There, perched on a reed in a relatively accessible, albeit slightly more distant than I’d have liked (~3m away) position, was what I initially took to be a Brilliant Emerald (Somatochlora metallica). I excitedly snagged a couple of shots with the naked 400mm lens, then tried to add the 1.4X extender to bring it closer. Alas, it took flight before I was again ready but at least I had something. Brilliant Emerald was what I suspected we’d seen on day #1, constantly flying at Lake Bohinj. Subsequent later inspection of this individual, though, convinced me that this was an even greater prize (greater because Brilliant Emeralds occur at home), a Balkan Emerald (Somatochlora meridionalis).

Despite Joe Public, I got up to about 10 species of Odonata, including the always impressive Green-eyed Hooktail/Small Pincertail (Onychogomphus forcipatus), one of which posed fortuitously, so, a reasonable haul really.

I was not the only one less than overjoyed with our overly touristic venue; our butterfly enthusiast was also feeling like a fish out of “crystal blue-green” water. He did find some quarry at our lunch break with tables, bench seats, loos, cafeterias, gift shops, grass and trees, though. Our birder was also getting excited about a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor) flitting between the trees. So, not all bad, then. 😉

Escaping Joe Public and the national park, we continued our journey to our new Croatian accommodation. Somewhat frustratingly, since entering Croatia we’d been driving straight past numerous very inviting, extensively flower-strewn meadows that were clearly an absolute haven for wildlife. We’d also been driving through numerous war-torn Croatian villages, their buildings scarred by bullet marks and roofs missing sections from bombs or artillery shells. Frequently, the villages had field cemeteries nearby. It served as a stark reminder of recent European history, a reminder that reinforced our group’s collective disappointment at the UK’s (United?) EU referendum result that had been announced on the morning of our departure. If only we could escape from that Joe Public. Dream on!

Anyway, on a brighter note, Milan and Janos did find us another flower-strewn meadow to go hunting real wildlife. I joined forces with Mr. Butterfly and was extremely happy to find an artistically posed mating pair of Black-veined Whites (Aporia crataegi). A shot of a collection of hands, all holding different 6-legged critters, might serve do demonstrate the fun we were now all now having.

Our accommodation and pivo supplies for the remainder of our Croatian visit would be at Starigrad Paklenica.

I was seriously disappointed with our morning. We were heading for the Postojna cave, which is one of very few homes to Olms (Proteus anguinus), fully aquatic, blind, pink, cave salamanders existing only on the Dalmatian coast. Their colour leads to these bizarre little animals also being referred to as the ‘human fish’. On the surface on it, that sounded quite exciting and I had been looking forward. Slowly, however, the horrible truth began to sink in. What I had not realized or been prepared for was:

The Postojna cave is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the best known cave in the World. A fantastic web of tunnels, passages, galleries and halls, the astonishing diversity of Karst features as well as easy access are certainly the main reasons for such popularity of the cave and a large number of visitors, which has already reached 35 million in 200 years.

Perhaps naïvely, I’d been expecting a small, insignificant cave in the countryside with just our group in it.The distressing truth became abundantly apparent as we drove into a huge car park equipped with special spaces for large coaches, one of which was borrowed by our small minibus. It was seething with people of all races, who, after purchasing their 25€ tickets for their timed entrance slot – shades of the Alhambra Palace, here – assembled under flags representing their nation to be guided in their tongue. Milan bought our tickets – grateful for small mercies – and we eventually joined our time slot. Naturally, English was by far the largest group.

OK, the clattering electric train ride was moderately enjoyable but, honestly, once you’ve seen one stalactite/stalagmite, you’ve seen ‘em all. The guide did a reasonable job as we were led around seemingly endless parades of chambers featuring yet more stalac/g-thingies but the plain truth is that I find matters geological stultifyingly boring. All I really wanted to see was the Olms. Finally we got to the end of our underground tour and, just to add insult to injury, a few Olms were on display in a modestly sized, very dark aquarium, for Darwin’s sake. Each side of the square aquarium could accommodate about 6 people at a time and there were about 100 of us. This is not what I call wildlife.

We clattered back out before lunch time, much to my relief.

The morning thus wasted, our main event of the day would begin at about 4:00 PM. That gave us time to revisit yesterday’s karst lake in today’s sunshine. Better, there are reportedly 30 species of Odo there, after all. I began to recover.

We arrived in what was, indeed, much better weather conditions. This is what it really should look like. The dragonflies and butterflies thought so, too, and activity was brisk. At last I saw a few species that I couldn’t see back at home, the most cooperative of which was a White-tailed Skimmer (Orthetrum albistylum). Less cooperative were Lesser Emperors (Anax parthenope), which did not pose for the paparazzi, and a Green-eyed Hawker, a.k.a. Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isoceles) which did but only for an id shot.

And so to the potentially main event of the day, possibly the trip: Brown Bears (Ursos arctos). Our group had booked an optional extra evening visit to a forest where these magnificent creatures live in the wild. These are not in a reserve, they live in the woods. The guy who ran our guest house has several hides erected in various parts of the forest and puts food out to attract the bears. All fine and dandy except that, I was told that I would have to sit still and silently in a hide for five hours. Yikes, that’s 300 minutes! I can’t sit still for five minutes, far less 300. I was concerned. I was so concerned that I very nearly dipped out, not just for my own comfort but I didn’t want to be responsible for spoiling it for any companions. I was, in this respect, not looking forward to it. Sense prevailed, though; I couldn’t pass up this opportunity of a lifetime; I girded my loins and clambered into the car. The car was a Nissan pickup with its back filled with boxes of tripe and corn. Tripe is, I was told, cheap and irresistible to bears.

Francine and I had volunteered to go to a hide that required climbing into up a 5m ladder. Our companions were taken to various other areas. After climbing up the ladder to our hide with gusto and pole-axing myself on the top of the door frame at the top, we took our seats and settled down. Camera ports, complete with bean bags were provided. Blankets were also provided, as was a pillow. Our host scattered corn for the bears. After about 30 minutes of watching a family of Jays (Garrulus glandarius), five strong, scavenging the bear food. A young Greater-spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) joined in. After about 30 minutes of no further activity, Mr. Fidgety assumed the foetal position and put the pillow to good use.

A hand shook my drowsy shoulder while an accompanying voice whispered the unbelievable phrase, “there’s two cubs”.Don’t panic Mr Mainwaring! I arose as gently as I could and we stared out of the window of the hide. Sure enough, a mother bear had arrived at our feeding station with her two cubs in tow and they were an absolute delight. We scrambled as quietly as we could to focal length, now we could gauge the size of the target, and adjust bean bags so we could bring cameras to bear on them [pun intended – chortle]. As a swift précis, the mother and cubs moved around three scatterings of food and entertained us for 90 minutes. We couldn’t believe our luck. Eventually she led her cubs away but seemed to stare at our hide as she passed; we’re sure she knew we were there.

Well, surely that was that. No, it wasn’t. I was about to assume the position once again for the remaining couple of hours or so, when a larger, presumably male bear arrived  He began chomping and we resumed clicking. A fifth approached from another direction but seemed to be further down the pecking order and beat a relatively swift retreat. Finally a sixth bear turned up and began to confront the fourth, which was still in front of our hide. Growls ensued and we thought we were in for some fireworks but they seemed to work it out and settle down sharing the space together. This last bear looked effectively bald on his lower half – curious.

Bears #4 and #6 were still there when, at 9:00 PM, we heard a knock on our hide door. Yikes, another bear has climbed the ladder! Nah, we were just being rescued. Francine, who had been taking notes, opened the door to greet our host and explain all that had happened as his face lit up. The two remaining, very large bears scarpered.

What an evening! That was about the shortest five hours I’ve ever spent, I think. Our host was almost as excited as we were when we reported our luck; the previous time this hide had been used, nothing turned up. One set of our companions had seen two bears but the others regrettably had seen nothing; we put this down to the constant buzzing of a chainsaw nearby. Duh! We, however, had very unusually it the jackpot. At our late dinner – we were starving – our host was anxious to see our pictures, occasionally muttering, “wow”.

Today we were supposed to be heading into some high ground again but our guide, MIlan, had been keeping his weather-eye on the forecast – well, that’s a good place for it – and suggested a change of plan. The high ground was once again supposed to be attracting weather so we all agreed to switch a couple of days and head for some more settled, lower ground. The lower ground in question was described as a karst lake called Cerkniško jezero. Jezero = lake, in Slovene, so we were heading for Lake Cerkniško, though in English it seems to be more often called Lake Cerknica.

While we’re at it, since Cerkniško contains one of those little š characters [referred to as s-roof], a word or three on Slovene pronunciation. The roof is roughly like putting an h after the letter in English. Thus š is like sh. the roof can feature on c, s, and z. Extrapolating from š makes č quite easy; it’s pronounced ch. Ž is a little more problematic ‘cos we don’t do zh. The town of Žužemberk is a classic example used to trap foreigners, though apparently I passed with flying colours: ž is pronounced like the s in vision. One final wrinkle: a c (with no roof) is like a ts (Germans should have no trouble with that), so Cerkniško is pronounced ts-air-nish-ko. I’m glad we got that cleared up. 😉

What an educational day. Lake Cerkniško is apparently a karst lake. Oh help, here we go again. Never having done geography I had no idea what the hell karst meant; in fact, i thought it might be related to cast as in open cast mining. Not so, Mr. Dumbo. Borrowing from good ol’ Wikipedia, a karst landscape …

… is a landscape formed from the dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone, dolomite, and gypsum. It is characterized by underground drainage systems with sinkholes and caves.

Lake Cerkniško is a seasonal lake and there was plenty of water left. This shot obviously isn’t the lake itself, it’s one of the rivers connected to it, but it’ll give you an idea of the landscape … and the weather. Whilst it wasn’t actually raining when we arrived, the day was noticeably overcast so not great for hunting Odos. We did find a handful, though in the form of Azure Damselfly (Coenagrion puella), White-legged Damselfly (Platycnemis pennipes) and a few more photographically aware examples of Emerald Damelfly (Lestes sponsa). Milan also used his trapping skills to grab a single Ruddy Darter (Sympetrum sanguineum) in his hand. They were all a tad drowsy. So, nothing I couldn’t readily see in the UK, then.

Birds are, perhaps, a little less susceptible to the vagaries of weather – we regularly have a Blackcap at home that sings in the rain keeping his territory safe – and our birding folks were very happy to hear, though not actually see, a Corncrake at the site. We had also driven past the nest of a family of White Storks en route – we were told it was the only such nest actually on a chimney, as opposed to a platform, in Slovenia [apologies for crap picture] – so perhaps the White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) visiting one of the fields beside our river was associated with that nest.

If we can cope with another learning point, here it is. Actually, there’re two things to point out here. Good ol’ Milan was off doing what he does best, catching reptiles. He has some specially constructed hardware to help with the task. He came back with a Grass Sake (Natrix natrix) in a bag. One lesson is that the way the snake’s eyes looked indicated that this individual was “pre-slough”, i.e. getting ready to shed its skin. The other lesson is that if messed around with too much, the snake lies motionless with its jaw agape (and maybe dislocated?) feigning death, in the hope that its attacker will loose interest and leave it alone. Fear not, this character was perfectly healthy and jumped back to life again (if a snake can be said to jump). Milan replaced it where he found it.

Eventually it was time to move on to our guest house accommodation for a bear watching extravaganza tomorrow. Whilst enjoying a pivo on our balcony, though, I was quite excited to see and snag a photograph of my first Linnet (Carduelis cannabina). Easily pleased, some folks. Linnets are not rare as such but, though we enjoy lots of bird species in our garden at home, Linnets aren’t amongst them and I’ve personally not had a chance to see and snag one before. A decent end to a rather unsettled day, weather-wise.

Day 3 on the itinerary [day 2 of doing anything wildlife oriented] and we were off to the mountains. To be precise, we were off to Mount Mangart in the Julian Alps. Our route was an interesting one since it involved crossing from Slovenia into Italy and then back into Slovenia again. We’d already become quite fond of Slovenia. Entering Italy, things seemed to appear a little more run down – perhaps this is a slightly depressed corner of Italy. Mind you, Italy doesn’t really do it for me. The driving became noticeably more Italian, too. 😉

Mountains have a bit of a problem wrapped up in their majesty – they frequently attract weather and, when they aren’t attracting weather, they tend to be making weather of their own. Somewhat predictably, we arrived at the Mangart pass, 2070m above sea level, in the rain. Tea/coffee break was declared while we donned over-trousers and waterproofs. Actually it wasn’t too bad, just a bit irritating, and it did ease off after not too long. By this time someone had found a Frog Orchid (Coeloglossum viride) so Francine’s day was off to a good start.

I began to see something of what Milan had referred to yesterday with botanists making very slow progress. It felt as though our plant fans were going over the alpine pasture with a fine-toothed comb. Why not, though? Their painstaking search threw up another celebrity in the form of a Red Vanilla Orchid (Nigritella rubra) resulting in further excitement and this ever more familiar bums-in-the-air posture. Well, it beats lying on a beach getting bored.

This was always going to be a day for the birders and their most exciting moment was a magnificent Golden Eagle drifting across between two of the mountain peaks. It was a great demonstration of an old wildlife photography adage, too: “you can’t have too much lens when it comes to birds”. There’s another good old wildlife photography adage, too: “whatever lens you have mounted, it’ll be the wrong one for the next opportunity”. With these unbreakable rules in mind, here’s a picture of a Snowfinch (Montifringilla nivalis) instead. 😀 It was about the only bird species that came anything like close, though there were Alpine Choughs occasionally looking for food from the tourists.

The irritation rain eased off and, indeed, bright spells appeared. Now, for the most part, I was content to enjoy the alpine scenery and be guided by our butterfly specialist in search of a Mountain Green-veined White (Artogeia bryoniae). Find ‘em, we did – here’s a male and female.

Insect fans can spend about as much time searching for critters in an alpine meadow as botanists can plants. We did. Eventually, though, we began making our way back down to the ever patient driver, Janos, though not without a serious pause at a pile of boulders where we spotted a family of wild Alpine Marmots (Marmota marmot). The birders were equally distracted by a couple of Ring Ouzels (Turdus toquatus), once again too distant for anything resembling a worthwhile shot. A little bit of stealth and patience got a picture or two of a Marmot, though.

Eventually we re-joined Janos to make our way back through Italy before re-entering Slovenia. There was one more important pause, though. A coiuple of our number were reptile and amphibian specialists and there was one wall that was home to a particularly rare lizard, Horvath’s Rock Lizard (Iberolacerta horvathi), which they were, of course, keen to see and which Milan was keen to use to demonstrate his trapping skills. I could understand their excitement. Here is the little celebrity.

Pivo, pivo!

Yesterday we had an excellently timed flight (12:55 PM take off) from Stansted lasting about two hours to Ljubljana. A couple of firsts: first flight for me from Stansted and certainly my first time in Slovenia. The timing made our departure from home and the journey to Stansted very civilized. Ljubljana airport is a delight – very quiet – the way things used to be before the planet got too many people with too much money. Whilst this was a mixed wildlife tour organized by Ecotours, I was looking forward to seeing two new countries. We were met by our guide, Milan [Slovenian], and driver, Janos [Hungarian, pronounced Janosh], who took us to our first 3-night stop in a charming hotel close to Lake Bohinj [pronounced Bo-heen – the “j” is silent]. With different native languages, Milan and Janos spoke English to each other. My most important learning point on arrival at our hotel was that pivo is Slovene for beer. A couple were necessary and, bless them, large beers cost 2.60€ whereas a small beers are 2.30€ – a curious pricing policy.

Francine and I had wandered down to get a glimpse of Lake Bohinj yesterday evening but this morning our itinerary took us for a wander along its northern shore in daylight. As you can see from a couple of Francine landscape efforts (notice the fish in the crystal clear water – right), its a delightful location. I was a little surprised to note that Slovenia bore more than a passing resemblance to Austria, until I realized that it borders Austria and was once part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Duh! Educational, these wildlife tours. 😉

Our group has a good mix of interests, one concentrating on birds, another on butterflies, myself on Odos and Francine had botanical buddies. Milan delighted in telling us that he’d been with a bunch of botanists and managed to cover only about 100m in three hours ‘cos they stopped at every plant for a minute examination. Fortunately we made considerably better progress.

As you can see, Lake Bohinj is big water with little in the way of emergent vegetation so I wasn’t expecting much in the way of Odonata. Excitement was briefly heightened when we spotted a darter in a patch of vegetation a few metres from the lake and Milan suggested it might be a Vagrant Darter/Moustached Darter (Sympetrum vulgatum). That would’ve been a new species for me but it turned out to be a female Red-veined Darter (Sympetrum fonscolonmbii). We also spotted several White-legged Damselflies (Platycnemis pennipes) and, somewhat frustratingly, we were overflown by several bright green dragonflies that were most likely either Brilliant Emeralds (Somatochlora metallica) or Balkan Emeralds (Somatochlora meridionalis), either of which would’ve been a new catch for me but we’ll never know ‘cost they flew tirelessly and never settled.

After lunch organized by Janos around our minibus, the afternoon took us to Pokljuka plateau, a forested karst plateau around between 1100 and 1400 metres altitude. It wasn’t an area for Odos but there were some flower meadows as well as mossy bogs, and these produced a butterfly highlight when one of our group spotted a freshly emerged Clouded Apollo (Parnassius mnemosyne). Being a new species for me, I spent some time with that. 🙂 Notice that the tips of the forewings are translucent.

As well as the meadows containing quite a bit of the relatively rare Golden Hawkesbeard (Crepis aurea), Francine had considerable fun with the flora up here with Bearded Bellflower (Campanula barbata), Small White Orchid (Pseudorchis albida) and White False Helleborine (Veratrum album) being added to her collection.

During our driving around, we’d been intrigued by structures that turned out to be traditional Slovenian hay drying racks. So, despite a number of our throats screaming out for some more Slovenian pivo, on the way down from Pokljuka plateau, we encouraged our tireless driver, Janos, to stop beside some examples containing hay for some photo opportunities. A couple of designs were on offer, from a simple single thickness rack to two racks joined by a roof to double up as a barn. The barn style photo shows the contrasting less romantic modern plastic-wrapped rolls, as well.

All in all, an enjoyable start in an enjoyable country. Now, that pivo …